_shel_ny
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Everything posted by _shel_ny
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More info may be needed. Is the battery installed pos, or neg ground? Was the car changed to neg ground, or was the battery just installed wrong? Hopefully someone will chime in to tell you how the coil should be connected for each. (pos, or neg) or you can search Things on the car will work. They don't care how the battery is connected.
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This may help
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Great suggestion. I agree. If the choke is full open before starting, is is going to be full open as soon as the engine starts.
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The solenoid only functions during starting when voltage is applied via the wire from the starter.
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Do you still have a problem when the engine has heated up? At that point the sisson choke is pretty much out of the mix, as the spring is relaxed.
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And you did remember to put the gasket in?
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Was the sisson choke complete? Bi-metallic spring in the base? Spring properly connecting to the part that moves the arm? When the manifold is not hot enough to relax the bi-metallic spring it should not let the choke valve assembly in the carb open all the way. Electric portion for starting. Bi-metallic portion after start, and also controls the amount of closure once the warm up starts, as in when the engine is hot, the electric portion no longer completely closes the choke valve assy. in the carb all the way.
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If you do not have the "boss". Add a replaceable element type,or http://p15-d24.com/topic/35616-new-guyremote-oil-filter/?hl=spin#entry363396 or http://p15-d24.com/topic/35810-embarrasing-question-how-do-i-change-this-oil-filter/
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The large slotted part slides behind the nut on the manifold. Loosen nut, slide in, re-torque to 15-20 in. lb. The end that is directly over the fuel pump uses a stud, or post. It threads into the fuel pump, and extends up through the shield, and is held by a wing nut. EDIT: the thread is likely 10-32. and the overall length of the post would be about 2 3/4". That is not critical, as the threads can extend up, and not cause a problem. A screw, or all thread with nuts doubled as stop nuts will allow for positioning, could be used in lieu of the factory post. An original post would have had about 1/2" of threads at the pump end (pretty much like the screws that hold the pump together), and about 5/16" of threads on the top. Check the thread size on your pump before screwing anything new into the hole. Edit 2: That pic may not be entirely correct. (not my engine) I believe that the washer in that position is supposed to be coned, and the heat shield would just slide in under the nut, and not under the washer.
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OK, I now understand Takes a while sometimes. Referring to it as a DeSoto flange, and a Dodge flange confused me. I thought some additional part was being referenced. As I listed in post 25, my book shows: Hub 677540 was the same D 37-54 P 42-49 C 38-54 DS 38-54 for vehicles without A/C or power steering The DeSoto "hub" is the same as the Dodge "hub", so it should fit a 230 crank without difficulty.
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Guess I am still confused. There is a hub. There is a pulley. There is a damper.
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Flange ?
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My assistant was a board. Fit between the seat, and the pedal.Held the pedal down as I bled each wheel cylinder. It was co-operative. Always did what it was told to do within the limited scope of its abilities.
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952068 P 42-54 W/ STND TRANS; D 34-40 Edit: 868929 http://p15-d24.com/topic/34145-1950-218-w230-crankshaft-1939-201-bh-r7-od/page-2 page 14, page 16: http://www.enginepartswarehouse.com/enginecatalog/CHRYSLER-DODGE.PDF
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Original nuts were brass, or some such material. When I have removed them at a salvage yard I have split them with a chisel to avoid breaking the stud. Moto tool with a cutting wheel in my garage.
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Pretty sure they were threaded in. You may be able to see where they were if you sand or wire brush the area vigorously. If found, you could then tap, or braze on new studs. The exact positioning is not that critical. The solenoid (sisson choke) grounds through the stud. EDIT: reduce pic size
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If it is possible, a load leveler will be a must.
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Hub 677540 was the same D 37-54 P 42-49 C 38-54 DS 38-54 for vehicles without A/C or power steering Damper #'s were numerous, but book shows damper with pulley # 869431 42-49 ply, 37-42 dod, Lower pulley 633735 Dodge 36-50 (early), Plym 32-50(early) 677541 MOST P 32-50; MOST D 36-50; MOST DS, C 38-50
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1-7/8" collectorsautosupply will sell you a used one for $20 + ship
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Bolts could be longer. Lots of room behind the mounting area.
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3/8-16 X 3/4 to maybe 1"
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Greg has given you directions to access the fluid drive coupling to check the fluid level. If the car moves as it should, that level is probably OK. Sounds like good advice from Greg, and Merle for a starting point. To check the lube in the transmission itself my pic shows the fill, and drain plugs. Your manual will specify what lube to use.
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I will get some pics and measurements this afternoon. Did not want to pull stuff out if it would not help. I'm sure we can work something out.
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Try fat fendered relics or highpockets58 on ebay. He just parted a 46 Edit: see next post
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I could do some measurements, but the one I have would be a 41-54 fork. Let me know if that would be any help. Sort of buried in the shed right now.
