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This may help. http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/012A/cover.htm

Some possible areas to check. Edit: note- item 18 b. is referring to the transmission itself, and not the fluid coupling accessed through the floor. Edit 2: The info shown is for the M6 transmission. Your M5 may follow the same basic principals.

Check the rear axle vent bolt to b sure it is not plugged up. If the vent bolt is plugged it can cause an axle seal to leak. Edit: That is if the '41 has one.

That would indeed be a cow bell. Propeller on the back. Duck head on the bumper. Don't know what on the radiator. Had an operational oogah horn that was sounded after hitting the highway upon departure.

Had a Ford visit my yard sale today. pics for those who enjoy a classic even if it isn't a MoPaR EDIT: they were on a beer run.

Would expect the it is just a "tanks inc" tank with a middle man in the flow.

OP has spark at the plugs with them laying on the engine Says he has good spark, so points are opening and closing Says he has good spark, so coil appears to be good, condenser appears to be good, and no shorting in the distributor

I would have to reread, which I did a couple of times, but I think the stalling, and performance problems were before new stuff went into the dizzy, and before, or along with the flooding problems

Intermittent sticky valve ?

OP has spark at the plugs with them laying on the engine.

This thread should explain it all. Has some photos of heads, pumps, and backing plates. http://p15-d24.com/topic/5866-water-pumps/?hl=%2Bbacking+%2Bplate#entry342039

Do you know if your engine is internal bypass, or external bypass for the cooling system. Internal will have the extra little bump on the head, and the block, near the water pump. Not that it is a big deal. The backing plates on the pumps will be different to accommodate the water flow, and can be swapped old to new if needed. Does yours have the bypass elbow on top of the pump with a short hose going straight to the thermostat housing? That would be external bypass. Additionally, there should be some date coding on the block that will give you an idea of the year of the engine. NAPA lists two pump: Reman for $63 # WP 58458 New for $64.80 # TFW 42554 Both have the same pic of the backing plate, but the 58458 list vehicles mostly 1951 and on which would be the internal bypass. Rock Auto lists a new Cardone for about $49

Not humor me in the sense that it is funny, but in the sense that it is a possibility and will remover that possibility. It seems that there is more than one problem. Part of which is solved - - -the flooding. My thought in moving the rotor is the possibility that it is 180 out. You did have the distributor out. It is possible for the tang on the distributor to not go in the slot of the oil pump when reinstalled. When you attempted to start it the tang could ride on the pump for 1/2 turn, and then drop into place . EDIT: I probably should had put my detailed logic in my earlier post. Possibly should have said indulge me, rather than humor me, to avoid confusion in my intent

Rock Auto About $10 + ship NAPA About $33 may or may not have shipping charge. AB going to sell you one with no box so you won't know the brand or part #, but will probably be correct. $15 + ship Auto Zone $19.99 special order ship to home Partsgeek $19.10 +shipping O'Reilly about $33 Book shows DPCD 1937-1948 same seal 668479 supposedly converts to 17145 SKF, and 5836 Timken They may, or may not fit. Measure the old ones, and check the various websites for specs There was a thread May 2013 saying that they were the wrong size. Research was being done. Thread was left hanging as to whether or not the correct seal was found. http://p15-d24.com/topic/33170-front-bearing-seal-size-part-number-issue/?hl=%2Bwheel+%2Bseal and then there is this thread: http://p15-d24.com/topic/33780-where-did-the-parts-list-dissapear-to/?hl=%2Bwheel+%2Bseal#entry339958

I believe you will find that the newer ones come with a rubber, or synthetic seal that does not require soaking in oil.

Do this just to humor me. Loosen the distributor. Raise it slightly. Turn the rotor 180 degrees. Lower the distributor. Snug it up. Try to start.

Seems many are now sourced "off shore" even if they say Raybestos , or other. Having yours sleeved may be a better choice.

1946 Plym Spec D serial # started with 25, 000, 001 and went to 25, 009, 752 Your engine # should be on a flat spot on the block near the generator, below the head. Should start with P15 Some info has been posted about the dealer moving the serial number tag to install a door post light switch. I think that was on later years, and was generally just moved up, or down on the same side. Does not explain why yours would be on the right. Pic of the vehicle my help to determine what it is. Could be the tag does not belong to that vehicle. Could have been removed from a 1946, and located to the right side as it would be on prewar Plyms. Could be auto worker went off to war, came back in '46 and just continued to put the sn tag where it was before leaving Edit: Seems some were on the right hand side.

When I replaced the square cut o-ring in my oil pump I refilled the oil pump with oil before installing it to aid in getting oil pressure again.

MoPaR parts book says same cap for DPCD NAPA Balkamp BK 7031220 should fit. Local here has it on the shelf. $4.99 Advance Auto Stant 10623 $6.49 on the shelf or Gates 31623 Edit: Mitchell Motor Parts will sell you the stant cap made in the usa for about $25 The other sources above may be henco en Mexico

Most any local auto parts store should be able to sell you the bearings. Rock Auto prices are good. (don't forget to use the 5% discount code) You can also order them from the vintage/classic sources if you would like to pay extra. Timken is a big maker of many bearings. NOS for bearings should not be an issue. Bearing seals I would stay away from old. EDIT: you can edit you double post noting it as such, or request a moderator delete it.

Readily available at NAPA, Auto Zone, Advance Auto.

Book shows: 1325998 standard 1" P, D 38-50; DS 38-50; C 37-50 EX 37 IMP AFTER #6733471 1450038 heavy duty 1 3/8" P 39-50 D 38-50 Chry DeSoto 39-50

To turn the engine over by hand you may be able to use the fan. One hand to pull the fan, other hand to put some tension on the belt so it does not slip. (Transmission in neutral) Caution: Keep an eye on your hand so that you do not pinch it between a belt, and a pulley. I'm sure no one here has ever done that You could tighten the belt real tight on the pulleys so that you can use 2 hands on the fan if needed, but you must loosen it back up before running the engine as a belt with too much tension will/may/can put undue stress on your water pump and/or generator bearings. Also without reading back through to find out someone may have mentioned putting the car in gear and rocking it forward, and back a bit. May have been in another thread. Read it somewhere recently. Once you are sure it is not stuck, bumping a bit wit the starter would likely not cause any problems, but that is just my opinion, and as such is worth nothing.

Your accelerator pump in the carb will probably be dried out after sitting for that extended time. The gas will not make it expand back out. When you have the top off the carb, pull the pump out and soak it in some oil for a while to soften it up. Then work it out a bit at the bottom so that it is a snug fit when reinstalling. Edit: If it's dried out, and you don't do that you won't get that little squirt of gas in the carb when move the linkage. Gas line filters before the fuel pump are also a good idea.