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Easiest I find for pics is to scroll down a bit to where you see attach files. Browse to select pics from your computer files. The size of the pics will determine how many you can attach in each post. Other methods available if your pics are hosted on a website. EDIT: previously posted If replying to a post (even your own) I find pics from my computer are the easiest. In the "reply to this topic" section, look to the right. click "more reply options" Scroll down to the "attach files" area, then browse your computer pics and attach your file. You can preview to see if it is to big, too small, or not there before hitting "add reply"

Spacer is used on the spindle/axle after the tool is in place to make it faster to tighten the nut down, and is not needed. Can substitute any type of spacer if desired for that purpose. The missing shaft is used to measure the drum to get the shoe clearance setting. Without that part all you can use the tool for is to center the shoes. It will not provide the needed measurement. If you also bought the tool in your first post you could possibly use that to measure the drum, and then set the 1750 to get the clearance.

http://p15-d24.com/topic/33101-would-like-to-rent-or-borrow-brake-adjustment-tool/?hl=%2Bbrake+%2Btool

I googled it before posting, but passed over the Wikipedia, (can't always believe what is there anyway) and looked at many other results noting that they were all recent stuff 2013, 2014 Seems "polar vortex" was defined as early as 1853 -22, -29,-22, -27. Glad I got my furnace installed, and running this week.

So what's the deal? For years we have had Alberta clippers, and Saskatchewan screamers. Now we have a "polar vortex". Are we trying to be politically correct, and not offend our neighbors to the north with offensive names for the fresh air that they send us, or is this a new phenomenon? I do not remember any references to a polar vortex in past winter seasons.

4101 vs 4104 horn relay. Difference is: 4101 has a screw to hold the ground wire where the 4104 has the female for a bullet connector.

My book lists that as 50 top right, with 1346825 for top left

Don, turn that engine over. I can never find the 13th nut when using this pic as a reference Although the last one I did I was practically standing on my head under the hood, so perhaps this is a suitable pic

collectorsaurtosupply.com mitchellmotorparts mmpar.com

That hole will let the trapped air escape Apparently there will be no trapped air.

Why does your 1957 engine have an external bypass housing? I thought those went out around 1951. Edit: Stant 13926 , or Gates 33026 if you want 160 degree

There is about 1" clearance down into the head from the top where the stat sits. If that one on the right extends down more than that it is not going to work.

google search says This is a device that is used on pistons with split skirts. It fits inside the piston and spreads the worn skirt to eliminate piston slap

Outer end of pump points down. You can fill it with oil before installing it to help with the priming.

clips are available on ebay, or in parts store help racks if this style http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Mopar-66-67-68-69-Coronet-Door-Panel-Clips-NEW-/10/!Bi4ikfQBGk~$(KGrHqIOKjIEsmiFeb7SBLRL0Nq-dQ~~_35.JPG

I opened the vent window on the ones I removed. Screw was on top of the door frame, not up through the garnish.

Look on the top of the door near the front for a screw. 51/52 had one up there toward the front. May still take a good tap with a block of wood being coaxed by a small hammered to get it to go up and let go. That was my experience on the 51 I ravaged this fall.

Perhaps I have been out in the cold too much. Maybe none with screws. Sounds like you have determined that it is secure

Not sure what is hotrodsandhemis, but here is a conversion. I have not done it. Posted as info. http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Mopar_Tapered_Axle_Rear_Brake_Conversion Edit: appears to be the same procedure

This may or may not help for adding a link to paste link: Right click , then click on the clip board to open a small window. Paste.

Good point on the bolt possible seize

Some flaps are held to the shaft by screws. Some are brazed/welded.

1) You have bolts that go all the way through, so there should be no "break them off" issues if taking it apart. 2) Without opening it you do not know for sure what is going on inside with the heat riser flap. ie loose 3) The gasket cost about $3. 4) Some shop manuals suggest (instruct) that when installing the intake/exhaust manifolds to have the 4 bolts just snug, and tighten them after the 13 bolts have been torqued to the 15-20 ft. lb. Your call

Can't go too far wrong with this http://www.harborfreight.com/mechanics-stethoscope-41966.html

That info is from a 1949-52 Dodge manual.