_shel_ny

48 dodge would be a D24

My book shows 856332 as the # for the plug. May or may not be correct. Some have suggested in the past that the help section in the parts stores has caps.(plugs) Possible match there. I can check the junk yard next month. collectorsautosupply or mitchellmotorparts

Quick check. Engine off. turn on headlights. where is the amp meter needle.

Is your battery going dead? If not, your gen is doing something. Output was low on my 51. If the battery cable was removed while idling, it would die. With higher rpms it would stay running when the cable was removed.

Hardware stores should have a pretty good selection of gaskets that should result in finding one that fits. Should be available in fiber type, or metal.

The fluid drive was an option on the D24, but it seems that most had it. By 51 the fluid drive was standard equipment. Sounds like the Meadowbrook has the gyro-matic.($95 option) This shop manual is pretty good. I believe it is also available on cd.

A 1951 Meadowbrook will have the 3 speed standard (most common in the baseline vehicle), or the M6 gyro-matic transmission(most common in the Coronet), either of which will be connected to the engine with a "fluid drive" coupling. I seriously doubt that there will be much tire smoking unless you fill the coupling with sand/rocks/cement/nails/marbles, or weld the vanes together to make it non-functional.

Print this. Take it with you. Point to the offending area. Mechanic will know what to do EDIT: better pic

Nothing wrong with a "quick fix" (something long term, short of replacement), but yes, leave the band-aid fix out unless it is just something to get you to the show, or home. After the housing swap bungs things up there is always the complete dizzy replacement Lines in the sand.

"Running strong"..................................... Why mess with it? epoxy it, and drive it like you stole it. Why disturb a vehicle that is running fine by replacing a known operational part with one of unknown condition, or rebuild your known operational distributor?

Lower the level of coolant before removing the bolts. Don't need to drain it all, just get it below the level of the bolts/studs to be removed. or coolant will be all over the floor.

This is a 2 year old thread. The problem has probably been fixed by now

That may work out for you. Sometimes it is difficult to get the keepers out of the retainer as everything tends to ride on up with the valve and spring, but as your spring is broken that should make it easier to disassemble.

This is the one I have. Should be able to google the #. Many auto parts stores in the US carry them. Probably not as common for you. May be difficult to do in the vehicle (EDIT: with head and manifold on) depending upon what valve you are working with. When you do it, stuff a rag in the return oil holes so the keepers do not end up in there. Sometimes ones along that line can be found on ebay Edit: KD 700

The gasket material that I used was approx. .030. Could probably go a bit thicker without problems. Avoid the "make a gasket with a paper grocery sack" advice. Edit: this thread may help with a download of the gasket http://p15-d24.com/topic/23629-transmission-to-bell-housing-gasket/?hl=%2Btransmission+%2Bgasket

http://p15-d24.com/topic/30939-type-of-oil/?hl=%2Boil+%2Bwith+%2Bzinc#entry308821 http://p15-d24.com/topic/34150-engine-oil/ http://p15-d24.com/topic/34320-no-oil-filter/ http://p15-d24.com/topic/28460-whitch-oil-should-be-used/?hl=%2Boil+%2Bwith+%2Bzinc#entry284217 http://p15-d24.com/topic/27727-engine-oil/?hl=%2Boil+%2Bwith+%2Bzinc http://p15-d24.com/topic/14547-anyone-using-zddp-plus-in-their-oil/?hl=%2Boil+%2Bwith+%2Bzinc#entry134156 http://p15-d24.com/topic/27386-20w40-dino-oil-do-they-make-it-anymore/?hl=%2Boil+%2Bwith+%2Bzinc#entry273395 http://p15-d24.com/topic/25628-oil-burning/?hl=%2Boil+%2Bwith+%2Bzinc#entry254105 http://p15-d24.com/topic/19834-oil-change-revisited/?hl=%2Boil+%2Bwith+%2Bzinc#entry190645

Same seller

You have been steered in the right direction. Answer to your question on contacting............ you can attempt to contact any forum member by hovering over their name in a post (up in the left. should be in blue), or on the right side on a page with a list of threads if that person was the last poster. When you hover, a window will open. On the bottom left in the window you will see "send message". You can click on that to send a "private message". Another way is, at the very top of the page, just to the left of your name you will see an envelope. Click on that. You can then send a private message to any forum member, or multiple members. Edit: selecting help (up to the right) will ...help... guide you through some of the site processes. http://p15-d24.com/index.php?app=core&module=help

From Tod's site 663602 Drive Pinion Bearing Oil Seal Assembly Interchange/Vendor: NAPA NOS 18880 Chrysler 1271104 National 5851 Chicago Rawhide 18880 Federal Mogul 473240

try SKF 18880 1271104, 663602, 76450 EDIT: 663302 seal 663304 felt washer EDIT 2: Tod Fitch's parts list http://www.ply33.com/Parts/numeric

853295 39 Dodge DeSoto Edit: others may fit, may fit others. This is the # in my MoPar 1954 and prior models parts list book

You should see the wire coming out the end of the column going to a bullet connector.

Note the original gasket on mine was a split gasket. That would allow a gasket to be installed without pulling the transmission all the way out.

some pics

Isolating the cause of the noise could allow you to repair the engine in the car. If a single wrist pin, cost for that repair would be a fraction of going all out at a rebuild. Were it mine, and all else seemed good (compression, oil pressure, oil consumption, ...... I would consider taking a shot at fixing the cause of that noise and getting more miles on it to determine the serviceability of the engine.