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Shop manual is a cheap investment

one of these may help http://p15-d24.com/topic/35854-voltage-regulatorcharging-questions/?hl=%2Bpolarize+%2Bgenerator#entry366513 http://p15-d24.com/topic/33478-12-volt-positive-ground-to-negative-ground/?hl=%2Bpolarize+%2Bgenerator#entry336286 http://p15-d24.com/topic/32732-voltage-regulator-buzzing-issue/?hl=%2Bpolarize+%2Bgenerator#entry327631 http://p15-d24.com/topic/32446-electrical-blues/?hl=%2Bpolarize+%2Bgenerator http://p15-d24.com/topic/23789-generator/?hl=%2Bpolarize+%2Bgenerator EDIT: You may or may not need to polarize the generator. If the battery is in right, amp meter hooked up correctly, and you get a + indication on the amp meter when you run up the rpm's, you are good to go. EDIT 2: welcome to the forum, and site

The rod you have circled will be wobbly, and moves very little. It is for the dash pot. Just provides a little squirt of gas to prevent stalling during deceleration with the fluid drive cars. The earlier pic that I posted was the dash pot rather than the accelerator pump. These pics are of the accelerator pump that I spoke of in the earlier post. Acc. pump on right. Dash pot on left. Sorry for the confusion. Moving the rod that you spoke of probably put that little squirt of gas into the carb throat so that it would fire up. You need to look down the carb throat and look for the squirt of fuel when you move the carb linkage that is attached to the gas pedal.

patchboy should have what you want this will get you to the site http://patchboy.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=P&Product_Code=17-416&Category_Code=6-3

On this engine, the exhaust valve sit slightly above the block when seated.

Often used tool. Not real old, but it has paid for itself many times over.

Paul, if you were closer I would give you a replacement. Got this for my wife, but she is such a tool, she doe's not like it

One more thing to have a look at. The carb had no gas for many months. At least 3 as you waited for it to arrive by ship. The accelerator pump leather may have dried. They tend to shrink and not make good contact on the wall of the chamber. Gas does not seem to get them back tight to the cylinder after they dry. Your vehicle should have a stromberg carb. When you get back to it, before attempting to start the car move the throttle linkage to see if you are getting a good spurt of fuel into the carb throat. If not, fill the carb float chamber with gas by using a syringe, or such. You can do that via the tube shown in the pic. The tube goes directly to the float chamber. (procedure courtesy of Dale (Bob's son-in-law)) After you put some fuel in the carb, move the throttle linkage to see if you are getting a good spurt of fuel into the carb throat. If not, you need to take the top off the carb, remove the accelerator pump and work the leather on the accelerator pump out a bit so it will fit tight in the cylinder. It can be soaked in oil for a while first to make it soft enough to work. EDIT: this pic shows the dash pot. see post below for accelerator pump.

http://www.oldmoparts.com/parts-service-brakes.aspx http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p3984.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X19+plymouth+brake+cable49&_nkw=1949+plymouth+brake+cable&_sacat=0&_from=R40 http://www.amazon.com/Parking-1949-1950-Plymouth-Special-Deluxe/dp/B008XOUT3I http://www.moparmall.com/servlet/the-396/1949-1950-deluxe-special/Detail

Back to the choke. Does it have the Sisson electric choke? Is it connected electrically, (wire going to starter) and mechanically (rod to carb)? Is it working? Should fully close the choke plate for a cold start. Close less if the manifold has warmed some, Correct, probably not an evaporation problem after only a few hours.

OP apparently would like to replace the oil bath with the little one in the pic. """"I bought a little paper air cleaner to go on top of the stock carburetor.""" One caution may be amount of air flow with a small filter. Rubber seal of some sort to sit on the carb horn, then a strip of metal, could be affixed like a band around the new filter base, extend down, fold under, with the ends held together with a wing nut and screw

Pinging last couple of weeks. Spark plugs 2 weeks. Which came first, the plugs, or the ping?

Couple of hoses, and a battery. Ready to roll. 2 heads are better than one. Tree power Spitfire, two tone

Be sure each leg of the puller is tightened as evenly as possible to pull straight. Hammer on arm of puller. No hammering on the end of axle. http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/brakes.html It sounds like you are using the correct puller. Avoid the type that has the jaws that grab the drum on the outside.

My NAPA SL128 $18 SL129 $24 SL130 $9 Guess you can see why I went with the 130. Also the longer bracket allows for more leeway in positioning if needed. Depending upon the positioning requirement for your vehicle it could eliminate the need for spacing blocks, or shims by bending the bracket.

I made a little pigtail to go with mine.

I put mechanical sw. in my D24. Just thought it was a good idea. That way as long is the battery is working, you have brake lights, even with no brake pressure. From below From above Sw. as it came Sw. after straighten, and re-bend

Bigger hammer.

My nail head 230 nail on head

Spring behind door panel, larger side toward panel, pushes escutcheon to handle, everything stays in place.

To clarify a bit, Mike (Post from 6 years ago) does not have the coil attached to his armored cable. (and we do not know how he resolved his problem) Bmartin has the "coil attached" set up, and provided a great pic of the wire, and tabs. Rich, your input is always appreciated, just wanted to clarify a bit

I believe the armored cable is overkill.( EDIT:Reread of the thread, I see it was theft deterrent) They were not used on 46-48 cars. They used them again in 49- maybe 52 on some. Those were like the one Mark has with the armor extending out into the engine bay, then just the wire continuing to the separate coil. I would carefully cut the armor cable back near the switch, and eliminate the bad wiring. You can do that with a dremel. Go slow be careful. Start out away from the switch, and cut again if you slip and damage the wire. A light nick could be covered with some shrink tubing. A recurring dead short will do nothing good for your car.

D-24 catch. Never noticed before, but the screw is off center from the head.

The fact that you polarized the "generator" when you put in the new regulator (I do not believe that a regulator change requires polarizing) may be the reason that it now shows charge. Maybe PO did not polarize.

I don't really understand the difference between a neg ground, and pos ground voltage regulator. I believe I read somewhere that there is a difference as to which side of the contacts will get some build up on them over time. I have seen regulators that say pos or neg ground on them.