Dartgame

Why not get a used slant 6 electronic distributor? That's what I used when I did the conversion a year ago. I bought a spare at the mopar nats this year for $10. Cleaned it up and everything works on it, including the vacuum advance... you are in west Texas - right ? Take a hop down to the local bone yard that has old cars/trucks in it. Bet you find one.

No problems using the 230 crank etc in a 218 block. Just did the same thing.

My car was originally from Virginia, and the title used the engine number. Illinois secretary of state would not accept it, they demanded a police officer inspect, verify, and document the serial number and engine number were from the same car. I did so and they rejected that! I took the car to the local secretary of state office and had one of their officers verify and document, the officer was angry that they didn't accept the police officers statement . It got done, but it was a pain in the butt.

Just an idea. Consider using some clay to lightly seal the pistons against the cylinder wall. I'd do this regardless of whether you hone, wire wheel, or sand. One at a time - move the piston 2/3 the way down, lightly oil wall near piston, seal it, and then sand, hone etc. Remove dirt etc as much as possible, then move piston down, and peel out clay, clean again, done.

Take a look at late 90's early 2000's Jeep Cherokees, not grand Cherokees. These had 3.55 ratios stock and the 8 1/4 chrysler axle assembly. Used to be a lot of these in the boneyards around here, and cheap.

Rusty - Wow that's quite a set up for those carbs! thanks for posting. I got the linkage set from George a few days ago and am collecting the last bits needed to complete the installation.

Thanks I sent you a message.

I've learned a few minor install tricks for this manifold. If using a stock exhaust manifold, (mine is split), you need to install the two long 3/8's bolts that go through the exhaust manifold before assembling the intake and exhaust manifolds together. Put some permatex number 2 on the thread of those bolts for sealing. They go into the water jacket. Leave the (4) 5/16" bolts that hold the manifolds together just snugged, while installing the assembled manifolds, use anti-sieze on two and permatex #2 on the other two - use new grade 8 bolts. 2 of these bolt holes are blind and the other two enter the intake runner. Tighten them last after all other fasteners are tight. Next, of the 4 studs that use heavy flat washers, the two on the ends of the intake flange (# 1 and #4) need to be installed before any other fasteners. Tight clearances for those two. Be sure to use the 4 brass washers and 4 cone shaped nuts on the exhaust manifold at either end of it. I used brass nuts and flat washers for the three remaining intake studs. Note that the FSM recommends 20 Lb-ft torque on all the fasteners.

I've seen your pics Sniper - how's that going by the way, did you get it running ?

I have a call into George. If anyone else has experience to share - please do so, thanks.

I'm in the process of installing one of these manifolds and two B&B carter carbs. Anyone care to share their experience in setting one of these up using a car throttle linkage ?

Sniper - that was the reason I contacted them directly and went to their factory. They know. Before they allowed me to visit, they told me to use the 73111 part number to order it from AZ etc. I believe they are the only producer of the part.

SA is on the SW side of Chicago near Midway airport, about 20-25 minutes away from me. I visited them in person, met the owner and got a tour. Very nice people, owner is a super guy, truly a delightful experience. Pretty much a soup to nuts shop.

Look up SA gear, part number 73111. American made - double tooth unit. Parts stores can order it with the correct part number from SA.

Remove the small square wire keeper (a Jesus clip) using a needlenose or a small screwdriver. Just remember to say Jesus when it goes flying away...LOL

You dont need to find an original tstat. Buy one for a 1960-70's mopar V8. They fit perfectly on my car and work the same. Cheap too. If you want a better grade tstat, buy a robertshaw style.

I confirmed the correct interior color is Alaska gray, but I cannot find a Chrysler color code number for it. Local paint stores won't or aren't able to cross reference to the old ditzler code number, they want a Chrysler number. I suppose I could dig around for a ppg auto paint store and see what they say. Frustrated, I did some playing around with spray paint in the garage. I found a cast iron engine paint made by duplicolor that is darn close to the right color as is, (a little lighter) but is satin. Next I sprayed a test sample with gloss black, allow to dry, then a couple of light coats of the cast iron gray, allow to dry and a light spray with gloss clear. Bingo. Its really hard to see the difference in color between the original part and the test sample. Next I'll try shooting the radio panel in the same manner and see what it looks like.

Thanks Harold - let me know if you find it. I'm not familiar with Jim Benjaminson, nor his book, can you elaborate ? Yes, I am thankful it doesn't have the gray woodgrain paint...Believe it or not, the dash is in excellent condition, paint is flawless, its low mileage - 40K always garaged. The car being the lowest base of all base models came with no radio, no turn signals, no heater, one horn, one sun visor, one arm rest etc. What Dad called a car with all the options, 4 tires and a steering wheel ! LOL. I am refitting it with a radio and thus need to paint the radio plate.

Yes I did previously and the 3rd page with the interior colors is incomplete from what I can tell. The part that's incomplete is the 51 and 52 colors - bummer.

I like the green color - the blue is nice, but not what I'm going for. Does anyone have a 52 service manual ? I looked in my service manual and it states astral gray poly, not alaska gray, the manual covers up to 53, thinking astral gray is a 53 color, based on an interior color chart from PPG ditzler. Mainly seeking confirmation on which is correct.

Looking for information about the gray color used on the dash of my 52 business coupe. I think its Ditzler code DL30917 Alaska gray poly. Sound right?

Passing along some research info. I looked at various bolts to replace the oe cylinder head bolts, all seem to use a smaller hex head. I wanted some with the stock size head 11/16, necked down like the original style. I've found an option for the cylinder head bolts that have 11/16 hex size. Original application was for an olds 350 v8. Dorman part number 675-060, sold in sets of ten per package - about $20 at Summit. Slightly longer than original, but work perfect even with a .070 milled head. Only a minor mod needed for the three bolts that go into the intake ports, grind to shorten them or use a hardened washer. Hope this is useful to others.

Test the permatex dressing you are talking about, by letting some dry on a piece of aluminum overnight. Then submerge it in jar of gas for a few days and see how it behaves. It would be a mess to have a sealant get sucked into the jet and emulsion tubes etc.

.011 inches intake cold and .013 inches exhaust cold, should get you close, then adjust both when hot.

I used 4 qts in my test, engine uses 5. My oil pan sump has baffles in it too. As I stated I will be using an O ring.