Dartgame

The rocker molding mounts on my 52 plymouth look similar. For the very front there is a stud attached to a piece of metal that slides into the point of the molding and goes thru the oval fender hole and is bolted in place. The rectangular openings use a formed flat piece of steel that snaps on to the moulding. Those clips fit into the rectangular opening and a tab is bent inside to lock it into place. The rear most clip is similar to the front except it bolts to the underside of the rocker panel. There should be 4 or 5 of those rectangular openings spaced evenly along the rocker panel taking into account the rear most clip. I found NOS rectangular clips on ebay from seller old plymouth cafe 206-778-2167, Neil - or Seaplym@hotmail.com. I think he is in Oregon, and I think he is associated with wildcat wrecking in Sandy Oregon? The front and rear most clips are unique pieces and are probably going to be tough to find, used is probably your only option. You might consider using modern plastic stud based mounts, studs can be spot welded to the rocker panel for mounting.

I'd pull the inspection plate and see if it is drilled for another pattern. If its stock size now, probably 9 1/4. Next size up is 10". 10" stuff is kind of hard to locate. For throw out bearings get an oem part number and cross it to alternate brands. I just did this for my car, low and behold mopar used the same throw out bearing and sleeve from about 1950 into the 80's. Lots of choices. I went with a self aligning type. I couldn't find an angular contact bearing with out doing a lot more research. I'm sure timken or SKF has one, but you'd need all the specs for the bearing itself, search through a bunch of bearing part numbers to find it; and then have to press off the old bearing and press on the new yourself.

Los - that appears to be a lean burn dizzy. Not useful for the conversion. Maybe Sniper can use it?

sniper - see if you find a small block lean burn dist. The upper part of the shaft is removable on them, graft that on to the flathead dist shaft and maybe that's your solution...

If I install one it will be the only pump in use on the car.

Sniper - have you had the lean burn dist. apart yet ? The upper sleeve on them should be compatible with the flathead main shaft. At least that's what I'd seen on small block lean burn dist. The mechanical advance slots are locked in such a way as to eliminate any advance movement, and the lower shaft is the same as a normal dist.

Los - any stock mopar electronic slant six distributor will work (1972 - 1980's) except for a lean burn type. You reuse the lower shaft from the flathead, and the upper mechanical advance sleeve (if you will) from the slant distributor, that slips over the lower shaft. In addition you re-use the slant's breaker plate, vacuum advance etc. Most challenging part is turning down the body of the dist. to fit in the block. More succinctly think of it as reusing the slant dist., with the lower shaft from the flat head dist.

I am considering installing one on my car. Years ago I used a holley red pump on a hopped up Dart and it was noisy even though I isolated its mounting using rubber, and rubber lines as well. Mallory makes a gerotor type pump that is supposed to be quiet. But I did no further investigation - expensive $300+. I've not used one since and am curious about your experiences. I see a lot of different manufacturers of electric fuel pumps, cheapy types, in lines, carter, holley etc. Comments ?

Why not get a used slant 6 electronic distributor? That's what I used when I did the conversion a year ago. I bought a spare at the mopar nats this year for $10. Cleaned it up and everything works on it, including the vacuum advance... you are in west Texas - right ? Take a hop down to the local bone yard that has old cars/trucks in it. Bet you find one.

No problems using the 230 crank etc in a 218 block. Just did the same thing.

My car was originally from Virginia, and the title used the engine number. Illinois secretary of state would not accept it, they demanded a police officer inspect, verify, and document the serial number and engine number were from the same car. I did so and they rejected that! I took the car to the local secretary of state office and had one of their officers verify and document, the officer was angry that they didn't accept the police officers statement . It got done, but it was a pain in the butt.

Just an idea. Consider using some clay to lightly seal the pistons against the cylinder wall. I'd do this regardless of whether you hone, wire wheel, or sand. One at a time - move the piston 2/3 the way down, lightly oil wall near piston, seal it, and then sand, hone etc. Remove dirt etc as much as possible, then move piston down, and peel out clay, clean again, done.

Take a look at late 90's early 2000's Jeep Cherokees, not grand Cherokees. These had 3.55 ratios stock and the 8 1/4 chrysler axle assembly. Used to be a lot of these in the boneyards around here, and cheap.

Rusty - Wow that's quite a set up for those carbs! thanks for posting. I got the linkage set from George a few days ago and am collecting the last bits needed to complete the installation.

Thanks I sent you a message.

I've learned a few minor install tricks for this manifold. If using a stock exhaust manifold, (mine is split), you need to install the two long 3/8's bolts that go through the exhaust manifold before assembling the intake and exhaust manifolds together. Put some permatex number 2 on the thread of those bolts for sealing. They go into the water jacket. Leave the (4) 5/16" bolts that hold the manifolds together just snugged, while installing the assembled manifolds, use anti-sieze on two and permatex #2 on the other two - use new grade 8 bolts. 2 of these bolt holes are blind and the other two enter the intake runner. Tighten them last after all other fasteners are tight. Next, of the 4 studs that use heavy flat washers, the two on the ends of the intake flange (# 1 and #4) need to be installed before any other fasteners. Tight clearances for those two. Be sure to use the 4 brass washers and 4 cone shaped nuts on the exhaust manifold at either end of it. I used brass nuts and flat washers for the three remaining intake studs. Note that the FSM recommends 20 Lb-ft torque on all the fasteners.

I've seen your pics Sniper - how's that going by the way, did you get it running ?

I have a call into George. If anyone else has experience to share - please do so, thanks.

I'm in the process of installing one of these manifolds and two B&B carter carbs. Anyone care to share their experience in setting one of these up using a car throttle linkage ?

Sniper - that was the reason I contacted them directly and went to their factory. They know. Before they allowed me to visit, they told me to use the 73111 part number to order it from AZ etc. I believe they are the only producer of the part.

SA is on the SW side of Chicago near Midway airport, about 20-25 minutes away from me. I visited them in person, met the owner and got a tour. Very nice people, owner is a super guy, truly a delightful experience. Pretty much a soup to nuts shop.

Look up SA gear, part number 73111. American made - double tooth unit. Parts stores can order it with the correct part number from SA.

Remove the small square wire keeper (a Jesus clip) using a needlenose or a small screwdriver. Just remember to say Jesus when it goes flying away...LOL

You dont need to find an original tstat. Buy one for a 1960-70's mopar V8. They fit perfectly on my car and work the same. Cheap too. If you want a better grade tstat, buy a robertshaw style.

I confirmed the correct interior color is Alaska gray, but I cannot find a Chrysler color code number for it. Local paint stores won't or aren't able to cross reference to the old ditzler code number, they want a Chrysler number. I suppose I could dig around for a ppg auto paint store and see what they say. Frustrated, I did some playing around with spray paint in the garage. I found a cast iron engine paint made by duplicolor that is darn close to the right color as is, (a little lighter) but is satin. Next I sprayed a test sample with gloss black, allow to dry, then a couple of light coats of the cast iron gray, allow to dry and a light spray with gloss clear. Bingo. Its really hard to see the difference in color between the original part and the test sample. Next I'll try shooting the radio panel in the same manner and see what it looks like.