Dave72dt

Maybe take a look at the plugs once more now that you have some miles on it. Your first statement back in September mentioned key codes and TPS out of range. Out of range can be an indication of a poor ground. Chrysler had a habit of tying multiple sensors together with a single ground as well as having multiple ground locations. Check them once again for any indications of that green corrosion on the terminals. Fresh, bright copper wire with a fresh terminal on it.

I don't recall anyone mentioning they did the conversion. Pics Mark had are gone unless he has some archived and can repost. I don't think the new parts are going to solve the issue. The second option I listed will still work and you can do that while waiting for the new parts to arrive. Those hinges already have a weak spot right where it transitions into the rolled tube. A little slice to weaken them more, bend, weld.

The bushings were a light press fit into the painted tailgate and the bar stock was a bolt welded into the hinge. Minimum invasive and your spray cans will take care of the weld on the hinges. You could also do a relief cut on the hinge, correct the alignment, weld and paint. A small stub shaft inside the hinge if worried about strength. Nothing would need to be done to the tailgate itself. If you've had the stake pockets redone......

It was posted in DPETCA and with that gone, it's gone. I found a reference to it in the FEF build. As I recall a 3/4" bolt with the head cut off was welded in after the rolled section was removed and a bronze bushing fitted into the tailgate tube.

I looked at mine just now. Both straight across, parallel to the rear C channel. Slide your tailgate on one side. Assuming it fits reasonably, how far away is the other side from the bed? From the angle in your pic, I'd say about 6+" away.

I saw an asterisk in the price reference of the 39-41 kit and following that down to the bottom of the page is an additional part required for standard shift trans. Install instructions seemed fairly straight forward. There's also a pic of the kit with the bracket at the bottom of the page. It would be nice if it was larger but it's something to get an idea from. ECI should be willing to help. If not, consider some other company.

It won't hurt to recheck them and verify. Did the points have the separate spring? Sometimes it doesn't get installed correctly and the points will bounce. I like the use of a timing light to check for ignition misfires. Use it to check for steady flashing working along each plug wire.

Ignition cutting out or maybe some water in the gas. Point gap, points bouncing, condenser going bad.

I've seen them on farm equipment, usually as full time flashers warning of wide or slow moving equipment. You might want to check DMV laws regarding yellow-yellow. It can vary from state to state. You can get or order at parts houses. I had an old Studebaker 1 ton that had yellow on the front and red on the back of the front fender mounted light.

I watched both segments and found the process effective. Sequence of some tasks are different as well as some of the tricks I use.

I believe it to be a circuit breaker.

Were the insides of the cat already gone when you opened it up? Did you fire the engine up before connecting the tail section? Once the pipe was cut would have been a good time to do your flow check before getting invasive.

Not necessarily bad. Turning the tappet via the flats would give you an indication of any tappets being froze. You could also change the gap between tappet and valve on any that indicate the valves are closed using the adjusters. It would give you some working room to push up on those valves and maybe gain some crankshaft rotation.

Cut the pipe a couple inches behind the cat, remove at manifold or not, perform surgical procedure from tail end, get an exhaust pipe coupler, less than $10, couple of clamps or weld it in after the surgical procedure on the cat is completed. Muffler and resonator still intact and does not need to be removed or replaced. Simple.

A couple extra pairs of hands for hood assembly and installation would be a good idea.