Dave72dt

That's why I asked "why no disclaimer". If it was supposed to be a look back, say it.

There's no reason for using that method and I hope no one does that anymore. Why post that "tip" without a disclaimer?

Does it have a probe for the exhaust gases? That machine should have been hooked up and used for all your tuning and diagnosis on pre- OBD cars and could be used for some aspects on those. That oscilloscope provides a wealth of information.

I would expect washers that had been pulled down by tightening to have rounded edges on the wood. All the pictures of the old wood seem to have a machined, sharp edge. The bolts would also have been rusty making successfully tightening them difficult. I believe they were countersunk originally. It doesn't make sense to not countersink them for a bed usability perspective.

Lubriplate would not have left the surface but could have dried up.

Washer on top the wood makes me think of scraping snow off a sidewalk or driveway and coming up against a raised edge. I realize that bed will never see a scoop shovel and you may not be able to relate to scraping snow off a driveway but I think it looks more utilitarian with the washers recessed. JMO. You could eliminate those washers and bolt the cross members using the only the bottom holes and short bolts. The bed is still bolted to the cross members on the outside by the side angles.

ggdad1951's "building a wood bed" link's first picture shows the washers clearly countersunk in the old wood.

May have pulled the coil wire, may have pulled the plugs, may have just started it. Depends on how they were taught or reasoned would suffice and had success with. Assembly lubrication could have varied widely also. May have been just engine oil, maybe a swipe of grease, STP was common after it was available, white lithium, etc. Actual assembly lube as we know it today, would not have been in very many DIY garages or neighborhood service stations either.

Our third great grandchild brought the new year in as the first newborn of the year yesterday at 7:00 p.m. First photo indicated he was not happy about it even if Mom and Dad were.

I've got manual front disc, rear drum on my Mach I. Pedal effort is more than with power but no more than with drum all around. Used the same pedal when I did the conversion.

Give them the length of your brake pedal to the center of the pedal pivot point and from the center of the pedal pivot point to the center of the pushrod pivot point. You might also want to measure the travel distance of the pedal to the floor. Their engineers can calculate it or you can. You may want to note the position of the pushrod pivot point to the pedal also. It's going to be in the 6 : 1 minimum ratio for manual brakes and a bit less for power assist but do your measurements. I know there's some info on the internet regarding pedal ratios when researching for my firewall mounted booster and hanging pedals.

If you laid a straight edge front to rear across all the bed cross members, where does the end channel lay in relation to those? Above or even with?

It "looks" like you may have room to move the L brackets down that 1/4". Possibly moving the fastening on the L brackets would get you where you need to be without slotting thew holes in the stake pocket.

I understood your system the first time and knew you were going to do the GM version. That was obvious. There are alternatives and you made your choice. As long as it works and you're happy, great. The objective of getting the truck running reliably has been accomplished. Time to move on.

There were all kinds of boxes on Eby for under 50 and free shipping and are the same for slant 6 or V8, 4 pin or 5, either would work and were on every gas powered Chrysler mid 70's to late 80's. new connectors are ridiculously priced, yes but female bullet connectors will go right on the terminals so a cheap diy harness is doable. Ign system is just different from what everyone else had, not difficult. You don't need high rpm performance with that flat six. Resistor is not bypassed. those resistors have 2 different resistance values. Hey, it's running with what you put together. That's what counts. You might want to keep a spare of that module you're using on hand. I 've had those go bad as well.