MBF

I’ve got em on both of mine

I had a similar hesitation on my dad’s 40 Plymouth. Rebuilt the carb,but no shot from the accel pump. Tuns out there is a tiny jet at the top of the carb w a removable cap on it. Inside that cap was a plugged jet that had to be opened. Up (I used an old banjo string). I also soaked the new plunger in oil for a while to soften the leather before installing it. Runs fine now. Good luck

Ive got half ton springs in my 1 ton in the front. They were identical in leaf count and height to the originals that I replaced them with.. now I’m really confused!

I wouldnt use brakeclean on a steering wheel as a prep. I think a wax and grease remover would be kinder to the Bakelite. I unsend epoxy to repair both of mine and then rattle canned w a clear coat. Both are holding up well

My b1d116 doesn’t have helpers or their supports. I was told by another collector that this is a heavy 3/4 ton since it has the 3 spd trans.. I’ve seen a few in this configuration. I have a 52 1 ton that does have the helper and it has a 4 speed. I did some research on this and Dun Bunn’s bible on p 90 shows a D 126 similar to mine w/o helper springs in a single wheel configuration. With the full floating rear and proper rims it could be easily made into a dually but i’m Not sure how that would change the load rating. So my assumption is that it is a one ton in single or duals, but how do the helper springs change the load rating?

The one tons had a helper spring pack stacked on top of the regular springs. A dually 3/4 ton doesn’t have the helpers. Neither had rear shocks as oem

Check to see if it contains a dual filament bulb.. if it does one wire will be for the turn signal and the other for a parking light. In that case it would still ground through the housing.

Depepending on your drum size, the 19.5’s may not fit over the drum on the inner rears since they’re drop centers

Contact ESPO Spring. They have them in stock

What does the glass sedient bowl look like under the fuel pump? You may be bringing up particulate matter from the gas tank and plugging that new filter. Could also be a sticky valve, or ignition problem. Are all ignition wires tightly connected? How about inside the distributor?? Just some stuff to try

The drop center 22.5 rims are out there, not in great quantities, and expensive. The ability to find 22.5's is great, but not cheap either. Nothing wrong withe the 20" locking ring rims if they're in good shape, the limitation is finding tires. Personally, if the truck isn't being used regularly, I'd stay with the bias ply 20" tube tires-they don't deteriorate as quickly as a radial will from sitting.

Watash-that flexible wire is the wire from the point contact tips to the ground side of the coil. When the points close, it allows the coil to discharge by collapsing the fields in the secondary windings-this is what creates the spark that is sent to the distributor to be routed to the correct spark plug. It is flexible because the base plate will move slightly with the vacuum advance so it can't be mounted tightly to the housing. If that wire, or if the insulated post that passes through the base of the distributor housing is shorted to ground you won't have any spark as the coil will be constantly grounded. If you go back to my original reply, you will see a method to test the coil and points circuit.

If you take the coil wire out of the center of the dist cap and put it near a good grounds, when you manually open and close the points it shoud fire to ground each time the points close. If it does, that would eliminate the coil as being the problem. That short flexible wire goes from the points, to an insulated pheonolic fastener to the outside of the dist housing to the ground side of the coil. If its loose, broken, or shorted you won't have any fire.

I'm gonna make a guess here and say that your float arm mechanism is on the wrong side of the pivot causing it to read backwards of what it should. The sender itself is a progressive or variable ground.

If you just want rollers, 6 lug Budd's from an IH, or Ford will fit, as will the 16" drop center rims from an IH with the hubcap clips. Later model Dodges used 16.5, and 17 inch rims that will also bolt up. If you want to run duals though, you need the rims with the dual offset. Good luck w your search-they're out there.

I was part of this original thread. I used GM internally regulated alternators on both of my conversions, and 12v coils. I also bypassed the ammeter on my truck due to the added lights. I have a ballast resistor on my heater motors-they've been working fine on both vehicles for years. On the truck, I fused all of the lights, heater, and other accessories individually. Vacuum wipers on both vehicles so no need to do anything there. Good luck.

Make sure that you have a good battery to body ground. The voltage regulator needs a good ground to work properly. Had this problem with one of mine, and you may want to dress the points with some crocus cloth to make sure the contacts are clean. I thought mine was bad, but it ended up being a ground problem.

7.50's depending on the brand are tight on the duals with almost no space between them-not enough to get a finger between them. . I went w the 7.00's for mine. I used to have pics of the single and dual rims to show the difference, but I can't find 'em.

I think you've got a hanging intake valve if its blowing back through the carb.

I've seen these stuck so bad that they've pushed the valve guide up out of its original position. Still have that engine-truck sat for years outside, but it ran great when it was parked! I bought a 46 2 ton dump a few yrs back. Got a deal on it because it was running on only 5 cyls. When they delivered it he started it on the trailer, I choked it off on MMO and a short time later I heard it clunk. Started it back up-hitting on all 6. Sometimes you get lucky, and sometimes the bear bites you.

Not sure, but I think the purpose of the bypass was to let a limited amount of coolant pass through the system when the vehicle was cold. That way the rear cyls wouldn't get overly hot while waiting for the thermostat to open, and you'd have some heat out of the heater if so equipped. I don't believe there was a difference between the two when the thermostats were open. If I'm wrong-someone please correct me.

Give it a shot of Marvel Mystery oil down the carb, and run some in the gas. We've had to do that for years with our flattys-they sit too much.

If you get a rotating variable resistor switch you should be able to control the speed of the fan.

W/o knowing what your actual oil pressure is showing, you may want to look at the lower half of the engine. If this is in a truck, you should be able to remove the pan from under the vehicle.. Jack the truck by the frame and support it on stands with the front suspension hanging and relaxed. That will give you room to drop the pan and check the bottom end.

With any type of valve (dash operated or the under hood petcock type) I think I'd want coolant in the heating circuit-especially if you run antifreeze in your system. That will reduce the probability of corrosion, and since the valve is only on 1 end of the circuit, unless it seals 100% you're probably still going to have coolant in it. I turn mine off under the hood in the spring, and on in the fall. Sometimes over the summer I'll move the valves on all my old stuff so they don't seize up. Just my 2 cents.