MBF

I've gotten mine through NAPA, and I think there are a long and short version. Either will bolt up and fit behind the radiator (the long one is a tight fit) but if you're converting to that style from the shorter version, you'll need a pulley with enough offset to line up with the crank and generator pulleys to keep the belt aligned. Mike

I think you're right that it is the thrust pad. What does your pinion look like? I would think it would have to be pretty chewed up to leave those grooves, but I don't understand how it could make contact with the carrier unless the yoke nut was loose. I'd be interested to see what you find.

On my slant 6 I used brass nuts and the high temp antiseize when I did the rebuild. Never know when its gonna have to come apart again. I think I did the same thing when I did the valve job in the 230 in my 49 1 ton.

Check RockAuto and Partsgeek. I think they both have them for the larger trucks.

I think I would put a staked mark on the face of the pintion nut and the pinion threads to return the nut to the existing tightness and not change the pinion bearing preload. That was advised on another post on this forum years ago. Mike

My 49 1 ton does the same thing. I've got new shoes, cyls, seals, and lines on it, and had the drum cut. I've had the hub off several times to see what is going on. There is nothing leaking and nothing visibly wrong that I can see.. It would lock up the left front in the first stop after it sits in the garage a few days. So now when I back it out of the garage I drag the brake for a wheel rotation or 2 and its fine. I'm anxious to see what you find.

I use an ignition ballast resistor on the heater motors for my 1 ton, and 36 Plymouth. Been using them for years (although not every day drivers) w/o an issue. Those motors are tough-I pulled one out of my parts truck that had been sitting in the woods w/o windshields in it for at least 25 yrs.. The motor looked shot, but when I hooked it up to a batt it ran fine, and quiet. I oiled it, and put it on the shelf in case I ever need it.

I can get one tomorrow. I've got enough parts to restore it. It did run, but had low oil pressure. I've got another good flatty and a trans to put in it. Just haven't gotten around to it yet.

I've got a 230 Chrysler Industrial in a Worthington Golf Chief tractor. I needed an exhaust manifold years ago for my 1 ton, so I "borrowed" the one off the industiral. The intake has a built in plenum under the carb. Not sure what the purpose is.

For the wiper parking positions, on the vacuum setup you can switch the parked positions by swapping the actuating arm's positions on the pivot arm on the vacuum motor. I just did this on one of mine. I think you might run into problems switching in an electric setup on a B1 or B2. The transmissions are in different positions, and the actuating arms are different, but I could be wrong on this.

I have the original door cards from my B1D that I put in my B2JA. There is the hump, but no embossing. I made new headliners, door cards and kick panels for both trucks using 1/4" luan sheets and vinly material that my wife picked up for me a t the fabric store. The one ton is black inside, and the 2.5 ton I did in brown. I had to make my own patterns. I did 1 piece for the headliner for each, and since the 1 ton is the std cab w/o the corner windows I did a single sheet across the back which was easier than the big truck w the windows. The rear window gaskets have a flap that helps hold the panels in place and gives them a nice finished look. They aren't perfect, but I'm satisfied. The panels along w the dynamat really quieted things down in both cabs.

There is a return spring that goes back to an eye of a cotter key poking through the passenger side floor toe pan. Check the tension on that spring it may need to be replaced. Other possible problem areas could be the ball pivots on the bottom of the gas pedal, and the ball mount on the rod that comes through the firewall to the pedal. Clean and lube them as well and look for an obstruction or something rubbing where the rod goes through the firewall to make sure it isn't rubbing on something. My 2 ton does the same thing because it doesn't get driven that much so the spring ritual is to lube the pivots.

I would think the p/n's that I provided in an earlier post would be correct then. I wasn't sure if your's was a H or J series. Mine is a JA (2 speed rear) but I would imagine everything else in the axle housing except for maybe the axle shafts themselves would be the same. FYI-my overhauled brakes with the original vacuum booster are WAY more brakes than are needed for the truck's current mission. They're much more effective than those on my B2D 1 ton. Mike

On these vehicles w a 3 on the tree I'm pretty sure there is a cable mechanism that separates the 1-R and the 2-3 shift positions with only 1 actual rod going to the transmission. If what DJ19491950 suggested won't work you may have to look at adjusting the throw of the cable. I could be wrong because I no longer have that setup in a truck.

I've got new 7.00-16's on my one ton that I bought 2-3 yrs ago. As with any of the bias plys-they flatspot when sitting for any period of time, and round back out after a short drive.

RH71-I apologize-I completely forgot about this over the holidays. I hope this helps. Rear cyls Lockheed casting #FD31187 (or NAPA p/n 28803 that were $80 ea. The seals were NAPA p/n's 33807. My truck has 16" x 3" wide rear shoes if that helps at all. The front cyls were NAPA p/n's 3595 (left) and 3596 (right). The relined shoes came from an outfit out west: Northwestern Auto Supply at 1-800-704-1078 and were $75.00. I worked w a fellow named Gene who was very helpful. Good luck. Mike

If a locking ring 20" Dayton rim clamps to those hubs, you shouldn't have any problem with the 22.5" drop center Dayton tubeless radial rims. You could also run tubed 20" radials on your rims, but if it were me I'd go w the 22.5's. I wish my ex-firetruck had Daytons on it instead of Budds-a lot easier to find tires for today. Nice looking truck, and if you do go the radial route they'll do wonders for your ride and handling. I had a GMC Brigadier tractor that originally came w bias ply tires on it, when it was time for tires I went the tubed radials (this is back in 1980) and what a difference it made. Mike

I vaguely remember that my dad had a NY telephone installers truck. The hubcaps were painted silver with white DODGE lettering, and maybe a red ring around the circumfrance. You may have some luck googling 1955 Dodge truck pictures.

Paul, I've never done one on a flatty, but I've done several V-8's and a slant 6. If you remove the radiator (which when I did mine involves removing the hood), water pump, and crank pulley you're now at the timing chain cover. This needs to be removed to get at the chain and gears. I'd replace the chain and both gears along with the front crank seal. I don't know if the crank pulley on the flattys is keyed or a tapered fit but you'll likely need a harmonic balance puller (not a jaw type of puller) if it is the later to avoid damaging the pulley assembly. Make sure you line up your timing marks correctly and doublecheck everything before putting it back together. Mike

The straight piece on the bottom of your photo was replaced on mine '49 about 20 yrs ago. It is like a canvas covered strip-there is no actual wiper that is held in place w 3 or 4 clips that snap over the canvas. . I think that there are 3 rubber bumpers that go in the inside side of the glass that actually make contact with the glass to keep it from ratting. Each is about 1.5" long and they fit into punched tab on the inside edge of the door frame. That truck doesn't have vent windows so I'm not sure if this helps or not. I got these items from either Roberts or Bernbaums.

RDHot71 I'll check the paperwork in my garage tomorrow and get back to you with the p/n's that I used and anything else I can find. Mike

On my 2.5 ton, the front ones were the same stepped cyls used in my 1 ton, but they're specific as to what side they go on. For the rear I got relined shows and new cyls, and seals. The cyls were the same side to side if I remember correctly. I know I have the pn's written down in my garage and I will get them for you if you need them, but mine is a B2JA with a 2 speed rear with I think 16" brakes. While you're in the rear, you may want to replace the inner seals to avoid having to take it apart again.

I've got a 49 B2D-no vacuum adv either. You may want to check your linkage to make sure that you're getting full throw at the throttle shaft from the pedal. Several places where there could be loose, bound, bent, or missing pieces. I'm not familar w the Stromberg for that model, but do you have the arm that attaches to the carb lined up properly on the shaft?

If you do decide that you have to replace the seal, you'll need to disconnect the driveshaft from the rear, and remove the drive pinion (large nut in the center of the pinion). Since the tightness of this nut determines the pinion bearings preload, I'd put a mark on one of the edges of the castleated nut, and one on the pinion threads to line it back up as an approximation of how tight the nut needs to be. If you take the drive pinion to a reputable auto parts supplier (NAPA or other) or a machine shop they should be able to order the correct sized speedi sleeve that you need-if you actually need one. Sometimes these old sleeves really fight back when you go to remove them so patience is a good tool to use. I lost mine!

I'd be leaving NY state right after the New Year's Holiday if I was driving this out to the barbecue. She cruises at 45!