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MBF

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Everything posted by MBF

  1. You should be able to get wheel cyls at any NAPA store. They had the ones for my 1 ton in stock. If that doesn't work, Bernbaum's or Robert's Motor Parts should have them as well. Mike
  2. Someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe that the two grooves that the hood sections pivot on act like a gutter to move the moisture to the front. On my truck there is a piece that acts as a diffuser that I think channels the output from the grooves to an area in front of the engine. Is your center section cracked or broken on either side, and does the cowl seal (flat welting) run up past the hinge grooves? Mike
  3. Nice find, but be careful trying to repair that dinged rim. If those locking rings don't fit correctly you could be looking at some serious injury to you or someone else. It may be better to try and find a replacement for it.
  4. You've got to also make sure that the engine comes up to a temerature warm enough to raise the temp of the engine oil to a point where it will vaporize the condensation in the crankcase or you'll have sludge build-up problems. I have found that a 160 t-stat along with a pcv system works well to keep the oil clean.
  5. Take a piece of twine and tape it to the bottom of the driveshaft. Make a mark on one of the rear tires at 6 o'clock and roll the vehicle forward until the tire makes exactly 1 complete revolution. Count the wraps of string on the driveshaft and that will give you a ballpark of the ratio. To be more exact, mark the string in increments equal to the circumfrance of the driveshaft tube. This'll get ya in the ballpark.
  6. I get around 13 in the 1 ton. Haven't put enough miles on the 2.5 tonner to see what that gets.
  7. I had a similar problem with an IH KB-7. The problem turned out to be the emergency brake was not fully releasing on the driveshaft. The owner sold it very cheap, and much to my surprise....... it was a simple fix. Are there any noises in the rear while running? When it locks up can you still turn 1 wheel?
  8. If you're doing any rewiring you should check to make sure that you're using the proper guage wire for a 6 volt system due to the heavier amp draw of the lower voltage system. The amp draw will be twice that of a comparable 12 volt system. Mike
  9. I don't know if this is overkill or not, but I had a similar problem on one of mine. I did what Hank said and removed the head to oil the wick. I then pulled the entire cable out of the truck, removed the inner cable and flushed the housing. I then lubed the cable as I inserted it back into the housing with Vaseline (I've used graphite on other ones). That was several years ago and it is still working fine. If you pull the inner cable, handle it carefully as there may be broken strands on it that like to poke nasty holes in your skin. If that's the case, you'll need to replace it. I believe you can still get a cable from NAPA Mike
  10. Try a local spring shop, or ESPO Springs & Things.
  11. In my 36 Plym, I have a steering column mounted fan (with rubber blades). With the heater on, it will keep the driver's half clear. In the trucks I have the original defrosters, but there doesn't seem to be much air movement from the windshield frame, so on the dash I have a caged fan mounted that I can aim where I need it. Mike
  12. Guess you're gonna need a bigger bug light. Love to hear those suckers get zapped. We've got a lot of bat activity up here nights which I'm sure is helping to keep the skeeter population somewhat in check.
  13. Did you try adjusting the door striker plate on the rear of the cab? What type of shape are your hinge and pins in? Has the door ever been bent or tweaked because of a broken/missing door strap? If not, I would attempt to adjust the striker plate, and then the hinge(s) outward a tad if they're not already at the max adjustment. Mike
  14. From the pics"(mounting ears) it looks just like the spare 3 spd I have from a late 30's Dodge. It looks like the shift tower is slightly forward of the one in my 49, but hopefully it will fit. I'd have him pull the top off and make check out what the inside looks like before you try to do the swap. If it fits, I think you may have to heat and bend the shift lever to keep it from hitting the bottom of the dash when in rev and 2nd. Let us know how the swap goes. Mike
  15. When I was driving for a living, using the trailer brakes only was a common practice, and probably the reason that you always checked the trailer brakes before pulling out with a trailer. A lot of them had the brakes worn down to the metal shoes, but the owner operators' tractor brakes always looked like they had just been replaced. That brake handle out here was always referred to as a "trolley handle". If someone was riding right on your tail, a slight touch of the trolley handle would close the stop light relay w/o operating the brakes and would make them back off a bit. Mike
  16. Kevin-are you sure about the transmission swap? I have a 4 spd from a 52 parts truck that I was going to put in my 49 1 ton, but the mounting ears are completely different. To put this trans into my truck requires a bellhousing swap which is why I haven't done it. Mike
  17. I agree with the others. If no leaks, the vac 2 speed works fine, but I remember shifting the 39 with the two levers, and the 2 speed lever was positioned right next to the trans shift lever so it was just a matter of sliding your hand off of one lever to reach the other. I was driving a truck with a 5 and 4 at the time, and driving the old Dodge hauling dirt on the property was a hoot. If everthing in your truck works, I'd leave it as it is and enjoy it the way it was designed. That dual trailer brake setup is pretty rare and will get a lot of attention at a truck show.
  18. I would say that is about correct for a 3.55 comparing it to the same rear I have in my 78 pickup with the slant 6. It'll do 60 comfortably but at 65 its starting to wind up. Have you done a compression and leakdown test on each cylinder to see what is going on internally? Do you have a brake hanging up? Just some things to check. Mike
  19. I had a 39 Dodge that had a mechanically operated 2 spd rear. There was a lever assembly mounted on the transmission connected to a rod with a clevis in it (for adjustment) that ran to the rear 2 spd shift arm on the differential. I still have the assembly on a parts engine if you can't come up with anything else(you can PM me) You may want to post your question about the brakes on the ATCA website discussion board (antiquetruckclub.org) Mike
  20. Not an uncommon problem for something that sits for a long time. Old timers used to block the clutch pedal to the floor when storing a vehicle for an extended period of time. That way the clutch wouldn't stick when they were ready to use the vehicle. What does the face of the flywheel look like? If it were mine, I'd try to clean up the pressure plate and flywheel with a scotchbrite pad or very fine emery cloth/sand paper, replace the disk and throwout bearing and put it back together. Be careful working around the dust on the clutch parts. Those old clutches used a high asbestos content material. Wear an approved respirator while you're cleaning the parts and do it in an open environment. Good project. Mike
  21. Did the green one about 8 yrs ago. Rustoleum deep hunter green. With an occasional wax it still has a good shine. Someday it'll get a real paint job, but until then. It looks better than the gun job the previous owner did on the red one......
  22. In NY 10 yrs or newer the OBD is hooked to a NY state inspection computer. Check engine light on? vehicle fails until fixed. Anything older than 10 yrs is safety only. Probably a good thing. I've bought two trucks in the past that had copper tubing for brakelines, and other cobby repairs done.
  23. Is there a keyway in the clutch pedal and/or adjustment assembly?
  24. I just started rereading the Bunn book last night. He states early on that comparably equipped version showed the trucks to be equal. I'm kinda biased towards the MOP's, but there are things I like alot about the other two too
  25. GTK: The tag on the dist listed it as a Chrysler dist p/n 1793319. There were other numbers under that (1A04101A-1 BD086410). Is that what you're looking for? This has no facilities for vac advance, only mechanical. Thanks. Mike
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