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Found 17 results

  1. Hello everyone. My newest projects came to me from my father that passed away in December of 2017. He kept these trucks for over 40 years, in a garage and I drooled over them since I knew how to walk. I will do them justice and honor my dad by putting them back into service, just the way he had them, years ago. I just wanted to share these with everybody. Wish me luck!
  2. I am working on a 1937 Dodge 1/2 ton pickup with a 218ci 6-cylinder. The engine number stamped on my block is: T38-8085. The engine spun the #2 rod bearing and cracked the crankshaft. I have located a crankshaft and set of rods out of a 1953 Dodge B4B with a 218 ci engine, and I am hoping to use this crank as a replacement. The B4B engine is stamped with T306*I57323*. Unfortunately, I do not have the crankshaft casting numbers readily available. My question is, are these crankshafts interchangeable? Or can this only be determined from the crankshaft casting numbers?
  3. Hello, first off let me say a pre thank you to anyone who takes an interest or provides me with any kind of insight. I have for years been cruising automotive forums whenever my vehicles have started acting up. i have found a wealth of information and helpfulness to pretty much diagnose, if not fix almost every problem. So far, so good...sort of. Anyway i have never signed up for any forum before and was content to just scout as a guest. Well. Last November I fulfilled a boyhood fantasy and bought a vintage pick up. I have since, been learning( almost daily it seems) about the joys of owning such a piece of history. I thought it was time to sign up, while looking through this forum the first picture i happen across was a 49 Fargo 1/2 ton...just like mine. i have since speculated mine to be a 50/51 as looking at pictures mine has the later grill, although the registration is 49. though the engine does have a tag that say " remanufactured by the chrysler method" and is dated 1956. Ok, so i have had a pretty lovely intoduction to vintage vehicles thus far. 3 weeks after purchase my head gasket went( the first time). Sad fargo sat for a month while i discovered how much fun it was to find parts for a 25 inch canadian made chrysler 251 flathead 6. Thank you vintagepowerwagons.com. After pulling the head off and discovering the cooling systems was for lack of a better word, Hooped. i set about gathering a new water pump, hoses, gasket set, APR head studs, rotor, cap, plugs, coil, leads,oil, etc. I had the rad flushed, had the head planed and magnafluxed, cleaned the water distribution tube, wire wheeled the top of the block and pistons. blew out all the water out of the intake. got all the crud out ( at least i thought). cleaned up the carb as best i could( so not a carb guy), rebuilt the distributor( ok my dad did) So, old motor, no idea how long it had been like that. Head gasket replacement, to be expected right. ya. ive heard these flatties will blow a gasket from time to time. no worries, i installed studs so a head replacement is no biggie... ok im getting to the point. so my head gasket has gone twice now, and im suspecting its going again. just before the second time, it started making this weird flapping noise, which kinda matches the rpms and then it just gets kinda slower. at first there is no loss of power, then it definitely does. I shut it off before anything came gushing out the tail pipe, as i don't want the rods to hydraulic. First, does anyone know what this noise is? and is there something i can do to help eliminate the possibility of blowing another gasket. Could it be the timing. As it is hard to set by gun, I've been told to "listen" for it. Second, as its like 3 head gaskets in like realistically 3 months, am i fighting a losing battle here. granted there are lots of determining factors , but I've combed through a lot of reading and have tried a lot of things to get it fixed. Don't get me wrong, it runs great when it runs.
  4. So i have my old dodge truck, when i got it the windows in the doors were busted and the weather stripping and whatever was supposed to be in the door to seal the windows and guide them was stripped, i found a website to get parts but i dont know if they are the rite parts and if i can find them any cheaper somewhere else.. this is my first restoration and lets just say i know a ton about this truck but i dont know a lot about the little things on it. its the pilothouse 3 window cab and the doors have the vent window in them so could someone give me a hint on what parts id need for the windows to seal and roll up and down like new? i dont have any parts to reference so im basically starting from scratch. any help would be much appreciated and ill have to post some pics of it now and when i first got it. i started this project as a 6th grader and i am now a senior and entered it in its first car show as of last night! super excited!
  5. so i have my old 1950 dodge b2c and im rebuilding my engine well making it look new again and painting it and cleaning it in the process i am pulling everything apart cleaning and painting things when i took off my distributor i realized that my Vacuum advance on the distributor isnt working i pulled it off and sucked on it surely enough nothing happened and i already rebuilt my distributor and dont feel like buying a whole new one were can i get this part? i went to 3 [parts stores and they had nothing. im hoping this will fix my trucks running issues thank you ! ill [post before and after pics of my engine later for all you interested it looks beautiful for only spending 200 dollars spiffing it up and some elbow grease
  6. hey guys i decided to start a new subject my old one is kinda dead now. so as you all know i have a 1950 b2c with the 218 l 6. i finally got it to run rebuilt the carb today and it wont stay running for more than 5 minutes but still ik it will run once its really hooked up. but now that i have an exhaust system installed on it somewhat. its more quiet at the engine and i have noticed two things. crankshaft pully wobbles a lot. and theres a ticking coming from inside the valve train. so i started the engine and ran it and the weird thing is none of the lifters are stuck they all move freely with the engine running i was actually able to spin the lifters with my fingers they seemed to spin pretty freely is that what the should do and i dont know if the engine is supposed to do that i mean its a 1950 im sure the lifters werent dead silent but any help would be greatly appreciated. all valves open and close i dont have the tools to adjust them and not exactly able to run it long enough to get the engine to temperature. so if they are supposed to spin freely like that when the engine is running what could be making the ticking? i used an oil gun and sprayed thick oil on the lifters and it didnt silence the ticking at all they look like they are getting lubricated. ive been having oil passage problems so im scared to run the engine to long i dont want to break it. basically my oil gauge reads 40-50 and when i unplug that line it spurts oil but when i unhook the line to my oil filter the return and the supply nthing comes out of those two lines so i dont know if just that passage is clogged or something else is. you see if this was an earlier engine the info would be available but like my dad said it being a 1950 and a chrysler we just dont know too much about it. so if you could give me info and tips on how to chase the tick and adjust my valves and just any info you can really. i need every ounce of knowledge i can get!!! thank you all so much ill try and get a video of it maybe and post it or post it on my youtube so you can watch and listen also my enghine has some pretty bad sludge whats a good additive to remove all that??
  7. Hello all ! I am brand new to this site. I've been looking for an old truck for me and my dad for a while. I think I am leaning toward a pilot house. I've searched all the usually places on the net. Seams that trying to find an old pilothouse that's not been monkey'd with is pretty tough. Recently i've seen a couple for sale that had what looked like a row of switches on the dash to the left of the steering wheel. Anyone know what these are for?
  8. OK, the next step on a journey... (thanks Paul) I purchased from an honest type of individual what he considered a "daily Driver". Now that it is here, we have had a chance to rack it and take a look around. We were looking at brakes initially with an eye toward converting to dual-chamber. Then some things caught our eye. Nothing about the last four feet of the frame made sense. The more I looked, the crookeder it got. The more we found, the more dangerous the condition of the vehicle became. I've brought in a professional mechanic (he raised the roof on how it is unsafe and not drivable), two retired mechanics who just laughed (thanks guys), and a professional frame straightener ($cha-ching$) who basically steered me away from even trying to fix this mess directly. I am now at the point where I think I have a few choices. Return the truck for purchase price as it should not be considered a daily driver Straighten what is there ( frame guys says that is pretty hopeless) Buy another '53 frame, splice it onto the back at the cross member just in front of the axle.(cut, splice,align,weld as recommended by the frame specialist) Sue for the cost, plus shipping, plus legal fees and let him have the truck back (not in my nature) Drive it. ( No, I'm not really advocating this) Honestly, I had put a lot of $$ in contingency funding for this build but it was really for paint, interior, rear end changes, disk brakes. I could have it fixed but then I would be where I thought I was three weeks ago with a running vehicle. And I have not started the engine. I open it up to your learned opinions. All comments welcome. You can't hurt my feelings, I'm still laughing at myself. That's healthy right? Mike http://p15-d24.com/gallery/album/232-as-delivered/
  9. Hello all! My 52 stakebed truck is in need of emergency brake work, the pads are shot and it needs adjusting. I have found some e-brake pads for same era cars (all dodge/plymouth of course) will they work instead. help! the noise is driving me crazy!
  10. From the album: 1952 stakebed

    The 52 Stake bed, with its semigloss paint Job!
  11. From the album: 1952 stakebed

    My 52 Dually stakebed..used every day!
  12. File Name: 1948-1949 Dodge Truck Drivers Manual PDF File Submitter: VintageMoParts File Submitted: 14 Jul 2013 File Category: Instructions, Manuals & Templates 60 Page Downloadable PDF Drivers Manual for the 1948-1949 Dodge "Job Rated" Trucks. Series B-1-B and B-1-C These were very detailed manuals and can be very useful in keeping your Pilothouse on the road. Buy more online at www.vintagemoparts.com Click here to download this file
  13. From the album: 1954 Dodge C1B6

  14. From the album: 1954 Dodge C1B6

  15. From the album: 1954 Dodge C1B6

  16. From the album: 1954 Dodge C1B6

  17. Has anyone used the tag feature yet? For instance this post has three tags under the post title. Clicking on one will show you a list of categories on the left. Links, downloads etc. So you can find what you want in that category. Anyway just thinking this may be a way to help members find resources.If we keep them standardized and to a minimum I think it will be a big help. Your thoughts?.
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