MBF

Ford, Divco, and IH used a similar Budd 16" wheel with locking ring up through the mid 60's. The Kaiser Jeep 1 ton military vehicle used the same bolt pattern, but they were still locking ring with a deep offset. There are 17" drop centers used on later Dodge 1 tons, but I believe there are clearance problems with the brake drums on those. This is a real issue for us guys with the 1 tons. There are also at least two different offsets (one for single wheels, one for dual applications) that you may come across. Mike

Should be on one of the reinforcing flanges on the passenger side of the center section. If I remember correctly you can pull the back cover and it will be stamped on the ring gear.

When I did mine, I used the Eastwood version because it was cheaper. I cleaned everything up real good with a preps all solvent. I only used the Eastwood product on the roof and firewall. The inside of the doors were clean so I just used a good aerosol undercoating (also from Eastwood). For the rear of the cab I purchase a roll of double foil backed plastic rolled insulation from Lowes and used an industrial adhesive to attach it. I used a rubber matting on the floor because I didn't want the jute backed material that would hold moisture under the carpet and wanted something that was removable. I'm pleased the way it came out. What really dampened the sound in the cab was the headliner and rear panel. I'm going to do the same with the 2.5 ton that bought late this summer. Mike

Welcome TNVol51. Great looking truck. I'm sure there are folks here that will be of great help. I had a 39 Dodge dump that I really wanted to do something with, but she was too far gone. This is a support network that does regular "Dodge interventions". They've helped me, and I've helped them. This is the only place to go with those tough to answer Dodge questions. Mike

I met GB and his brother at our truck show in Macungie a couple of years back. Very friendly and interesting person to talk to and very knowledgeable about PH's. I miss seeing him on the board. Mike

I was wondering about this. The 1950 JA series x firetruck that I bought has no air intake in the firewall, but has a heater with the defroster control on the left side of the dash. I guess this is just to warm and recirculate the air within the cab while in use. Probably wouldn't want anyone that has eaten a breakfast burrito traveling with you when the heat is on. I couldn't find a replacement air intake for the 1 ton, but I found something very similar as a dryer vent at the local hardware store. I just have to make some type of a damper to control the flow of air in the winter. Mike

Folks: As a follow up. What should have been a 2 hr job on the outside has taken much longer. The NAPA pump listed is the short body pump, not the longer style that was originally on the 251. I thought this would be fine, but after bolting it up, on final assembly, I realized I can't use the original pulley because it rubs on the housing. No problem I thought-I have a larger shallow pulley from a parts truck. That fits, but it is too narrow and too big for the original belt. Then there is the issue of the bypass. The new pump didn't have the cast in bypass nipple like the old one did, so I've been running around trying to find something to use since I didn't have an extra 90 fitting that bolts to the pump. I'm going to try and use a short nipple and galvanized elbow until I can find one. Whoever replaced the pump in the past took a piece of 1" hose and somehow manhandled it onto the bypass nipples-crude-but I guess it worked. I'm saving my core with the longer housing in case I can't get this to work. I don't throw much away. I've overhauled switches, knobs, wiper motors and assemblies, generators, starters, you name it. You gotta be nuts to be a MoPar man-and I guess that fits! Mike

Yea-early to bed, and we're early to rise. Looks like you made it GT! Mike

There was one on ebay a couple of weeks ago for $125. I bought one for my '52 a few yrs back for $40 that was guaranteed not to leak-and it didn't. I keep a spare in my attic in case I need it. I've had some luck repairing these myself. The shops get overzealous sometimes and destroy a repairable radiator trying to hurry the job. I've soldered tanks, and upper neck joints on these w/o incident. I find that filling up the rad with water to just below the area you're trying to repair prevents the heat from going where you don't want it, and protects the surrounding area. Using an acid to clean the surface being repaired is a must to get a good solder job. I took a radiator to a shop from my 78 dodge to a ship many years ago and they accidentally left it in the acid bath overnight-wasn't much left when he pulled it out. He was honest about what happened, and found me another one and repaired it at no charge. Lasted for about 10 yrs. Mike

As a follow up. I picked up my pump today at NAPA for $68.00. The owner told me there are only 8 left in stock at their midwest warehouse. Rather than sit on these and other unsold items they offer them at a reduced rate to classic car parts suppliers who purchase, re-box and mark them up. I'm going to save this for a rebuild core. With the 3 vintage Mopars I have on the road that'll be cheap insurance down the road. NAPA still does sell fuel pumps for these. I bought one for my 36 Plym last year, and the 52 the year before that. Mike

Thanks guys! I saw a pic of the pump you referenced at the local NAPA dealer. Back when I did the pump on the 1 ton, there were two different pumps available (different bypass setups). I got the wrong one-which is the one that I need now with the nipple/elbow, but I'll come up with something after I get it bolted on. Mike

Does anyone know if the waterpumps are interchangeable between the 230 and 251's? NAPA doesn't have a listing for the one for the 251, but I did get one there for the 230 in my 1 ton, and the 218 in my 36 Plymouth. Thanks men for your help! Mike

Thanks GT for all of your help. Here's hoping for a smooth transition. Mike

I cut some rubber strips out of an old truck tube and used them. I was concerned about moisture being held in the seams by any woven material. Mike

You'd think with that much chrome he'd have found a horn ring. Leaving something like that out makes me suspicious.

Years ago my dad was moving an abandoned house about 600' on the property to set it up as a hunting cabin. It got stuck in the middle of the field during the move. I went by the property one night and saw it lit up like someone lived in it except there were no utilities hooked up to it. I pulled in and saw two models sitting in the upstairs windows, and a production company truck behind the house with a generator and lights. I asked if they had permission to be there (I knew they didn't) and they told me that they had talked to the owner. I said ok, I'll call him to make sure. They were outa there in 5 minutes-setup and all. Coulda been a mess-some of the folks were smoking in the house. Here's my 1 ton at a Walmart shoot a couple of years ago. Mike

Justin: I replied in the other thread concerning this swap and I'd like to add some additional comments. In addition to removing the existing brackets on the axle and installing your spring perches, if you're planning on converting to a disk brake setup to the rear of your vehicle, your most likely going to have to do additional updates to your braking system. You'll need a dual reservoir master cylinder which will require fabricating some brackets, add a proportioning valve setup, plumbing in new brake lines, and most likely a vacuum assist. I would also not take the sellers word that it "looks good". Before buying a rear or front axle you want to look at it closely and pop the cover to see check out the internals. Looking good won't mean much if you've got to go through the differential. I'd pass. Mike

Mine was a firetruck in its original life in Chicopee, MA. Maybe that's why the ss strips. I've seen a 52 old firetruck that had the stainless whiskers and parking light housings sitting in a junkyard. Must have been an option on the big trucks. Mike

Stumpy, I just bought this B2JA a couple of months ago w 18K original miles. Its also a 5 +2 w a 251. The dump body works fine, but I think I'm going to replace it with a flatbed to match my 1 ton. I just installed the parking lights tonight. Can you post some more pics of the front of your truck? What size rubber are you running on the it? Mike

Ditto-I bought mine from Roberts and that was over 10 yrs ago. Still looks fine. Mike

I shot my 1 ton w Rustoleum about 7-8 years ago, maybe longer. It was in primer for a few years, but the problem with that is anytime you touched it you left fingerprints. My paint was by no means perfect, but after buffing and some regular waxing it still looks good, but it isn't a show quality job. The truck sits in a garage, and rarely sees the rain. I understand that by adding a hardener to the Rustoleum you can improve the quality and durability of the paint job. I may try that with the '50 2.5 ton that I bought this summer. A few battle scars give these trucks a good look. I did see Graybeards roller painted 1/2 ton in Macungie a few years ago, that was a labor intensive, but really nice looking paint job. He documented his story in an old discussion thread. Mike

I've got a B1D myself with the 4.3 rears. Its my understanding that the highest ratio made for this dually was a 3.9. I can run comfortably at an indicated 45 (GPS says 47) with my 4.3. She'll do more, but that is what I feel comfortable with. Doing simple math the 3.9 would give you about 10% higher road speeds and if you can find a good center section you can do the swap in less than an hour. If you're looking to keep the 6 lug Budd rims I don't think a hub/rotor assembly is available in that bolt pattern for disk brakes. One could probably be made but they you've got to address the issues of clearance between the caliper assembly and the inside of the Budd rim. The Wagoneer axle doesn't have the 6 lug pattern you need or offer a dually capability. If you're going to keep it a 1 ton with the wheels you've got, your options are somewhat limited. I had thought about converting mine to a 5 lug 3/4 ton setup, but it wouldn't look right. I've learned to appreciate it for what it is and drive it whenever I can. Mike

Wally: Good story. How long was the addition to the arm? Mike

If you're going to jump a 6 v vehicle w 12 volts, I strongly advise removing 1 battery cable from the 6 v battery to remove it from the circuit. Putting 12 V through a dead 6volt battery may result in an explosion in the 6v battery. This is especially likely if the 6 v is low on electrolyte and/or internally shorted. I've done this myself - just once. When the vehicle starts disconnect the 12V and reconnect the terminal on the 6v that was removed. It only takes a tiny spark to ignite the hydrogen gas in the cell. Remember the Hindenburg video????

Nice looking truck!