MBF

Looz, you broke the stud off the input side of the circuit breaker for the headlight switch. I don't know if I'd trust repairing that. A replacement should be available at NAPA, but if you're leaving the truck 6 volts, tell them that. Amp load on a 6 volt system is twice that of a 12v counterpart. There may be an amp rating on the cover. If you can't find one, let me know and I'll check to see if I have used one. I wouldn't hook up the headlights w/o the breaker in case you have a problem. A temporary fix would be to use a 30 amp inline fuse but that'll only work-once. Neat toy-I bought a tractor like that at a truck show last year. Mike

I'd say the same thing!

WOW. Great job!

I would think that a good NAPA dealer could look these up for you. If not, there is Vintage Power Wagons, and I think that Roberts Motor Parts also sells them. Mike

I probably have $15K total in all 3 of my Dodges in a financial sense, and I have a ton of time in them. The payback on my investement is the enjoyment I have taking them to cruises and truck shows or just driving them. I don't compete for or want any trophies. When I'm gone and its time to disburse my stuff I don't know or care what they'll net my estate. Its all about fun and memories. American Pickers, Gas Monkey, Chasing Classic Cars are all taking what was once an affordable hobby into a Wall Street mentality.

Not sure about the adapter. He had the actuating lever held over by a loop of wire that had slipped somewhat so whatever range it was in it wasn't doing anything. Seems like one set of gears is worn, maybe because it wasn't fully engaged. I haven't messed with the adapter. I was working to get rid of the oversized dump body he had on it, and get the flatbed installed and cut down. There is good vacuum to the unit that I blocked off when I removed it and hooked the cable direct. When we get through this last round of snow we're supposed to get today I'll dig into it further. I know the speedo in the 1 ton is almost right on, so my son and I are going to take both of them out this weekend with another speedo head and see what that shows. The cable was a NOS unit I installed when I removed the adapter. Thanks for the suggestions guys, I've never seen a weak flux capacitor -they're usually either good or bad.

No-the two speed mechanism behind the speedo was removed. I'm concerned that the speedo appears to be reading slow, but the odometer is recording 12 miles on a known 2 mile run. I walk that route every day so I know it's 2 miles. I don't understand how the odometer could be running so fast when the speedo isn't. I'll be changing oil every couple of weeks if I rely on this speedo. I dismanted another one and ran it with a drill and I don't see why the odo is running so fast. I wonder if the 10ths indicator is seized to the last digit of the miles indicator? Does that sound possible?

I bought a pair at our truck show in Macungie, PA that were supposedly off a Jeep CJ. They were a perfect match-I just had to paint them black. He either had them labeled incorrectly, or didn't know what he had. I paid $3.00 each for them and didn't even bother to haggle.

Well, after 6 months of work I put the 49 on the road today and took it on its maiden voyage. It's been a fun project so far cleaning up the vehicle, replacing a lot of the wiring harness, water pump and converting it from a dump to a flatbed. The shakedown went well-I made it out and back unassisted. One thing that surpised me is the speedo. I removed the two speed mechanism on the back of the speedo (wasn't working) and connected the cable directly to the speedometer drive. Going down the road, it appears that the speedo is reading a bit slow, but the odometer is accumulating miles like crazy and recording tenths as miles or maybe even more . I have other units on the shelf, and opened one up to see what is in there. I don't see what is causing this. I'm inclined to replace the speedo, but I really don't want to as this truck was a former firetruck that obviously has low miles on it. I did check the 2 speed drive unit when I removed it and it appears that in high range that that it is very close to a 1:1 ratio, which is why I figured I'd be okay hooking the cable up to the back of the speedo. Any suggestions as to what could be causing the slow read on the speedo and the high odometer readings?

I think White Post will install a brass sleeve for less that $100. I'd send the one you have in inventory out to have it done and do a swap when it comes back. I'm sure there are others that will perform this service. Mike

I scrapped a junk engine last year and got about $30.00 for it. I had pretty much stripped it of any useful parts. If it isn't running you won't know what you've got until you open it up. Offer him half, and tell him what it'll bring in scrap and go from there.

Maybe use a spark plug boot? I have 1 of the originals that I just put on my 2.5 ton last weekend. It has a long metal snout on it with a thin rubber boot that goes over the snout. They just don't make 'em like they used to...

Thank you for the sacrifices you are making to serve our country. God bless and be safe. My nephew deployed over there this past week. Oh yea, real nice truck! Mike

This may seem like a stupid question, but I just gotta ask. Isn't that head on backwards or am I missing something? MBF

I agree w Dodgeb4ya. Looking at the right side pic it appears that the right rear wheel is slightly turned to the right which could indicate a broken centerbolt, spring mount or too short a main leaf on the driver's side rear. That is one nice looking truck. I like your paint scheme on your rims-that's just what I did with mine. Mike

I usually use a never sieze on the plugs on the flatties. I've had good luck (so far knock on wood) in filling the wells w PB blaster to get old plugs out. I still have to do this on the 50 2.5 ton that I'm working on. Good success story on getting that bugger out!

Thanks guys. That was quick! Greatly appreciated.

My parts manual is 48-49. Does anyone have a 1950 version? Looking for the above p/n's for my 2.5 tonner. Thanks. Mike

I've been looking for some 5 lug 20" Budds for my 1950 2.5 ton. I found a yard that has what I need, but he also has an IH bus with 5 lug 19.5's w radials on the drop center rims. Does anyone know if the smaller rims will fit over the drums on my truck? I like the idea of the drop centers and was wondering if anyone has done this swap before. All of the rims are still mounted on the bus and it'd be great if I don't have to do a swap to see if they'll fit. If they won't, I'll go for the locking ring 20's. I really only need the two outers for the rear-mine are rustjacked, but I'd buy all 6 if they'd fit. Thanks Mike

Yea, that's definitely bigger than my 2.5 tonner (longer hood, larger wheel flares, 10 lug Budds), but boy it sure looks like a great starting place. Good luck.

I have regular Chrysler ballast resistors for the heater motors in both my 1 ton and 36 Plymouth. Fan seeds about the same as they were when they were 6 volts. Haven't burned a motor or resistor since I did this several years ago.

Chris: I've got a 1 ton, and a 1/2 ton parts truck. I believe the steering boxes are the same between the two so there isn't anything to gain there. The one ton axle brings with it the heavier spindles that use the 6 lug Budd type wheels which there aren't a lot of replacements for. Unless you can find a replacement spindle that will fit the 1 ton axle (I would imagine that there is one) you're kind of locked in. I also have a 2.5 ton that I'm working on. That has a heavier box but it also takes up a bit more real estate under the hood so that may be an issue. Mike

In stock form these vehicles were designed with the steering gear, tires, and brakes of the time. I'm also happy at 40-50mph cruising speed they were designed for-just in case I have to stop or steer. I'm not a purist by any means, but my vehicles are stock and I try to run them where they were designed to run. Just my 2 cents. Mike

I just did one for my 1 ton. I ended up taking the switch apart and finding the input to the center post, once I did that I just cycled the switch to determine which were the left and right side feeds and marked them. I always liked that particular style switch. Very period correct.

I know pretty much what my parts cost, its the time thing that puts you way in over your head. I'm not doing it for the money and I'd do it again, just like almost everybody else on here. There worse things you could do with your time that would cost alot more.