Jump to content

9 foot box

Members
  • Posts

    638
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    15

Everything posted by 9 foot box

  1. I suggested that a week ago. Our car first gear ratio is 2.57, higher than a truck three speed gearing. 2.47 is high but I think the torque of a flathead engine would offset that. Nothings going to happen for awhile, if Tony got his scheduled new hip today. Classic car database.com.
  2. I was reading LostVikings thread before he deleted his posts. When he got the OD transmission in, it stopped short of the adapter plate. He did have to sleeve the release bearing to fit the front bearing retainer. It will be good to talk to Dan Brewer again about a possible 2.66 first gear change and what other parts would be needed in that change. The cars that used that transmission were most likely geared 3.23. You won’t be hauling any loads or stopping on uphill grades. I’d run what you got and determine if you need any gear change after driving it for awhile. Rick D.
  3. Except for the e-brake on light, the other parts seem to be for a car with an overdrive transmission. Or a M-5 or 6 that I’m not familiar with. Rick D.
  4. This is a column from a 53 B4B. The shifter support had broken off and was separate. I put it together today according to the three spot welds that had broke. All correction should be done with the gear shift in a neutral position. I would loosen the lock nut, pull the retainer clip and turn the threaded adjuster down to remove any free play in the selector link. When the adjuster pin fits into the lever, with the slack removed, you should be able to get 1st and reverse. Any engine or body mount changes will effect shift linkage on a column shift.
  5. You need to use the starter model number to get parts. Some shafts are straight spline and others spiral. I found this page from an old post.
  6. I have a Stant 13928 in my 47. Or you can use a NAPA THM155 or Gates 33028. They are 180 degree, use thread sealant on the two bolts. The thermostat that you have could be used on an internal or external bypass. A Motorad 218-180 is for the external bypass housing, like you have.
  7. I’ve been going to reply about the amount of springs in your build and an easy way to pull the pins. But you’ll figure it out. I would enlarge the WDT to fit the bore and the output of the water pump.
  8. I wired my six volt OD like the lower George Asche schematic. Your solenoid has to be 12 volt. It will be stamped on the body. My transmission came from a 52 Dodge fluid drive, so I had to change the input shaft. I don’t know why you couldn’t wire it the same way, and use all the features of the transmission. I’m reluctant to give advice on OD’s, because a relay could stick or you can’t disengage OD till you switch the ignition switch off. 99% of the time my wiring works just fine, but I know what to do if it doesn’t respond correctly.
  9. A manifold set is fit to the block by a sequential tightening of the nuts and bolts. The front and rear exhaust manifold nuts should be cone nuts with concave washers. It allows for expansion and contraction of the exhaust manifold. The toughest nut and washer is the 13th, under the center intake manifold. All studs go into the water jacket and need thread sealant. I recently cleaned up a manifold that had been installed wrong.
  10. Put a half inch bolt with a centering hole in the head in the column, so the tension bolt doesn’t wander to the side. I made this, that worked well. It has a 1.550” hole in the center. It’s two forked plates that fit together left and right. I have a 10” lathe and four jaw chuck to bore the hole so it was a perfect fit to the column and the bottom of the steering wheel. No damage to the steering wheel or threads with my puller and a center bolt.
  11. Roofus has his own way of testing a generator. This is the Service Manual procedure for a motoring test. The generator that is as clean as what you say yours is could be fine. The field coil in the regulator could be at fault, there’s a test for that too, it’s in the Manual. I could ground my field wire to show a charge, but it had to be grounded again every time I restarted. I replaced the regulator.
  12. I thought I should mention that the front and rear drums have different numbers. The 100 front and 106 rear numbers are for the drum w/o hub, according to my parts book. The other drums that fit, are for Nash and Kaiser. I have a front drum from a 48 Plymouth and a rear axle from a 53 Suburban. I’ll have to compare the drums on a flat surface. Ply33 is a good resource. Side view of front and rear drums for a P15. The center hole and bolt holes are larger than the hub, it needs the five rivets to keep it centric.
  13. Google “t137 engines” and it will tell you how to use the engine number and the model designation on your drivers door data plate. To narrow it down when there are two engine sizes, you need to remove the 1/8” pipe plug over number 6 cylinder, and measure the stroke. 4.250”-237, 4.500”-251, 4.766”-265c.i. The Chrysler flathead six fuel pump has a staggered bolt pattern.
  14. If you Google “T137 Autolite cross reference” it might help you decide which VR you need.
  15. It sounds like the field is grounded. The VR should be for positive ground, what is the part number?
  16. Bkahler bought his repair kit from Ricardo Cavallero SRL. I found Power Brake X-Change in Pittsburg will rebuild your Gemmer steering box for about the same price. If you don’t have a press and tools to change out the bearing races and pin in the cross shaft, it’s something to consider.
  17. The sending unit that DCM Classics sells is similar to what you have. Their installation instructions says if it doesn’t work with both wires connected, leave #2 wire connected to the center post, ground the other terminal to the frame and leave the #1 wire disconnected.
  18. There is a service manual online for 36-42 Plymouth. pwchryslerclub.org resources
  19. Desert Valley Auto Parts has a 41 DeSoto with the engine still in it. Maybe your correspondence with them, will get you the parts you need. There are a couple original print 41 DeSoto service manuals specific to the S-8 on eBay.
  20. My guess is that it was modified for an amputee. This picture is from a “36 Plymouth pedal assembly” that was on eBay. Rick
  21. When looking for distributor parts, use the use the model number. IAP-4103A-1 for instance, not the 1300795 part number. I have two distributors with those numbers.
  22. I think your clutch plate is stuck to the flywheel. Readjust the clutch linkage for 1” of free play at the pedal. With the clutch pedal depressed put the transmission in high gear and bump the starter pedal with the key off.
  23. I went and dumped grass and garbage at the container site today. There was a 56-57 Dodge cab and a box. I got these parts off the box. I have an original left light with the adapter plate, so I need to buy a right side light, this plate will align the new light to the bracket with the narrow mounting holes. Parts is parts, so I grabbed the chain closures. The cab had two top corner cab lights, I sprayed with PB and I’ll see if they’re still there tomorrow. The tools are in the truck. DCM Classics show jc’s bracket is for a high side box. I know these parts aren’t right for a W series, but they were there, before they go into the iron pile. Rick D.
  24. I replied to echodan about his coil, no reply. If you have the separate 643819 bracket, I agree that it is an easy fix. Guess who has the best price for the bracket. Good going, bacelaw.
  25. I have that taller manifold for an engine going into a 47 WD21 that I’m working on. I like it for the higher flow and the disc at the bottom to atomize the gas better. I have one from another W series truck, without the disc. A S15 Desoto 251 that I have has the tall intake, as does the 49 Chrysler Spitfire in my 47 flatbed. I haven’t taken the carburetors off to see if there is a diffuser disc. The manifold is 47 and earlier in my opinion, and used on the one ton 230. The 251 engines had the taller intake port at least till 1952. The B series truck engines that I have, are short intake, like my cars. Your manifold appears to have the disc. I can only presume that atomizing the gas at the single port at the center of the block would be an improvement in performance or fuel efficiency and keeping the gas suspended in the intake manifold for the other cylinders to intake.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use