9 foot box

I don’t have that vacuum tool. And don’t know what I’d do with it. Seems like it should have heavier tubing for suction. I did rob a vacuum pump from a refrigerator as a vacuum source for checking wiper motors and advance mechanism’s on distributors. When I saw that the pin on the advance plate had a groove for a retainer, I figured that an e-clip was the way to insure that the arm stayed on the pin. Seems to work, I’ll leave it on. I’ll save that one wire retainer that was used before e-clips were invented. They used cotter pins and horseshoe clips when our vehicles were built. Thanks for the input.

I have some distributors as spares. The original retainer clip looks like this, I lost one and replaced it with an e-clip from the hardware store selection. The arm isn’t going to jump off the pin, it’s just what I did. Rick D.

You could call them or email to determine if it’s correct to your measurements. They had responded to my inquiry’s in the past. Rick D.

There is no mention of you priming your oil pump when you put the engine together. That’s mandatory to getting oil pickup from the floating screen in the pan with at least 4 quarts of oil. You don’t have an oil filter on the engine in your picture. I recommend mounting a Wix 24755 spin-on filter adapter. I mount mine a bit higher and rearward to clear throttle and shift linkage and easier access to the dip stick. I use a 1320 filter. Sam has a post on his mounting, I changed it bit and made my own flare fittings on the lines for my relocation of the filter. With the various aftermarket by-pass filters and gaskets, I know that a spin-on is performing as it should, doesn’t leak and it’s easier to replace. Rick D.

I looked at the DVAP website and searched their inventory for a 53 Plymouth. They have 15 cars and I saw 5 that had a trunk handle. What engine and transmission are you using? That’s quite a project. Good luck. Rick D.

I have a few adapters to grease problem fittings. If you can get the fitting to take grease, you can fix it later, but it’s greased. I’d guess that there are other things that need your attention, make a to do list and get a service manual. You don’t say what model coupe. Pictures would be nice to see your new car. Rick D.

I’ve had the holes in the throttle body plugged with carbon before. I tried cleaning it and compressed air, but eventually hot water with a couple tablespoons of citric acid powder in an ultrasonic cleaner freed the blockage. You should have a base gasket like this so the base port gets vacuum from the manifold. You might have to lengthen the linkage that’s connected to the carburetor. Just a couple thoughts on why the idle jet doesn’t respond to adjustment. Rick D.

Desert Valley Auto Parts in Casa Grande has a few 53 Plymouths in their inventory on their web site. That’s the first place that I would go to, for parts for your car. I would do it in person, not on the phone. Rick D.

Watsons-Streetworks.com is one vendor that has an under dash toggle to operate the turn signals. It would be inconspicuous and keep a clean steering column.

My wife’s uncle is Roland Wiench. He built a 77 El Camino EV. My BIL has the car now. It’s probably old technology now. I don’t know much about it, but he had the neutral safety switch oriented slightly off to prevent unauthorized operation. We trailered it after figuring that out. I still have a box of the old cables that he used to connect the original battery configuration, then he changed to a stackable plate style battery pack as technology advanced. Your donor car probably has tech that Roland pioneered. I have his commercial sewing machine that I have learned to use. RIP Roland. Rick D.

I suggested that a week ago. Our car first gear ratio is 2.57, higher than a truck three speed gearing. 2.47 is high but I think the torque of a flathead engine would offset that. Nothings going to happen for awhile, if Tony got his scheduled new hip today. Classic car database.com.

I was reading LostVikings thread before he deleted his posts. When he got the OD transmission in, it stopped short of the adapter plate. He did have to sleeve the release bearing to fit the front bearing retainer. It will be good to talk to Dan Brewer again about a possible 2.66 first gear change and what other parts would be needed in that change. The cars that used that transmission were most likely geared 3.23. You won’t be hauling any loads or stopping on uphill grades. I’d run what you got and determine if you need any gear change after driving it for awhile. Rick D.

Except for the e-brake on light, the other parts seem to be for a car with an overdrive transmission. Or a M-5 or 6 that I’m not familiar with. Rick D.

This is a column from a 53 B4B. The shifter support had broken off and was separate. I put it together today according to the three spot welds that had broke. All correction should be done with the gear shift in a neutral position. I would loosen the lock nut, pull the retainer clip and turn the threaded adjuster down to remove any free play in the selector link. When the adjuster pin fits into the lever, with the slack removed, you should be able to get 1st and reverse. Any engine or body mount changes will effect shift linkage on a column shift.

You need to use the starter model number to get parts. Some shafts are straight spline and others spiral. I found this page from an old post.

I have a Stant 13928 in my 47. Or you can use a NAPA THM155 or Gates 33028. They are 180 degree, use thread sealant on the two bolts. The thermostat that you have could be used on an internal or external bypass. A Motorad 218-180 is for the external bypass housing, like you have.

I’ve been going to reply about the amount of springs in your build and an easy way to pull the pins. But you’ll figure it out. I would enlarge the WDT to fit the bore and the output of the water pump.

I wired my six volt OD like the lower George Asche schematic. Your solenoid has to be 12 volt. It will be stamped on the body. My transmission came from a 52 Dodge fluid drive, so I had to change the input shaft. I don’t know why you couldn’t wire it the same way, and use all the features of the transmission. I’m reluctant to give advice on OD’s, because a relay could stick or you can’t disengage OD till you switch the ignition switch off. 99% of the time my wiring works just fine, but I know what to do if it doesn’t respond correctly.

A manifold set is fit to the block by a sequential tightening of the nuts and bolts. The front and rear exhaust manifold nuts should be cone nuts with concave washers. It allows for expansion and contraction of the exhaust manifold. The toughest nut and washer is the 13th, under the center intake manifold. All studs go into the water jacket and need thread sealant. I recently cleaned up a manifold that had been installed wrong.

Put a half inch bolt with a centering hole in the head in the column, so the tension bolt doesn’t wander to the side. I made this, that worked well. It has a 1.550” hole in the center. It’s two forked plates that fit together left and right. I have a 10” lathe and four jaw chuck to bore the hole so it was a perfect fit to the column and the bottom of the steering wheel. No damage to the steering wheel or threads with my puller and a center bolt.

Roofus has his own way of testing a generator. This is the Service Manual procedure for a motoring test. The generator that is as clean as what you say yours is could be fine. The field coil in the regulator could be at fault, there’s a test for that too, it’s in the Manual. I could ground my field wire to show a charge, but it had to be grounded again every time I restarted. I replaced the regulator.

I thought I should mention that the front and rear drums have different numbers. The 100 front and 106 rear numbers are for the drum w/o hub, according to my parts book. The other drums that fit, are for Nash and Kaiser. I have a front drum from a 48 Plymouth and a rear axle from a 53 Suburban. I’ll have to compare the drums on a flat surface. Ply33 is a good resource. Side view of front and rear drums for a P15. The center hole and bolt holes are larger than the hub, it needs the five rivets to keep it centric.

Google “t137 engines” and it will tell you how to use the engine number and the model designation on your drivers door data plate. To narrow it down when there are two engine sizes, you need to remove the 1/8” pipe plug over number 6 cylinder, and measure the stroke. 4.250”-237, 4.500”-251, 4.766”-265c.i. The Chrysler flathead six fuel pump has a staggered bolt pattern.

If you Google “T137 Autolite cross reference” it might help you decide which VR you need.

It sounds like the field is grounded. The VR should be for positive ground, what is the part number?