oldmopar

Sounds like a good site to stay away from,just another person that wants to put their hand in your pocket

Not sure about the technical terms but it has to do with the inside of the wheel. I have a 48 B1D it has 16" wheels, mine are and yours should be loose ring not split rims. Any real truck shop can handle loose ring. But back to wheels I also have a 59 W200 that has 17.5 wheels I tried putting the wheels on my Pilot-House and also found the newer 17.5 wheels do not fit the rear. I did actually get them on but had to take a 4lb hammer and pry bar to get them off. The older wheels are larger inside by about a 1/2" I think forget the exact measurements mostly because the drum is smaller on the newer (1959) truck or larger on the 1 to Pilot-house however you want to say it.

Well if you are just selling them at a low price to help out then yes that can be annoying. Problem may be with shipping cost from Canada to US. The same headaches and even more come up when you sell on ebay.

My 2 cents I have sold parts for years and that is the way it goes all part of the business after all you do make money on parts . Complaining to potential customers is never a good thing.

The 1 ton 6 lug early 60's fords and the mopars of that era used the same wheel pattern so the wheels should be the same. If you were closer I would buy the wheels as i am pretty sure they would fit my dodge power giants but its a little to far from new jersey

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Not sure if the rear is the same but I had to replace a front one from my truck and found that the shock mount from a car is the same. So if no one has one from a truck try a car. Mine came from a 49 Plymouth P18

should be the loose ring (Photo) as Mike said maybe split is full of ditt,rust,paint then again who knows what happen over the years as I think the 1 ton should be 6 lugs. From what I see Canidian trucks only have 1/2 ton and a 3/4- 1 ton models see photos

Welcome to the forum Post a photo of your truck if you can The link below can explain the air ride seat better then I can . This is actually for the pick ups but hopefully its what you are looking for http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/dodge_preview/imgcol/_00005.htm

That is a good nice to see someone appreciates the work you put into your truck. As for the photos we already know what you truck looks like so just post the photos of the models

Here is a link that should help. scroll down a little for diagrams http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/wiring_harness/wiring.htm

Be sure to check the id of the spindle and axle eye as there was 2 different sizes used the switch look like it occurred during the B2 series.

I do not know about your disc brake kit but the part number for your inner bearing is698410 that crosses to a NAPA # br14130 and if this link works it gives you the cone id and width of the napa part http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=BRGBR14130_0213122363

I most likely missed the thread in question as i have been spending more time on the other side since I have been playing with a Pilot-House I picked up last year. However in general forums are made up of people for the most part we never know or see and the hidden nature sometimes make a avenue for comments that would not be said face to face (computer tough guys?). I see this on other forums beside here and in a environment like this you need to be a little thick skinned and ignore things you cannot control. I would not let someone I did not like make me leave a party well same logic here. I think on this forum you can block members post you do not wnat to see.

I just put mine back together so can't get a measurement but it took a .796 dia. kingpin if that is any help.

http://www.maritimedragracing.com/antique_auto_parts_cellar.htm

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Bowl is to collect sediment there should be a screen at the top where it connects to the pump

The numbers you had given were airtex number they cross over to napa M2090 and M2091 The engines have not changed so either pump should work (B,C, D use the same pump) ,looking at the photos on the napa site they show what looks like a difference in the size of the fuel bowl. I know for the 217 engine there was a pump with and with out a fuel bowl.

As Dave said it has a loop in it. I use a straight preflared line from NAPA I forget what size maybe 24". It took some adjusting but got it too fit, just be sure you do not kink it. I think VPW sells a preformed line for that connection.

I think I still have one of the free 5 cell flashlights radio shack use to give away in the 70's

You ask the internet provides http://americandreamcars.com/1958ambassadorwagon0709.htm

Yes same for the rears should be in about the same place as the ones in the front

The float or needle valve(thing with the rubber tip) could have hung up. best thing would be to rebuild the carb kit should be about $25-$35 not hard to rebuild comes with instructions. I forget the part number but I am sure someone here will have it.

That is what I was trying to explain in my last post the adjustment nut on the backing plate turns a cam that moves the toe of the shoe close or from the drum. If that cam is not working it may be damage in which case it will need to be repaired. This is much easier to see when the shoes are off