oldmopar

The casting numbers would seem to indicate sept,14,1950 as to the numbers it may be a replacement engine. On my 48 the engine number pad is blank as it was never stamped (it is not the original engine). As long as it is a dodge flathead and your not rebuilding external parts on the 217 and 230 interchange but I would get the number off the distributer and use that when ordering points

There should be a letter before the numbers, also on the left side down by there starter there should be a casting date see link below http://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/otherengines.php

10x2 would fit a truck with 10" front drums and 2" would be the width. The actual length of the shoe I think would be a little longer then 10" Pretty sure this only the front brakes of a 1/2 ton

I saw it on craigslist and it was something a little different as it is a 1 ton dump with best I can tell the original dump body

The front and rear brakes on the one ton should have the same adjustment nuts There are the 2 on the bottom the anchor bolts and then 2 on the rear of the backing plate which are also used for a minor adjustment. Be sure that the adjustment nuts on the backing plate are actually turning the cam sometimes they brake and the nut will turn but the cam does not move against the shoe

There should be a tag on the inside of the drivers door on the post that will tell you what model the truck is. http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/vin/model.htm

On the 1 ton the ammco will work on the front but not the rears have a 14" (maybe a little larger ,forget )drum I think the miller works but there maybe a separate tool for the truck ? Desoto1939 may have the answer. On the rears on my 1 ton I just did a adjustment the best I could with the drum 1/2 on and used a feeler gauge. However since I am still in the process of putting my steering back together,picking up the last tire rod from napa tomorrow. I have not road tested it yet.

They are fun trucks parts are available they are easy to work on figure about 50-60 as top speed depending on what rear you have Try this link to get started (It's also on the top menu bar http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/index.htm

If you reline it yourself how do you adhere it to the metal band.

at 50 cents it would be a good deal if you lived in klamath falls, OR,

I think I paid about $15 for my copy but you can but me down for another if they reprint Ed

I would add a flashlight,knife and fire extinguisher but most often what ever you do not have you will need so maybe just a cell phone.

I picked up a drag link on ebay a few months ago. it was a nors item. I installed it today. Not sure who would have it I know napa has them but gets $300 + . This was made by TRW and part # is DS511 not sure if it is still available just putting it out here as another possible option,

The bolt sets shown in the photo are also sold by sears so you may want to check their prices also. Have you tried getting at from underneath the truck you may have more room to work. Other thought although I have not tried it there is a freeze spray that is supposed to loosen parts same idea as a torch but maybe safer to use in the space you are working in.

I had one on a 52 p23 and yes it is easier and less of a mess I sold the car last spring no complaints from the buyer .

The large cylinder bore faces the rear of the vehicle, small cylinder bore side faces the front is the way it was explained to me. Try VPW for the lock ring and nut see link below http://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/pdf/parts/13wheels.pdf

I have got the bearings through rockauto there are timpkin bearings napa should also have them. I thought I saved the part #'s can't find it now but will look in the garage tomorrow I think the empty boxes are still in the truck. Vintage power wagons should have the other parts your need if you cannot find them someplace else. They are not the cheapest source but they have most everything except the brake shoes for the rear. The shoes for the early power wagons are almost the the same as our but I think a 1/4" smaller in width

The number for the flange gasket is 4390 as I recall you need 2 per side. The seal may come with one gasket maybe both I think it depends who makes it. Also be sure to clean repack and check the bearings (replace if necessary) I found the the holes in the flange were packed with crud so I cleaned them out and chased the threads before before using them to remove the flange. You need about 3 feet for the axle half's so be sure you are not too close to a wall when you remove the axles

There was a thread on the car side a while back I think last year about some chevy head bolt that would work. I do not remember exactly what they were maybe someone will read this and remember.

I would pull the drums its not that hard and when I removed my rear drums on one side the shoe lining fell off, the glue or what ever was used to bond the lining must have dried out also the wheel cylinders were in poor condition. The front brakes were ok but I also replaced them.

I think the bolts are 3/8 , The axle comes out with the the cap . Nothing pops out but you will have to remove the outer seal, 2 nuts ,a bearing some washers, you need the correct axle nut wrench I forget the size I think 2 9/16" or the alternate method is a chisel or screw driver. After that the drum comes off If you replace the seals NAPA # rear inner 28116 outer 20766. Wheel cylinders should be the same as the front I use raybestos 3595,3596

I do not think many states check the frame # so I would not confuse the local dmv people with any details and just give then the minimum information which would be the vin/serial # on the tag. Where I am in NJ all you do is bring in a title and they give you a new one.

I would add to what Zeke1953 said that I use preformed lines from napa and a few couplings to put them together. The wheel and master cylinders can be purchased from napa, rockauto ,roberts and others as new or rebuild kits. I just get all new parts for the wheel cylinders and either replace or rebuild the master depending on its condition. You also will need to replace 3 brake hoses 2 front and one going to the rear axle vent. Once you go this far you also should clean repack and replace the wheel bearings and seals front and rear.

Hank like I said in a previous there is nothing wrong with the dot 3 it has been used for many years in many vehicles with no problems. Not really knowledgeable with Castrol's products but if they do not make a silicone of course they would not recommended it. Like so many things with our vehicles your choice of brake fluid is your choice and there are people on both side that would argue which is better. There is no perfect solution the dot 5 works for me so I use it However I do not like to tempt fate and would not as young ed did and switch without at least flushing. I am a fanatic on brakes especially with single cylinder masters and my vehicles do not go on the road unless I completely check and usually replace all parts of the brake system. Yes we do have a independent hand brake system but again that is only a good back up if adjusted and in good working conition

The dot 5 is called silicone not synthetic. The Dot 5 silicone main advantage is that it does not absorb water as easily as the dot 3-4 variety and helps our infrequently used vehicles brake system parts last longer. It does not damage paint but that is just a side effect gain. There is nothing wrong with the dot 3 -4 fluid but its tendency to absorb moisture can sometimes cause problems more so if you do not drive your truck often. But that can usually be solved by just stepping on the brakes a few times maybe once a week and flushing the system with new fluid every few years. Here are a link that may help http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DOT_5