oldmopar

Are you sure the fluid is not purple I have used dot 5 silicone over the past 6-8 years in about a 1/2 dozen vehicles and purchased it from at least 3 different manufactures and all was a purple color. Which makes sense to protect the system from getting mixed. In any case I would not use any that was clear as it could cause problems.

It does get confusing but what you are using is a synthetic Dot 3 style fluid The dot 5 I am speaking about is a purple color. From Castrol.com "Castrol GTLMA Brake Fluid's unique Low Moisture Activity (LMA) formulation provides maximum protection against vapor lock brake failure when compared to leading DOT 3 brake fluids. It is recommended for all anti–lock braking systems (ABS), hydraulic drum and disc braking systems, and hydraulic clutches requiring DOT 3 and DOT 4".

Dot 3 is good for your setup, you could also use dot 4 which is compatible with dot 3. I personally prefer dot 5 silicone fluid but I replace every brake component including the steel lines. The dot 5 will cause problems if mixed with other fluids and the system at a minimum needs to be flushed with a brake cleaning product and all rubber parts should be replaced. If you do not know the history of the truck you should pull all the drums and check the brake linings I have seen more then once the old adhesive break down and the shoes come loose.

May not be the cheapest alternative but I had purchased some steel from metals depot for a project. The have a large selection and its delivered to your door http://www.metalsdepot.com/

That is a great resource to see inside the engine. I see what looks like a chain and a electric motor so I guess the engine also can be seen in operation ?

I found this in a 40 or 41 radio magazine and thought it may be of some interest. I also have a link to it on my web site. Skyway Antenna

I installed a 6 volt electric fuel pump in my 52 Suburban and will swap the truck over to one when it needs replace. I used a Airtex E8011 got it from rockauto for about $50.00 but it should also be available at local auto parts.

153624

When I finish my truck would I to to add a hitch and since my truck like yours is a 1 ton I have the solution Thanks

What year blazer/s10

I know you said you did not want another truck but Here is a 77 D600 not to far from you that should be able to pull a trailer http://www.dodgesweptline.org/phorum/read.php?6,5922

As you did not say what model you have the kits work for 1/2 & 3/4 Ton with 5 studs not the larger trucks.

I installed a set of Gabriel 81147 on the front of my 48 B1D. They had the same compressed and extended as what was I removed. I got them from amazon for about $35 including shipping

The one in my truck had a bend but not as bad as you described. I was able to straighten it with my press.

The explanation for the bearings was a help the TS TB bearing type had me confused. I do plan to remove the pin 1st and see what is there. I know they were using the nylon in the later 50's but by 59 there was a service bulletin to replace them with the metal bushings. Ed

Using the 2 King Pin #'s from NAPA as Merle posted in a previous thread "Anyway, here's what I discovered. (some Napa P/N's for anyone's reference) King Pin sets; Napa P/N 2621231 for up to Serial # 83351873 (list price $116.06) Napa P/N 2621378 for Serial # 8331874 and up (list price $75.73) These serial number breaks match what's in my parts manual. (P/N 933436 up through S/N 83351873 and P/N 1321261 for S/N's after 83351873)" My 48 1 ton falls into the 1st set at $116.06 = napa 2621231 and when I compared them to the other napa set 2621378 I see that the 2 different sets use a different diameter pin it also lists 2 different bearings one is called TS the other called TB not sure what the letters mean . Then since the pin goes through the axle and there are also 2 different parts #'s for the axle based on serial#. The difference is only 0.0077 This is if NAPA's info is correct. No answers just trying to understand but it looks like there was a change in the pin size on the newer trucks to a slightly thicker pin.

I have been doing some research on front end parts also. Now using Rockauto for my 48 B1D came up with raybestos 4011003 which shows napa 26292007 and raybestos 4011004 comes up as napa 26292008 Also my Parts manual 48-51 shows the same part #s 1311175 left and 1311176 right for BCD Trucks Now to dig a little deeper I have also found that at least up 1959 the parts seem to be are the same I had checked some tire rods for my 59 dodge w200 and using rockauto came up with a Moog part # ES158R putting that into the NAPA online search engine one of the choices is your 2692008 Using ES158L brings up 2692008 I started all this on a kingpin serach and also came up with the NAPA 2621231 form my truck . I picked up a drag link on ebay for $100 about a month ago and I think autozone has them also for a decent price maybe the same one I got on ebay

I need to learn to read when I saw right wc was leaking I was thinking same wheel as lock up problem . I would also pull the front left as sometimes if the left is not adjusted correctly it will pull to the right.

If the right wheel cylinder leaked then that is the problem as Mike explained the fluid that leaked onto the shoe caused the other problems. If this was a new cylinder I would check 1st to be sure there is no damage to the bore and the piston is ok and the correct one if it look ok then get a rebuild kit, new rubbers, just to be safe and reinstall the cylinder You do need to check all parts before install I just replaced the brakes on my dump truck used all new wheel cylinders and found one of the pistons was frozen so had to exchange it before install. This truck used 2 different size pistons in each cylinder so maybe someone put the wrong one in at the factory. Rockauto replaced the cylinder and even paid for return shipping

you grab the wheel when its jacked up and see how much play is in the wheel rocking it top top bottom. You may want to tighten the wheel bearing to be sure its not what you are feeling ,back it off about 1/6 of a turn when done. I think the manual states something like 1/8" of play but you just go by feel it it feels too loose it is.

I will pull the pins 1st that way I can see just what I am dealing with and go from there. I have been pricing the pins and see Roberts has them in their catalog for $55 and them owe me $50 for a core deposit so that is the way I will most likely go. The big decision is if I do them now or in 6 months. I am in the process for trying to figure some noise in the pto (dump truck 4 speed trans) drained the trans yesterday so I can remove the pto for a look and still have and have some work to do on my 62 willys that I use to plow snow of course if it does not snow any more I am ok

Thanks for the tip I will snipe it for $200

NAPA at lest by me is not cheap but usually good quality stuff. That was the price on the website I used the original part # and the napa part # (NCP 2621231) and price came up actually I think $112 but I added the tax 7% here. From what you and Mike quoted price wise it does seem to make sense to let a shop do the bushing and save the sweat and aggravations for another repair.

Mike, after reading your reply I guess the best thing is to knock out the pin and see just what I have . Cross referencing the old mopar part # at NAPA comes up with a set for about $120 I have I do have a press not sure about the reamer. I will check out the price of getting the bushings done as I have more then enough work to do. The right side feels ok but the left has more play then I would like of course I just finished doing the brakes and felt this while I was putting the drum back. Or maybe just wait and road test it and go from there as have some more work to do on this truck and need to get another vehicle into the garage soon. What I really need is more garage space but I guess that is a problem we all have Ed

1st I should reference my previous post about the bent tire rod as was suggested it was not to hard to straighten. It may not be perfect but as good as some pool cues I have used. I noticed some play in the left king pin and it may need to be replaced, from what I read they need to be reamed. I have some reamers in a box but need to know what size. Its a B1d 1 ton if they use different sizes