oldmopar

Seem to have just about everything. I bookmarked

I have not used him myself but has seen a number of recomendiations for his service http://www.wiperman.com/

yes the 4 door had turn signals added and they used seperate lights also drilled some holes in the top of rear fenders for taillights. That will be removed and holes plugged when I get to that point. It needs cosmetic work but frame still has some original paint and only real rust is on the rockers the part under the floor. The coupe had 38,000 miles is original condition still has the original interior rubber mats trim ect was only repainted once and is on its 2nd set of tires. I got the car from a small town upstate New York the car never left that town until I purchased it. Was a tough decision to sell it but it needed a better home then I was giving it and I sold it to a friend so I can visit the car. Ed

I owned 2 P15's the blue coupe which I sold and the black 4 door which I kept. I had the coupe for about 4 years (use to post on the old board as ed ward) had the sedan even longer. Sold the coupe to a friend who I invited to visit the forum. I have too many projects and had to keep the coupe out side the past year and it is a very original car and in nice condition so decide to get it to a better home . The sedan needs work but it is solid very little rust just needs the usual minor things like brakes, interior, wiring, and a fresh coat of paint. I had started to restore this before I got the coupe which needed very little so I guess its back to work on the sedan. Ed

Its been a few years since I did them but as I recall you remove about 6 bolts possibly a shim then remove the axel then there is the seal ,I had to use a bearing puller to get it out. The axle bearing remained on the axel and was good so I just cleaned and repacked it. If the bearing needs to be removed it should be pressed off. When the axel is installed you should use a dial indicator to set the end play of the axel to spec. As I remeber there is a inner and outer seal that should be replaced. I do not use motors but have a orignal Plymouth manuals I work from I also have a parts manual that hepls to see how it goes together. When working on these cars the dealer model specific books are as important as a good set of tools. I have done this on other then Plymouths so may have mixed a few minor things up but by using the books,correct tools and some common sense it is not a hard thing to do. One more then when you are there clean out the old grease from the axle grease fitting and install new grease ed

I have the part number at work but I will wait until I get the clips and see if it is correct then post the part number. Below is a link to their online catalog which show pics but not sizes so the 1st time I ordered I went by the catalog photo this explain what I need and for what car so hopefully I will get the correct clip. In any case the catalog is worth a look they have a lot of clips and other items to look at. http://www.restorationspecialties.com/catalog.htm

I call restorations specialites they were came up what sounds like the right clips but I will know for sure when they arrive

If the axel is not too tight I have pulled it reversing the brake drum and pulling it out use the drum and have also used a slap hammer . I know some references advise against a slap hammer I have not had any problems but have only done a few Ed

Which Macco did you use I am in western monmouth and have a few project comming up that will need paint hopefully around summer Ed

I need the clips that hold on the front fender moulding. I ordered what I thought was correct from Restoration Specialites but they are too short the clips I need are a rectangle 1 1/16 X 3/4 the clips I have are 3/4 X 3/4. Need 6 anyone have suggestions where I can get them. I attached a pic of the incorrect clip. Ed

I think sweptline was what that era was called and the flatside were sweptsides and other like mine were stepsides. It would be a interesting trade as I like the power giant style look but we are way too far apart.

Thanks I am sure I will have many, I wll be posting those questions on the 39-47 forum but I also added your email to my address book Ed

Thanks but as a xmas present to my wife I will pass just too many projects going on and I may have to park the next one in here garden and then she will plant me there

I think the transportation would be expensive I am in NJ. Interestling find the truck is titled as a w200 but do to many changes it looks more like a 100 rear axel and front hubs are 5 lug has a newer 74 engine and headers,edelbrok carb I had picked it up as a parts vehicle but found the motor ran well brakes replaced,rear changed, hedders installed ,looks like someone started working on it and stopped have not fully checked it out. a few pics at the link http://oldmopar.com/oldtruckbarn/63pics.html

yes its the 133 wb. Looks to be complete except for cowl lights and 1 incorrect knob for the choke. engine has D30 on the block so I guessing the engine is from a 49 dodge car. It has the 4 speed trans and only some surface rust that I see so far. Don't know all about these yet but will learn. Brakes, exhaust system, carb and fuel tank have been done by the po. This will have to wait awhile I have a project that needs at least a month until I can free up some garage space. oh have all the parts for the 9' bed except the wood. Tail gate and head board for the box are repros still in the box.

I have a 76 D100 with a 318 727 auto trans that has about 140,000 miles on it. I use to tow my car trailer. I towed a 63 sweptline over 300 miles a few months ago with it and am picking up a 46 wd21 truck with it tomorrow about another 200 miles. They are good engines easy to get parts for and easy to work on.

Seems to me the more you drive them the better they run.

I had removed some badly rusted plugs by filling the pockets with PB Blaster keep it full of the oil check it every day in about a week I was able to remove the plugs ,Same car had a few hung up valves also worked them with wd40,pbblaster (head and side plates off) and turned engine over by hand with a breaker until eveyhing freed up.

Is it possible there is a problem with the needle valve and it is not suppling the fuel flow properly kind of a long shot but from reading this I would think it has to be related to the last work done which was the carb swap ed

its part of the grill the grill is made up of large and small grill bars. I do not have my parts manual with me right now but the only way I can think of to name it is to call it the large grill bar under the parking lights as have already stated . each bar does have a seperate part number

I have not used them in a while but I have purchased trim clips for my P15 from restoration specialites a link is below http://www.restorationspecialties.com/products.htm

Where are you located ?

I have not been here in a while. I have been spending way too much time playing with some trucks I have been picking up as I plan to retire next year so I am stocking up on toys to keep me busy. I think I have enough if I live to 100. I am sure not everything will get done I use to sign on here as ed ward but use oldmopar in a few other forums so made the switch here. below is a link to what I have in the backyard right now. I just read the dial up problem so you may not want to click the link but I think most pics are small should load quickly Ed http://oldmopar.com/cars.html