nonstop

Thank you! I forgot I previously read that post. I was too busy with worst case scenario, I completely forgot about it! I am going to try to pull the top and have a look today, and fingers are crossed you are right. It would make my life a lot simpler! P.S. - I have a no pic or your truck saved on my phone from one of the first times I read that post, since it is what my truck is supposed to look like!

Too bad you are so far away… I have a freshly machined crank and I think one that needs machining…. Not feasible to ship!

That was my fear. I can find the 24 tooth ones, but not the 20 tooth….. I am thinking I might have to change the drive gear, synchro assembly, and second gear. What a pain and $$$$$! Is anybody aware of other options besides changing whole transmissions? Thanks!

I did not think of that - what about a 14 bolt with redrilled hubs, or even a rear out of a fedex truck with the wide 6 bolt hubs? Just throwing things out there, not sure which ones could work…

So, bringing this back - Pertronix said ground or voltage issue. It sounds like you have the ground taken care of. What is the voltage at the Pertronix? That very well could be the problem if this is the second one with the same dwell. I have tried Pertronix on a good number of cars, and currently only have it left on one. My opinion is that they are popular because aftermarket points and condensers are junk. Might want to keep an eye out for a Dyna-Flyte dual point conversion…..

Might be time for a Ford 9 inch - they sell blank axle shafts and redrill drums. Might be easiest and most straight forward.

Okay, I think I might try another route - does anyone have a parts diagram with numbers for a 1954 - up 3 speed truck transmission? I can get the synchro assembly and 2nd gear for these, just need a main drive gear. Am I overthinking this and doing something wrong? Thank you, Nick

I used to be of the modify camp. Then I saw all the other modified cars and realized there are less and less stock (around my area). Each time you modify one, you lose appeal to a certain segment. With that said, I do not chastise or think no one should modify their car - it is YOUR car. Have fun with it. I just find I get more comments with it stock. I will make safety modifications - brakes and seatbelts, or period accessories (NOS Mopar pieces). And for me, there is a charm in driving an old car. I do not take the freeway much at all, so most of my driving is surface streets. I find my cars can hold their own there. The older I get, the less I want to rush. Again, to each their own, just make sure to have fun!

My half ton is the same. I do not dare go faster than 60-65…

Thank you, I have been looking, but striking out so far…..

Hi all, Just thought I might pass along a quick little lesson I learned yesterday as a PSA… So my Royal with a Hemi has been blowing blue smoke after sustained highway runs, but not around town or in stop and go traffic. Well through deduction (and because it already happened before), I concluded I had a plugged oil return hole. After pulling off the valve cover on the side that was clogged last time, I was met with a head covered with sludge. I proceeded to clean it off best I could and then blow any loose stuff off (mess in itself). So now comes the time to clean the oil returns. I forgot there are only 2. I take out the gun cleaning kit. I run a .357 brush down the rear hole (like last time). It works pretty well. I move to the front. It is met with some resistance. After a little wiggling, it frees up and I pull the rod out - without the brush on the end. I briefly panic thinking the worst and I might have to do major surgery to get the brush out of an oil return passage. Long story short, I was able to get it pushed through and now have a barrel brush in the oil pan to be fished out at next oil change. Moral of the story - be careful what you shove down the oil holes!

There are a few nos pumps on eBay right now, but they are a little pricey.

On this stuff, eBay is your friend for quick results for parts. The parts are all out there even without eBay. After seeing the interior, I would be even MORE enthusiastic! Good looking car that really does not look like it will take much to be road worthy! A brake rebuild would be a given on almost any of these cars and should not deter you. What is the seller looking to get?

Thank you. I have never heard of them before. I tried them, but there was no stock. I will keep them in mind for future.

Good looking car! My 1954 Royal 4 door with a Hemi and Powerflite in very original condition cost 2000 about 10 years ago. It did not run and needed brakes. Parts are available and easier to find than you would think. As for brakes, they can be gotten from a number of places and there are disc brake kits available. As for the Powerflite, mine has been a great transmission. It was sticky and gummed up from sitting for years. I changed the fluid and it worked, but was having problems shifting. I replaced the governor with an NOS unit off eBay and it works great. I will get it rebuilt - eventually.

Hi all! I am almost ready to throw in the towel. My 3 speed in my 1951 B3B has lost it’s 2nd gear synchro. I have been double clutching it for over a year while I accumulated all the parts to rebuild the transmission. As I was going through the parts, getting ready to do my build, I found the new synchro rings I got have 24 teeth and my truck is supposed to have 20 teeth on the rings (somewhere along the way they changed tooth count). The rings I need are part number 1196890. I cannot find these things anywhere! Does anybody know of a good source for them, or an aftermarket cross reference number, or any other solutions to this issue? Any help is appreciated! Thank you, Nick

So, maybe a stupid question on this one. My kit is older and uses Diplomat rotors. But I am considering discs for my truck. Why could one not use the factory lug bolts instead of studs? Might be a little more nuisance when lining up the wheels to put them on, but could this work?

I agree with you to a point. If he crashed into a pylon or guard rail, it would be lesson learned and he should not be beaten up a lot more than he has. He was out on the street and hit other vehicles. He got VERY lucky others were not hurt more. If he was driving a bucket or a beater, and this happened, people would be relentless in ripping him a brand new one. At the end of the day, he was just as culpable and irresponsible - with a nicer car.

Over the years, I have worked/built/even hacked (in my teenage years and very early 20’s) many cars. Did not take long for me to transition from making power my first upgrade to making stopping and safety the priority. Sad some people never learn even after hundreds of thousands of dollars and ruined relationships! Thank you for posting that. First thing I did was show my boys. They had already seen it, but told me plans they had already made for upgrading the safety and brakes of their car as a result of that video.

I tend to keep my mouth shut (most of the time) on things I do not know about. I am still learning flatheads, so I do not post much and instead, try to listen. With that, what do these people think valve lapping compound is for, along with the fact it is outlined in the manual? I have never personally lapped valves, but your situation is the perfect scenario for it- addressing minor issue of valve not sealing perfectly. I have 2 FB accounts. I might check them 1 to 2 times per year and never post. I do not necessarily care what people have to say, and would rather use a site like this with a great knowledge base to pick people’s brains.

My 1954 Royal and my 1951 B3 take turns as DD duty. The little Hemi has good pep for it’s size (and unknown mileage)!

Might want to go with the dual diaphragm booster. I started with a dual 7 inch and eventually ended up with an 8 inch dual with 1 1/16 master. I am not sure of pedal ratio, but I am happy with the performance and pedal feel.

I did the conversion a few years ago. It cost almost $500 for parts and to have the shaft made. I am very glad I did it. It really smoothed out my car at all speeds. I am very happy I went that route.

Provided I understand the question correctly, only one carburetor needs to be wired. It is simply a switch for the trans. Wiring up the second one only seems to add more complication to it.

Did that include the 5% off at RA with the coupon? Does not make that much of a difference sometimes, but might as well throw that in as well!