nonstop

From what I read, the V8s used a carrier with 4 spider gears instead of 2 like in the 6 cylinders. Last year I put in a 3.73 pumpkin out of a 1954-56 DeSoto into my truck. The only changes needed were to the side gears. It is pretty straightforward and should fit.

That’s great news!

Do you have your pedal return spring in place?

Going on up to Pioneer from the Bay Area!

Hot damn! I am moving up that way - I THINK I may be able to actually make it in April!

That is what I did in my truck. Four wires - power, ground, and 2 wires for the speaker! Works great!

Put light pressure against the center button and turn counter clockwise. It should turn about an eighth of a turn. Then the center button should come out (might need to pry it out a little). From there, there should then be 3 screws holding the ring on.

If the rotor is not the problem, don’t discount a bad condenser right out of the box. The failure rate is ridiculous. Have had way too many go bad. My latest was my 1940 Chrysler just 2 weeks ago. Ran briefly then died. Did this a few times and long story short - was the condenser, with MAYBE a couple hundred miles. This was from Napa, but had same luck with Oreilly and others as well.

I have done a couple of different set ups. In my truck with no radio, I bought a blue tooth receiver and cheap speaker. $25 investment and I can play off my phone. On my Dodge and my Chrysler, I am using Redi-Rad to play through my radio and speakers. It uses a cord, but I like the sound quality, as it sounds more like an AM radio in these cars should. They were about $100 each. Sorry, neither was a direct answer for what you were looking for, but I am very happy with the results of each.

My car and truck did the same thing. I found the wicks for the Speedo, cleaned them and used light oil or even engine oil in a pinch (not recommended) and it solved the problem almost immediately!

I never saw Red Asphalt, but I think it should still be shown. I work in accident reconstruction. Between the classes, the scenes, and the investigations we do, I do not like speeding much anymore. I have learned to let people be jerks and let them go. I am paranoid driving and am extremely defensive. Too many people have some false sense of security about themselves, and others are over confident in their driving skills!

I have the same valve. It has an integral clamp for the cable. It works well actually.

I daily drive my old stuff. Funny, on the freeway I am in the slow lane most of the time. If I get tailgated or high beamed… I go even slower. Not necessarily to be a jerk, but for crying out loud, I cannot pull to the right. Most people are okay on the freeway. On city streets on the other hand - people just drive stupid. My biggest issue is the people that refuse to dim their high beams. My stuff is still 6 volt, so it is not quite as effective trying to high beam them. I work at night, so it really screws up my vision.

I really didn’t view it as political and thought it was pertinent, but whatever, especially based where I live. No harm, no need to apologize.

That was it. Plymouthy pretty much summed it up. On my Royal, nothing needed machining. On my truck, I needed to space the drum from the flange. I never experimented with different drums, so something else might work… I also used later axle retainers so I did not need to cut up the backing plates. I am very happy with the brakes, and it will give the op a parking brake option.

I have done it for 2 axles. I used 1965 Coronet rear brakes. I had to drill 2 holes on each axle flange and a few other things. I solved the seal problem by using 8 3/4 axle retainers. I wrote up how I did it some years ago.

One thing I learned with NAPA - now I order online and ship it to the store. I can pay when I pick it up and I use the AAA discount which can vary, but many times makes parts cheaper than O’Reilly or AutoZone. They still have the smartest guys around…

I would have to agree with above - the date coded tires would likely be the best indicator. You are right - they are the 17th week of 2019. Are the wheels all the same? I would think if they were going to get tires onto wheels, then it was either running, or there was the intention to get it running and they started the work…

I have heard they are 10 spline, but it would be best to pull a shaft and count the splines. That way you are certain. From what I had read, my truck had 16 splines. When I did the swap, it had 10 splines. Not sure if something was changed or if there was simply a fluke somewhere. On a side note, why the drop to 3.73? For the cost, it is not much trade off - 0.17 difference. You might want to consider going to 3.55 gears. You would certainly lower RPM’s, but the other question is, can your car handle it?

You can certainly increase your mileage with one of these cars. But it also involves some money. I DD my cars. If you take a look, early 80’s Ford trucks got over 20 mpgs and it is also been purported some 472 and 500 cube Cadillacs also got similar mileage. Todays trucks are getting in the teens with FI and a bunch of computers… over 40 years later. Now, there are certainly trade offs. The trucks I referred to were 300 cid 6 cylinders, with SROD overdrive transmissions and 2.73 rear gears. They also had lightened frames, manual windows, no airbags, etc. Still, in over 40 years you would think mileage would have increased. As noted above, weight certainly plays a part. I recently weighed my truck and it was 2600 pounds - or less than half the weight of a new truck. I recently changed my gearing from 4.10 to 3.73. I certainly noticed an improvement in mileage. After consulting with some of the fine members here, my next upgrades were a dual carb set up (with the B&B carbs) and dual exhaust. There was another mileage improvement - and the engine is much happier! The mileage improvement is said to be from better fuel distribution. I am happy with it, but ultimately, you need to decide how much money do you want to put into it vs how long would it take to recoup that in savings at the pump. Will the mileage savings be worth it to you? How far do you drive? A simple carb rebuild might be your most cost effective alternative instead of experimenting with different carbs, OR putting out the money once to get it professionally rebuilt with a warranty by a reputable company.

I did mine a bit over a year ago. Even by myself, it wasn’t too bad. Agree that a lot of lubrication helped it. Even after, I found some small seepage in the lower corners where the glass meets the rubber. Some high flow silicone in the joints took care of that.

I did….. then went back to points. There were problems in using it with an overdrive and I don’t necessarily trust Pertronix.

I would rather have the two options - lose electricity (more likely), have gas back up. Lose gas - can plug in a heater. I have personally seen the aftermath of large gas line explosions and our wildfires started by electricity. The gas could have been mitigated by proper maintenance, and the electrical could (for the most part) have been mitigated by maintenance, controlled burns, and politicians not mettling in areas they have little knowledge! As for too much CO2 - we can easily plant more trees, and we should!

You might have just found the issue! If the points aren’t closing, you have a point bounce and a miss. If you get a chance, can you post a picture of the spring set up?

I wonder if that is the remaining stock from Vic’s….. edit: It is Vic’s. Listed in one or more of the ads.