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nonstop

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Everything posted by nonstop

  1. I may be odd man out, BUT I would pick the Sachs clutch. I used to work in a trans shop. I originally put a centerforce clutch into my 1985 GMC K2500. Within a year or so, the center hub broke. I replaced it with sachs at my boss’s recommendation. Held up great behind a 454 towing and hauling until I finally sold the truck about 18 years later.
  2. I would suggest doing the coil, then condenser. Have had bad (cracked) Pertronix coils out of the box. I am not necessarily a fan of Pertronix, but am still running one in my Royal. I have also had condensers fail (multiple different brands) almost right away. I now carry a few spares. Both the coil and condenser are very viable culprits. Might as well check the wiring while you’re in there too.
  3. Possibly not the issue, BUT I ended up replacing the regulators in my cars/trucks with NOS units or vintage rebuilds. I was going through parts store regulators. No problems since then… Also, how is the wiring?
  4. I did a Heli-Coil in the inlet of a B&B. It held great and no leaks!
  5. My best guess is 48-50, but more importantly, what is it? Is it a Ute thing or a custom?
  6. It sounds like your tank was repurposed from something else. The ports should not be a problem, BUT I would just make sure there is a check salve before the T and after the carburetor. it couldnt hurt to keep the drain port - get rid of contaminants that may have settled in the tank.
  7. Never been there either! As you probably know, there are almost no junkyards in the Bay Area anymore (save for Pick n Pull which is like the AutoZone of junkyards). It is looking like it is time to make a Central Valley JY trip!
  8. Mine was a 7 inch dual… It worked, but did not feel like it was providing much boost. I am also using a Dodge Diplomat master (I think) with a 1 1/32 bore.
  9. That would be awesome, I really appreciate it, thank you! Is it a big yard? Looking for an excuse to head down that way to check them out!
  10. Two questions - do they have any more? And, what is the name of the yard? I have bought a few things from them on eBay, but would like to check out the yard one day!
  11. On my 1954, I used a dual diaphragm 8 inch booster. I used an adapter from speedway to mount the booster. The difference with mine was I used a bracket from ECI for my application, so I am not sure if it lowered the master at all. I had started with a 7 inch, but not enough assist. I really like how my brakes feel now.
  12. Honestly, you might be money ahead to spend the $200 to have it rewired. Replacement regulators can cost up to $100 or more, and the quality is questionable. Reading on the website, it is already internally regulated, so that would negate the cost of a new regulator. And thinking about it, a new external regulator sounds to be out of the question. With that said, I would just view it as $50-100 (taking out the cost of a new regulator you were planning to buy) plus the cost of the ride there and back.
  13. All above is good advice. The only other advice I can add is to check one item at a time. It is too easy to jump around and next thing you know is you have fiddled with a few different things and not sure what will get you back to baseline, or what actually fixed the problem. A lot harder to go back and make the permanent fix. This is especially true when checking fuel and ignition problems, as symptoms can be mistaken for one or the other. I have been down that rabbit hole. It can get frustrating.
  14. Thank you guys!!! I think I will try out the 3.55s (scared because there are a lot of hills, although I am currently able to pull them in 3rd), and will still hold onto the manifold and exhaust to add on to the engine! But please, keep the info coming! It is making me feel better about my plans!
  15. Hi all! I have searched up and down and always come up with conflicting answers. My truck is a daily driver, and my commute has recently gotten longer. It includes freeway (short bursts) and hills. I am looking to get better mileage (I know, old truck and being realistic about it will likely not get too much better). I recently replaced my exhaust with a kit that goes from 2 inch to 1 3/4 inches out of the muffler and was surprised how much power was lost. I will be fixing that this week. So on an impulse buy, I bought an Offy dual carb intake, justifying it by telling myself the engine will be more efficient. Of course I will put dual exhaust if I go forward with it. I do not mind putting in the work to make it work, BUT I was hoping to hear some real world experience. Did it help with power? Did it help with efficiency? Did it help with both? Am I dumb and likely just going to have a cool looking piece hanging off the engine if I go ahead with this? I would probably be better off redoing the rear and going from 4.11 to 3.73, but those are practically impossible to find. I DO have a set of 3.55s but the hills would likely negate any of that. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks, Nick
  16. News to me! Sorry to hear about that, I had a few things I was looking to order for my Chrysler…eventually. Looks like I waited too long!
  17. I was just looking around for a kit to modify my exhaust manifold to run a second pipe, when I was directed to the Rusty Hope site. Looking through, I was unable to find what I was looking for (darn!), BUT in reading through the site, he too will be shutting down operations. This sucks! While I have not used him before, it just adds to the list of businesses and resources lost. So far this year, off the top of my head, we lost Vic’s Dodge Garage, Scarebird, and now Rusty Hope!
  18. Thank you for the link, it helped clear up some stuff!
  19. Hi! I am going to be reupholstering my seat in the near future. I have never done this before, so it might be a bit of a feat for me. I wanted to replace some of the springs on my seat (they bottom out over bumps and I want to believe it is because they are broken and not because I am slightly chubby)! I was looking at Albrights Supply and came up with a couple of questions - First, does anyone know the height of the seat base springs? Second, does anybody know how many springs the seat base uses? Does anybody have any general pointers to redoing the seat? It looks pretty straightforward. Thanks, Nick
  20. If you are already buying cable by the foot and have to make it, now would be a good time to use 00 cable. A little harder to work with, but well worth the effort for easier starting and charging.
  21. By full fielding, I mean grounding the F terminal on the generator. I just had the opposite problem on my 1954 Dodge. It was pegging the needle on the charge side f my ammeter. It turned out that the F stud was grounding out and my generator was putting out max charge. While waiting for the new voltage regulator, it would be a simple test to run, just do it shortly to avoid damaging anything. You can also check for continuity in the field wire between the voltage regulator and the generator. Make sure there are no breaks in the wire.
  22. Do you have a thermostat in there, and if so, did you verify it works? That might be the first thing I looked at. I run a 180 in my stuff and am happy with the temps...
  23. Have you tried full fielding the generator to make sure it is capable of putting out? It sounds like you might be on the right track with the voltage regulator though…..
  24. It depends. I have found with the distributor numbers you can find all part numbers for bushings and other things online. eBay and other sites seem to have a lot of these parts listed by number.
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