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Everything posted by James_Douglas

  1. I have driven my friends car on several occasions and it drives just fine with the single BBL Carter BB. James
  2. I have tried using this tool in place and could never get a good angle to do the job correctly. I ended up having to pull the fender, both inner and outer to get a good hit to replace the brass plug leaks. I used JB but after 50K miles it is showing signs of some weeping. That is why on the next one I am going to machine the step out of the block and use the cup style ones...
  3. Domi, I have a good friend with a 1946 T&C. In fact I flew across the USA with him to advise him when he was looking at it and I have helped him with work on it. In the next couple of days, I will take some detailed shots of the parts in question. There was a shortage at the factory in 1946 of Carter One Barrel Carburator's and some of the T&C's got a Two Barrel Carburetor and some got a Strongberg. So, if you are starting from scratch, you could hunt for any of the three sets of needed parts. Give me a few days and I will see what I can photo and get it posted. James ******** Domi, J'ai un bon ami avec une T&C de 1946. En fait, j'ai traversé les États-Unis avec lui pour le conseiller quand il le regardait et je l'ai aidé à travailler dessus. Au cours des prochains jours, je prendrai quelques photos détaillées des pièces en question. Il y avait une pénurie à l'usine en 1946 de Carter One Barrel Carburator et certains des T & C avaient un carburateur à deux barils et d'autres un Strongberg. Donc, si vous partez de zéro, vous pouvez rechercher l'un des trois ensembles de pièces nécessaires. Donnez-moi quelques jours et je verrai ce que je peux photographier et le faire publier. James
  4. I have been driving my 1947 Desoto Suburban as our daily driver for 20 years. San Francisco daily traffic and hour and 20 minute rides to our place out of town on the freeway at 65-70 MPH. 251 engine, three speed with OD and front disc brakes. At 175K miles on the car and about 65K miles on a rebuilt engine it is time to go completely through the car. I look forward to another 20 years driving it. James
  5. Hi All. My 1949 has a leaking MC. All my spares are at my place out of town. I am using a 1951 Imperial MC and pedal as the power brake cars 1951-1954 used a different pedal and a different push rod. This changed the pedal ratio. Also, the 1951-1954 MC had a 1.50 stroke versus the 1946 to 1950 which had 1.125 stroke. What I noticed on my now that it is on the bench is that when the pedal is in the resting position, up against the stop on the housing, that the face of the plunger is dead even with the face of the MC. My question is: Are the 1946 to 1949 units the same, or does the change in the push rods on the power units from 1951 to 1954 allow the plunger to travel out farther than the non power ones. Since all my hard brake spares out at my place out of town, I cannot check them. So, I wanted to see if anyone has one on the bench and call advise. ************* Well, since I wrote this I got a new master cylinder from one of the usual suspects that claim that this MC is all American made. I can tell you that the two machine screws that hold the plate and boot to the MC on the new unit were #10 Metric heads. The threads were SAE. Made in the USA, perhaps. I see that the length of the bore for this unit and my 1951 Imperial Unit are the same. All the difference in stroke is in the different pedal ratio and different pushrod. Speaking of that. There is no way to get the pushrod "B" setting to 3/4 inch as is advised in the service manual. The different pedal and pushrod set that geometry and no amount of adjustment can change it. It ends up being about 1.25 to 1.5 inch of total travel before the bleeder port stops bubbling inside the master cylinder. I spent an hour on the bench with it full to set it. I gave it a generous 1/4 inch of free play for the "A" setting. I suspect that nobody at MOPAR had a light bulb go off and amend the service manual. WARNING! The Master Cylinder I got had a pedal pin hole size of .7465 with the pin being .75000 inch. The engineering books tell you that for cast iron housing and steel pin that the press fit should be a maximum of one 1.3 thousands of an inch. My had 3.5 thousands of an inch. So I needed to ream it. If one tries to press or hammer the pin in with that tight of fit you may crack outright the housing. You may also induce some unseen cracks that could get big and fail in the future. I would suggest that people check that hole if they buy new master cylinders. Best, James
  6. There is one other way to deal with the boost pump issue... Cut the fuel in near the tank and put in a russell one way flow valve. The split the line into a double "Y". One side just heads to the front of the car like normal and the other side place into it a Carter 6V gear pump which is still generally available. The only issue is that pump if used as a primary, like the mechanical pump died, must have a return line to the tank with 3/16 hole in a "T" fitting at the car to keep it cool when stuck in stop and go traffic. See my old posts on the subject. You need the one way valve so when the electric is on it does not push back to the tank. James
  7. We have been using our 1947 Desoto as a daily driver since 2003. Now here in SF we only do about 3000 miles a year. We do not have any belts in it. Over the last few years however the number of close calls seems to have increased. Particularly on the freeways. When I start to go through the car next year, I plan on adding belts. The law in California is such that if yo install them you have to use them. I plan on using some steel plates welded to the underside of the body. A few holes with in and out spot type welds. Then 4 bolts in addition. This spreads out any forces to a larger area than a large washer. As to three point...the Desoto Suburban has a quite large post between the doors. I will weld in a plate with the appropriate threaded nut for a three way belt. One thing is the seats. They suck as far as the 1940's frame goes. They can hop out. The adjusters are just a bad design. In fact I have had to bailing wire the adjusters down to they will not move. I am thinking of using some turnbuckles with solid rods to set the front seat adjustment and remove the side handle making it more of longer term adjustment mechanism rather than a on demand one. I have no problem with people deciding to not use belts or riding a motorcycle without a helmet. As long as THEY are paying for medical insurance and long term care insurance so that the taxpayer is not on the hook for that decision. James
  8. Sounds like something is wrong with the ring wall seal. Someone may not have properly gaped the rings. I would pull all the pistons. Hone the walls to a proper cross hatch pattern. Place new rings in the bores. Gap them properly. Then place them on the pistons and put it all back together and see what you get. Just FOLLOW the ring makers recommendation for breaking in new rings. Fire the engine off and IMMEDIATELY bring it up to 1000 to 1500 RPM. Do not let it idle. Run it for at least 15 minutes or whatever the ring maker recommends. James
  9. The problem I would worry about is seepage. On the 1949 Desoto, go read the long threads I had on this, we had oil seeping from the gallery up through the floor of the water jacket. It was slow, took a couple of hundred miles. That oil would then float to the top of the head, act like a blanket, cause local hot spots and crack the head. Turns out that if you look at the photo I have attached that the distance from the gallery to the floor of the water jacket is very close. Any porosity in the block at that point from the original casting or rust over time and it can be a problem as I found out. It required swamping in a new engine for a new engine. I would plan on doing a full pressure test at 100 PSI of the oil distribution system to make sure that is not going to be a problem. Yes, this is a PITA as you have to press in a set of cam bearing blocking the holes then removing them. Not to mention all the other things that you have to plug. A friend who is big into drag racing suggested I get some of the stuff they pour into drag blocks to stiffen them up. A 1/4 mile is not long enough to cause a heat issue and they often fill the water jackets 1/2 up to stiffen them. He suggested after I clean my "bad" new engine that I pout like a 1/4 inch in to the floor of the block to seal any seep holes. He take is it could ave this rebuild engine. A thought. James
  10. I went and tried to order several of them on eBay. They would take the order then an hour or two later I would get an email saying that the unit was back ordered and they refunded the sale. Some 90% of the people selling om eBay and Amazon are just fronts. They have zero inventory. They just take the order and have the items drop shipped and taker a cut. The problem is that these same 90% of vendors do not use real time inventory from their suppliers so until they process the order they do not know if the units is really available. A buddy of mine found a place in the SF Bay Area that actually had a couple in stock, albeit at $75 each. The lesson of this particular episode is do not believe what you see until something is actually shipped or you actually talk with a supplier and they have the part in their hand while talking to you. The internet lies....
  11. yes, I mean the levers on the clutch pressure plate...
  12. The boot pump on my 47 died. I went to get a new one and airtex has them on back order (E8902) they also make another one (Airtex E8012S) but Amazon will not ship this unit to California ! What a pain in the ass! Anyone have a good part number for a 6 volt pass through inline fuel pump that is not airtex? Thanks, James
  13. Just send a core to Terrell Machine to rebuild it. Better pump that a new airtex.... James
  14. This is the classic case of the clutch forks being and incorrect height. Adjust the over center spring first. Then try to adjust the clutch rod. If you cannot get the clearance and it bottoms out then the clutch forks are too tall. If you end up with so much clearance that the rod is too shot (as is my case with the '49) then the clutch forks are too short. This is why I said that the actual clutch forks MUST be accurate. If it is not correct then one spends time chasing ghosts. I am glad you figured it out. That said, with everything new...the adjustment on the fork rod "should" fall into the middle of the threaded range IF the height on the clutch plate is correct... James
  15. The "long wheelbase cars" also called the "large wheelbase cars" used a 5x5.5 bolt pattern. The spindles, the uprights and the control arms are all larger than everything else. I had ECI custom make a conversion. He actually did two. One for me and one for a guy in Texas. They did not put it into production as it took too long and they would not make any money on them. It has worked fairly well except for a couple of things. One is that you have to mill a new disc down on one side some to fit. The other is that on one side they were off just a hair on the dimensions and when the disc pad wears the top edge of the pad does not wear and you can get a little ridge. I take new pads now and trim off a 1/16 to 1/8 off the top of the pad. Some pads are glued high, some low and some just right. At some point in the next six months I am going to pull the car apart and at that time if anyone wants a pattern, I can make one. The upright needs the bolt holes to be drilled out a little for the bolts. The car stops fine for a 4500-5000 pound car. James
  16. Costs for parts have become ridiculous. When I did the rebuild of the '47 about 20 years ago that engine got a NOS cam, NOS Head, and NOS crankshaft. The cam and the head were each about $100 delivered. The crankshaft from NJ to CA all in was $225. I hate to think what people would want for those today. James
  17. Do swing back and lets us know what happened....James
  18. Some time in the next year I will be pulling the 251 in the 1947 Desoto. This cam (NOS) and lifters were all brand new when I put them in. I have not used a high zinc oil. I did check the cam and lifters to make sure they passed a rockwell test. This engine is in the 4500-5000 pound Suburban which at 60K miles of San Francisco City Traffic and 70 MPH highway traffic to and from our place out of town will be an excellent test case as to if we need to worry about zinc or not. When I pull this engine apart we will be able to see how much wear this is and answer the zinc question as it applies to these engines. I am curious as to what I find. James
  19. The second thing to be VERY careful about is when replacing a bushing if it is off as little as one rotation you can toss out the Castor Alignment and may not be able to get it back no matter how far you turn the eccentric adjuster. Why? Because the placement of the control arms sets the inclination of the arm that hold the kind pins. If the relative distance between the lower control arm and the upper control arm is moved then that changes the inclination. On my 1949 Desoto, either the factory screwed up and did not get it right (only six months production on those and it was running very late) or I screwed up when I did mine. I have the castor adjusted with the eccentric all the way to the rear and I just get -1%. Technically just within spec but I noticed I really need more for it to be stable. I am going to pull the nuts on the lower at some point and move the lower control arm one turn forward so that I can get more castor and get the eccentric to be in the middle of that rather small adjustment range. You do not want the eccentric rubbing on one side or the other of the control arm. See the manual or the Imperial Club Lit on this subject and you will see what I am talking about. That is why if they are ok it is beast to leave well enough alone. I doubt your mechanic, unless he/she is 70 years old has any idea what they are getting into with this suspension. It takes a lot more detail than a modern rubber bushing suspension to do correctly. James
  20. Be very careful. You may need to "educate" the inspector. Odds are her or she has no idea of that they are looking at. Let me explain. The 1930 to early 1950's MOPAR's used a "nut and bolt" bearing design. There are no rubber bushings and there are no smooth wall bearings-bushings. The center block of the control arms pivots are in essence a threaded rod. The "nuts" which go into the control arms are threaded on the inside to thread onto those threaded rods and the outside is designed to cut into the control arm like a self tapping bolt. When UNLOADED there is a LOT of play in these type of designs. It was engineered that way. Time and time again I see people pulling the front end apart thinking they have "worn" control arm bushing. When in fact they did not. The bushings are "out of specification" when they have more than 20 thousands of clearance. That is a lot. See the attached PDF and the attached image. Check them yourself and if they are equal to or less than 20 Thousands then educate the inspector. James Control_arm_bushing_clearnace.pdf
  21. The first thing I would do is pull the oil pan and clean all the junk out. While doing that, pull the side covers and clean the junk out of the little oil "pools" that feed the lifters. Junk gets into those pools and can starve oil from the holes feeding the lifters. Then button up the engine and add oil. If you really want to clean the thing out, add oil after the above and add some Amsoil engine flush, a couple of times if the engine is really dirty. I have had good luck with it in cars that have sticky hydraulic lifters and rings that are not moving due to junk in the lands. In fact Amsoil instructs you to use it if switching to synthetic oil. James
  22. I have gotten to the point when I buy parts like master or wheel cylinders, oil pumps and the like that I take them apart and check everything. I have had bad seals, machine swarf, and parts that had hairline cracks in them. Do not trust any part assembly any more. James
  23. As small point but one that is worth mentioning... The Fluid Drive power transmission has nothing to do with the fluids viscosity. It has to do with the fluid velocity. I was corrected in this idea by the VP of Engineering at the corporate successor of Gyrol. He told me that water would be the best fluid in a fluid coupling as long as one had sealed bearings. But since out units need oil... The base viscosity best for a fluid coupling is ISO-10 if the bearings are in very good shape, else use something a little bit thicker like the ISO-32. What is critically important is the Viscosity Index which is the stability of the fluid to stay at its base viscosity when it heats up. James
  24. So, here is an interesting little bit... I noticed on the Master Power brake website that they are selling what they call an improved conversion kit for GM A, F and X bodies. What I noted was in the video. Their new bracket only has a caliper rotational stop on the steel plate at the inboard edge like most of our conversion kits. If you look at the factory stamped bracket they they show next to their new one one can note that the stop sits almost to the center-line of the caliper. You may be on to something Sniper, in fact on to something that a lot of people including myself, may have never given much thought to. Is it just the actual clearance distance and/or is it the clearance distance AND the Moment Arm of where the caliper push's on the stop? https://techtalk.mpbrakes.com/new-products/new-caliper-mounting-bracket-design James ************* The more I think about this, the more I see it in my head. The video showing the stock versus retrofit bracket has helped me to see it in 3D. When the stop is at the inner side of the mount AND it has too much clearance the caliper will cock a little under the braking load. If the outboard end cocks a little it will try to bend the sliding pin. Since my pin cracked right at the last thread on the caliper side of the bracket...that is the exact spot where the flex would take place. A repeated bend and return - bend and return - bend and return would cause the the type of failure I have seen. Ummmmm...
  25. This is something I want to look into. In my case with a steel plate, there is no stop further out on the caliper. In this photo it shows the stop as being at the center of the caliper. Now, is it possible that if the stop is just near the inboard side (steel plate) AND the clearance is too much that the caliper will cock slightly at the top? If that is the case then the upper pin will get loaded and the rotor will see a side load pushing out at the top which would induce more camber which would account for the tire shaving. With a cracked pin, that would induce even more camber...even 1 degree would cause my tire shaving.... Hummm.....
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