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Everything posted by James_Douglas

  1. Costs for parts have become ridiculous. When I did the rebuild of the '47 about 20 years ago that engine got a NOS cam, NOS Head, and NOS crankshaft. The cam and the head were each about $100 delivered. The crankshaft from NJ to CA all in was $225. I hate to think what people would want for those today. James
  2. Do swing back and lets us know what happened....James
  3. Some time in the next year I will be pulling the 251 in the 1947 Desoto. This cam (NOS) and lifters were all brand new when I put them in. I have not used a high zinc oil. I did check the cam and lifters to make sure they passed a rockwell test. This engine is in the 4500-5000 pound Suburban which at 60K miles of San Francisco City Traffic and 70 MPH highway traffic to and from our place out of town will be an excellent test case as to if we need to worry about zinc or not. When I pull this engine apart we will be able to see how much wear this is and answer the zinc question as it applies to these engines. I am curious as to what I find. James
  4. The second thing to be VERY careful about is when replacing a bushing if it is off as little as one rotation you can toss out the Castor Alignment and may not be able to get it back no matter how far you turn the eccentric adjuster. Why? Because the placement of the control arms sets the inclination of the arm that hold the kind pins. If the relative distance between the lower control arm and the upper control arm is moved then that changes the inclination. On my 1949 Desoto, either the factory screwed up and did not get it right (only six months production on those and it was running very late) or I screwed up when I did mine. I have the castor adjusted with the eccentric all the way to the rear and I just get -1%. Technically just within spec but I noticed I really need more for it to be stable. I am going to pull the nuts on the lower at some point and move the lower control arm one turn forward so that I can get more castor and get the eccentric to be in the middle of that rather small adjustment range. You do not want the eccentric rubbing on one side or the other of the control arm. See the manual or the Imperial Club Lit on this subject and you will see what I am talking about. That is why if they are ok it is beast to leave well enough alone. I doubt your mechanic, unless he/she is 70 years old has any idea what they are getting into with this suspension. It takes a lot more detail than a modern rubber bushing suspension to do correctly. James
  5. Be very careful. You may need to "educate" the inspector. Odds are her or she has no idea of that they are looking at. Let me explain. The 1930 to early 1950's MOPAR's used a "nut and bolt" bearing design. There are no rubber bushings and there are no smooth wall bearings-bushings. The center block of the control arms pivots are in essence a threaded rod. The "nuts" which go into the control arms are threaded on the inside to thread onto those threaded rods and the outside is designed to cut into the control arm like a self tapping bolt. When UNLOADED there is a LOT of play in these type of designs. It was engineered that way. Time and time again I see people pulling the front end apart thinking they have "worn" control arm bushing. When in fact they did not. The bushings are "out of specification" when they have more than 20 thousands of clearance. That is a lot. See the attached PDF and the attached image. Check them yourself and if they are equal to or less than 20 Thousands then educate the inspector. James Control_arm_bushing_clearnace.pdf
  6. The first thing I would do is pull the oil pan and clean all the junk out. While doing that, pull the side covers and clean the junk out of the little oil "pools" that feed the lifters. Junk gets into those pools and can starve oil from the holes feeding the lifters. Then button up the engine and add oil. If you really want to clean the thing out, add oil after the above and add some Amsoil engine flush, a couple of times if the engine is really dirty. I have had good luck with it in cars that have sticky hydraulic lifters and rings that are not moving due to junk in the lands. In fact Amsoil instructs you to use it if switching to synthetic oil. James
  7. I have gotten to the point when I buy parts like master or wheel cylinders, oil pumps and the like that I take them apart and check everything. I have had bad seals, machine swarf, and parts that had hairline cracks in them. Do not trust any part assembly any more. James
  8. As small point but one that is worth mentioning... The Fluid Drive power transmission has nothing to do with the fluids viscosity. It has to do with the fluid velocity. I was corrected in this idea by the VP of Engineering at the corporate successor of Gyrol. He told me that water would be the best fluid in a fluid coupling as long as one had sealed bearings. But since out units need oil... The base viscosity best for a fluid coupling is ISO-10 if the bearings are in very good shape, else use something a little bit thicker like the ISO-32. What is critically important is the Viscosity Index which is the stability of the fluid to stay at its base viscosity when it heats up. James
  9. So, here is an interesting little bit... I noticed on the Master Power brake website that they are selling what they call an improved conversion kit for GM A, F and X bodies. What I noted was in the video. Their new bracket only has a caliper rotational stop on the steel plate at the inboard edge like most of our conversion kits. If you look at the factory stamped bracket they they show next to their new one one can note that the stop sits almost to the center-line of the caliper. You may be on to something Sniper, in fact on to something that a lot of people including myself, may have never given much thought to. Is it just the actual clearance distance and/or is it the clearance distance AND the Moment Arm of where the caliper push's on the stop? https://techtalk.mpbrakes.com/new-products/new-caliper-mounting-bracket-design James ************* The more I think about this, the more I see it in my head. The video showing the stock versus retrofit bracket has helped me to see it in 3D. When the stop is at the inner side of the mount AND it has too much clearance the caliper will cock a little under the braking load. If the outboard end cocks a little it will try to bend the sliding pin. Since my pin cracked right at the last thread on the caliper side of the bracket...that is the exact spot where the flex would take place. A repeated bend and return - bend and return - bend and return would cause the the type of failure I have seen. Ummmmm...
  10. This is something I want to look into. In my case with a steel plate, there is no stop further out on the caliper. In this photo it shows the stop as being at the center of the caliper. Now, is it possible that if the stop is just near the inboard side (steel plate) AND the clearance is too much that the caliper will cock slightly at the top? If that is the case then the upper pin will get loaded and the rotor will see a side load pushing out at the top which would induce more camber which would account for the tire shaving. With a cracked pin, that would induce even more camber...even 1 degree would cause my tire shaving.... Hummm.....
  11. I would have to dig to figure out where I purchased them. It was either Wilwood or Jegs or Summit. Keep in mind that I do not put them in to tight as I do not want to take a change that the threaded holes in the mounting plate get messed up. I also use a lot of anti-sieze on them all the time. The pins do wear from the sliding on them. They can pick up a groove. I have been using this setup since about 2006 or so. I replaced the factory style with the sleeve with the "hardened" version to help with the sliding wear. A close look at the pin shows a narrow band of rust about a 1/16 of an inch below the bolt outer circumference. Like drawing a line from 10 o'clock to 2 'o'clock. That rust band is about 3/32 wide. What that tells me is that the thing cracked at the thread line but not all the way. Then it rusted for some long period of time, then it fractured and failed completely. It could be just a bad bolt. I replaced it a cheap auto parts unit. I am going to replace the other side just for grins. I will keep and eye on it. I will also carry a spare just in case there is something wrong. James
  12. FYI. I do not know off hand if the regular desoto sedans and coupes use the same joints as the Suburban with its larger chassis components... But if it does, there is nothing out there but junk replacements. I had to use three of them in the Suburban. I kept all the old ones as the blocks on the new ones are just not well done. They do not fit the mating side at all well. I ran across a Chrysler Service bulletin from about 1953 where some were shipped that did not fit well and they talk about checking cars as they came in for service and how to ID the ill fitting ones and what to do about it. So the index on those "Detroit" bearing housings are important. I plan on taking the blocks I have collected up and having them machines out or sleeved to fit a modern off the shelf universal. Then I can just swap out the round blocks for the Detroit Blocks. The junk ones were $100 each for a $20 joint with standard round blocks...I think I did a posting on it... James
  13. Wheel bearings are fine. Nothing looks out of place. What I am trying to picture in my mind is the loads, when the brake is applied, if the disc caliper is only being held on by the bottom bolt... James
  14. I use Denatured alcohol. Although many years ago I was with some guys in Lake Tahoe in the fall. We got a very early cold spell and a couple of the classic cars did not have any anti freeze. We went and got couple of bottles of every-clear at a liqueur store as it was late at night. We poured that in. It got down to like 25F that night. The car was in an open air parking lot. Next morning it was fine. James
  15. It has been some years, but I think these were high performance picked up from Jegs or Summit. The stock type uses a sleeve on the HP units the sleeve is machines into the bolt-pin. The type that broke looked like : https://www.wilwood.com/Hardware/BoltKitProd?itemno=230-0619 The stock ones use a sleeve like: https://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/230-11529/10002/-1 Very odd.... James
  16. The Set Up: For the last year or so I have had a slight clunk in the front right of the '47 Desoto. Usually I only hear it when I am just starting backing out of the garage. I have inspected the suspension and could not come up with a thing. Now, I did not take any of the suspension apart. The second odd thing is that I have been getting a fairly good outer Camber wear on the that same front right side. A lot of camber wear. Today: I pulled off the right front tire today to swap on a better used tire. I am looking into having wire wheels made for the car. Read my wheel hell thread about why. So, since I have the wheel off I decided to pull the caliper slider-mounting bolts and have a good look at the rotor and the pads. I stick in the allen wrench and give it a light tap with a hammer. I use a lot of anti-size compound to make sure those bolts come out nice. As I turn the wrench I notice that the end of the bolt is not moving. Oh Crap! Turns out that the bolt sheared on the last thread. Wow, I have never seen that. No other marks. Nothing looks bent on the threaded plate. It just failed. Standard GM D52 single piston caliper with HP slider bolts with the built in bushing. Wondering: I am now wondering if that top bolt (at about 11 O'Clock) failed, could the caliper cause the brake disk and hub assembly to move enough to cause a camber change when braking and that is what is causing the outboard saving of the tire? I have not wanted to do a alignment check until i get new wheels and tires... This is a new on one me I can tell you. I am going to have to have a drink or two and see if I can get this into my head in 3-D and "see" the load path. If it has done so, I also wonder if it moved the spindle over time (bent it) and that is causing the camber shaving. See something new every day when working on the old cars. James
  17. I have been using Prestone Anti-Rust (Soluble oil) and Water Wetter with nothing else for 20 straight years in the '47 Desoto. If I am going into the mountains in the winter, I add a quart or so of Alcohol for anti-freeze. The Alcohol lasts for a few months. This way, I can dump the water on the sidewalk here in San Fransisco, or anyplace else, and not worry about the pollution police giving me a hard time. My block and radiator look just fine inside, by bore scope inspection last year. Now all that said, 99% of the water I have used in it is San Francisco tap water. This water is one of the most pure municipal water sources in the world with almost no minerals in it. Thank you Hetch-Hechy snow melt. Snake oil or not, this combination works well for me with both factory bushing water pumps and sealed ones. James
  18. On the Desoto, the '49, it was on the top of the frame mid-way down the frame rail on the drivers side. I have never had the '47 Desoto's body off to take a look. James
  19. Tom, Is your car a three speed or an M6? I am assuming a 3 speeds as the weber would not work with the carb wiring with the M6... James
  20. Fedora Yes, Sinatra no. he did not start up in until 1935 when he jointed a group called the 3 flashes...
  21. No shroud. Clean block. Six blade (Dodge Truck) fan. Water wetter. Soluble oil. No antifreeze. Non-pressurized. Car has a 251. Car is about 5000 pounds. 180F Thermostat. 95F-100F day climbing out of Yosemite Valley to the north on two lane no shoulder highway. Several thousand feet. No boil over. Car ran to about 210F. Should have boiled by the math on altitude. The only time the temps climb and I cannot stop them is dead still with the fluid coupling engaged for more than 5 to 10 minutes. Then if I clutch it and kick on a 6 volt aux pusher fan I can keep it at 190-200 range on a 100F day which at a dead stop or stop and go. James
  22. I can share that the 4 wheel disc set up, as I said above is a bit much, is using a midland ross C-490-K vacuum booster. Same as on the T-Birds in the 1950's and the Chrysler 300 RAM cars in the early 1960's. Its specs are: At 19.5 to 20.5 HG Vacuum if 100 lbs. of brake pressure is applied from master cylinder you get 185 to 285 lbs. out. At 250 lbs. you get 635 to 750 lbs. out. That is with a vacuum booster bore of .8110 to .8135 and a 1 inch (I think although I may have used a 1-1/8 inch) master cylinder feeding the midland ross unit. With this info you may able to run the numbers against what you are proposing to get a feeling of what it will do. If it was winter and I had the car up at the house on the lift...I would take a direct at the wheel pressure reading and tell you what that is and then you could shoot for something a little less. Attached is a file I managed to get some years ago. It is very similar to the unit I am using. In the top right of the print it has the typical curve of pressure in and pressure out for the midland ross (as their successor) units. James c468l_v.pdf
  23. I ran across these old notes from the 1949 desoto disc conversion. I used a stock MC with a midland ross remote booster. It is to touchy. Below are some measurements I took of non-power and power pedals. Long Side Pedal Short Side Pedal Ratio Chrysler Power Brake Pedal 12.00 1.80 6.67 10.00 1.80 5.56 Desoto Pedal 12.00 1.45 8.28 10.00 1.45 6.90 Basically it looks like the changed the upper long side. Also they used a different shaped push-rod that also affected the final ratio. See attached. I would look around to find the lowest ratio pedal I could get. I would be curious as to the long side and short side measurements on the 1950 to see if it stayed the same. James
  24. Still in wheel hell. Not just normal hell, but the lower depths of hell... All the suggestions in this thread as to shops that could or would make a wheel have come to nothing. Either they do not make 15 inch wheels or they are not interested in making them. I have sent detailed information to "The Wheel Smith" and they could make a wheel, but they are sounding like they do not want to as they are worried about liability. Because my wheel cracked, they are worried that it is a load issue. Fair enough. But I keep telling them it is a combination of the load and a very bad job on the part of Stockton Wheel in their implementation of it. Stockton Wheel left sharp edges on the wheel center flanges that could then "dig into" the wheel outer and cause the cracking. I do think if they had rounded those 90 degree corners and also sanded the edges to "up sweep" a little and then pressed them in and welded it, it would be fine. Over the last few months I have been reading a 100 page book. It was written by the public school system Wichita, Kansas in the late 1940's. It was the book used to teach and test kids to take the Army Navy welding exam so they could work in the aircraft factories in Wichita. Welding a lot of chrome molly tubes in large clusters for aircraft small and large. It is all about stress and welding. It is all about preparation and exactly how to weld and in what direction relative to the metal grain. All about creating welds that do not crack. If one reads over all the items on metal preparation and welding procedure, it is evident that the folks at Stockton Wheel blew it. However, trying to find anyone that will actually weld a new set and follow rigorously the same level of Q&A as could be achieved in 1940 is proving to be a fools errand. I may have to abandon the disc brake set up and put drums back on just to be able to have wheels that will not fail. James
  25. I do not know who did the work. I happen to have a Logan gear cutting lathe, but fine threads are fun to do... Any good general machine shop should be able to cut the threads without any issue. I just happen to like the design as it screws right into the back of the MC and does not need any modifications to anything else. Maybe I will ask my local shop what he would charge me on his big ass CNC to design up the program and run a couple off for me. James
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