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James_Douglas

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Everything posted by James_Douglas

  1. I would have to dig to figure out where I purchased them. It was either Wilwood or Jegs or Summit. Keep in mind that I do not put them in to tight as I do not want to take a change that the threaded holes in the mounting plate get messed up. I also use a lot of anti-sieze on them all the time. The pins do wear from the sliding on them. They can pick up a groove. I have been using this setup since about 2006 or so. I replaced the factory style with the sleeve with the "hardened" version to help with the sliding wear. A close look at the pin shows a narrow band of rust about a 1/16 of an inch below the bolt outer circumference. Like drawing a line from 10 o'clock to 2 'o'clock. That rust band is about 3/32 wide. What that tells me is that the thing cracked at the thread line but not all the way. Then it rusted for some long period of time, then it fractured and failed completely. It could be just a bad bolt. I replaced it a cheap auto parts unit. I am going to replace the other side just for grins. I will keep and eye on it. I will also carry a spare just in case there is something wrong. James
  2. FYI. I do not know off hand if the regular desoto sedans and coupes use the same joints as the Suburban with its larger chassis components... But if it does, there is nothing out there but junk replacements. I had to use three of them in the Suburban. I kept all the old ones as the blocks on the new ones are just not well done. They do not fit the mating side at all well. I ran across a Chrysler Service bulletin from about 1953 where some were shipped that did not fit well and they talk about checking cars as they came in for service and how to ID the ill fitting ones and what to do about it. So the index on those "Detroit" bearing housings are important. I plan on taking the blocks I have collected up and having them machines out or sleeved to fit a modern off the shelf universal. Then I can just swap out the round blocks for the Detroit Blocks. The junk ones were $100 each for a $20 joint with standard round blocks...I think I did a posting on it... James
  3. Wheel bearings are fine. Nothing looks out of place. What I am trying to picture in my mind is the loads, when the brake is applied, if the disc caliper is only being held on by the bottom bolt... James
  4. I use Denatured alcohol. Although many years ago I was with some guys in Lake Tahoe in the fall. We got a very early cold spell and a couple of the classic cars did not have any anti freeze. We went and got couple of bottles of every-clear at a liqueur store as it was late at night. We poured that in. It got down to like 25F that night. The car was in an open air parking lot. Next morning it was fine. James
  5. It has been some years, but I think these were high performance picked up from Jegs or Summit. The stock type uses a sleeve on the HP units the sleeve is machines into the bolt-pin. The type that broke looked like : https://www.wilwood.com/Hardware/BoltKitProd?itemno=230-0619 The stock ones use a sleeve like: https://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/230-11529/10002/-1 Very odd.... James
  6. The Set Up: For the last year or so I have had a slight clunk in the front right of the '47 Desoto. Usually I only hear it when I am just starting backing out of the garage. I have inspected the suspension and could not come up with a thing. Now, I did not take any of the suspension apart. The second odd thing is that I have been getting a fairly good outer Camber wear on the that same front right side. A lot of camber wear. Today: I pulled off the right front tire today to swap on a better used tire. I am looking into having wire wheels made for the car. Read my wheel hell thread about why. So, since I have the wheel off I decided to pull the caliper slider-mounting bolts and have a good look at the rotor and the pads. I stick in the allen wrench and give it a light tap with a hammer. I use a lot of anti-size compound to make sure those bolts come out nice. As I turn the wrench I notice that the end of the bolt is not moving. Oh Crap! Turns out that the bolt sheared on the last thread. Wow, I have never seen that. No other marks. Nothing looks bent on the threaded plate. It just failed. Standard GM D52 single piston caliper with HP slider bolts with the built in bushing. Wondering: I am now wondering if that top bolt (at about 11 O'Clock) failed, could the caliper cause the brake disk and hub assembly to move enough to cause a camber change when braking and that is what is causing the outboard saving of the tire? I have not wanted to do a alignment check until i get new wheels and tires... This is a new on one me I can tell you. I am going to have to have a drink or two and see if I can get this into my head in 3-D and "see" the load path. If it has done so, I also wonder if it moved the spindle over time (bent it) and that is causing the camber shaving. See something new every day when working on the old cars. James
  7. I have been using Prestone Anti-Rust (Soluble oil) and Water Wetter with nothing else for 20 straight years in the '47 Desoto. If I am going into the mountains in the winter, I add a quart or so of Alcohol for anti-freeze. The Alcohol lasts for a few months. This way, I can dump the water on the sidewalk here in San Fransisco, or anyplace else, and not worry about the pollution police giving me a hard time. My block and radiator look just fine inside, by bore scope inspection last year. Now all that said, 99% of the water I have used in it is San Francisco tap water. This water is one of the most pure municipal water sources in the world with almost no minerals in it. Thank you Hetch-Hechy snow melt. Snake oil or not, this combination works well for me with both factory bushing water pumps and sealed ones. James
  8. On the Desoto, the '49, it was on the top of the frame mid-way down the frame rail on the drivers side. I have never had the '47 Desoto's body off to take a look. James
  9. Tom, Is your car a three speed or an M6? I am assuming a 3 speeds as the weber would not work with the carb wiring with the M6... James
  10. Fedora Yes, Sinatra no. he did not start up in until 1935 when he jointed a group called the 3 flashes...
  11. No shroud. Clean block. Six blade (Dodge Truck) fan. Water wetter. Soluble oil. No antifreeze. Non-pressurized. Car has a 251. Car is about 5000 pounds. 180F Thermostat. 95F-100F day climbing out of Yosemite Valley to the north on two lane no shoulder highway. Several thousand feet. No boil over. Car ran to about 210F. Should have boiled by the math on altitude. The only time the temps climb and I cannot stop them is dead still with the fluid coupling engaged for more than 5 to 10 minutes. Then if I clutch it and kick on a 6 volt aux pusher fan I can keep it at 190-200 range on a 100F day which at a dead stop or stop and go. James
  12. I can share that the 4 wheel disc set up, as I said above is a bit much, is using a midland ross C-490-K vacuum booster. Same as on the T-Birds in the 1950's and the Chrysler 300 RAM cars in the early 1960's. Its specs are: At 19.5 to 20.5 HG Vacuum if 100 lbs. of brake pressure is applied from master cylinder you get 185 to 285 lbs. out. At 250 lbs. you get 635 to 750 lbs. out. That is with a vacuum booster bore of .8110 to .8135 and a 1 inch (I think although I may have used a 1-1/8 inch) master cylinder feeding the midland ross unit. With this info you may able to run the numbers against what you are proposing to get a feeling of what it will do. If it was winter and I had the car up at the house on the lift...I would take a direct at the wheel pressure reading and tell you what that is and then you could shoot for something a little less. Attached is a file I managed to get some years ago. It is very similar to the unit I am using. In the top right of the print it has the typical curve of pressure in and pressure out for the midland ross (as their successor) units. James c468l_v.pdf
  13. I ran across these old notes from the 1949 desoto disc conversion. I used a stock MC with a midland ross remote booster. It is to touchy. Below are some measurements I took of non-power and power pedals. Long Side Pedal Short Side Pedal Ratio Chrysler Power Brake Pedal 12.00 1.80 6.67 10.00 1.80 5.56 Desoto Pedal 12.00 1.45 8.28 10.00 1.45 6.90 Basically it looks like the changed the upper long side. Also they used a different shaped push-rod that also affected the final ratio. See attached. I would look around to find the lowest ratio pedal I could get. I would be curious as to the long side and short side measurements on the 1950 to see if it stayed the same. James
  14. Still in wheel hell. Not just normal hell, but the lower depths of hell... All the suggestions in this thread as to shops that could or would make a wheel have come to nothing. Either they do not make 15 inch wheels or they are not interested in making them. I have sent detailed information to "The Wheel Smith" and they could make a wheel, but they are sounding like they do not want to as they are worried about liability. Because my wheel cracked, they are worried that it is a load issue. Fair enough. But I keep telling them it is a combination of the load and a very bad job on the part of Stockton Wheel in their implementation of it. Stockton Wheel left sharp edges on the wheel center flanges that could then "dig into" the wheel outer and cause the cracking. I do think if they had rounded those 90 degree corners and also sanded the edges to "up sweep" a little and then pressed them in and welded it, it would be fine. Over the last few months I have been reading a 100 page book. It was written by the public school system Wichita, Kansas in the late 1940's. It was the book used to teach and test kids to take the Army Navy welding exam so they could work in the aircraft factories in Wichita. Welding a lot of chrome molly tubes in large clusters for aircraft small and large. It is all about stress and welding. It is all about preparation and exactly how to weld and in what direction relative to the metal grain. All about creating welds that do not crack. If one reads over all the items on metal preparation and welding procedure, it is evident that the folks at Stockton Wheel blew it. However, trying to find anyone that will actually weld a new set and follow rigorously the same level of Q&A as could be achieved in 1940 is proving to be a fools errand. I may have to abandon the disc brake set up and put drums back on just to be able to have wheels that will not fail. James
  15. I do not know who did the work. I happen to have a Logan gear cutting lathe, but fine threads are fun to do... Any good general machine shop should be able to cut the threads without any issue. I just happen to like the design as it screws right into the back of the MC and does not need any modifications to anything else. Maybe I will ask my local shop what he would charge me on his big ass CNC to design up the program and run a couple off for me. James
  16. Some years ago I saw a set up where the owner had done something similar to this. What he had done is machined a block of steel about 2 inches square that threaded into the back of the stock master cylinder. On one side of that block it had two threaded holes. He had a small steel plate that bolted to those holes and the two rear factory master cylinder bolts. The steel plate had two studs in it pointing rearward. he mounted a dual master cylinder to the rear of that. The push rod was then shorter, and would have less flex than longer versions. I thought it was a nice design and did not require welding or bolting to the frame. James
  17. Since I have a three speed stick with OD and they did not offer that on 1946 to 1948 Desoto....the bracket that bolts to the trans to hold the passenger side of the band had to be made. (The P & D drums are smaller and their brackets will not work.) The bracket is not perfect. So it makes it hard to get the band to adjust correct. Plus the thickness issues. I get some 80 grit sticky back sand paper. I stick it to the drum, over lapping it in the direction of travel. I have the band sort of loose. I jack up the car and run it with the tires spinning. I pull the hand brake lightly with the lock depressed and "sand" the band to get it to conform. I then vacuum up the dust and set the brake adjustment as per the instruction with a feeler gauge. I then wire lock the nut-spring on the passenger side, again per the manuals, and I am good to go. James
  18. There used to be a company that sold kits to put in a restriction in the rear oil feed of these blocks to make up for the wear at the rear cam to block interface. When that rear "bearing" wears too much oil pressure can be lost. Hence the kit. I like the idea of pressing in a bushing to bring it back to the low end of the spec. Loren, what about an oilite bushing? Good cam cores are more important, I would rather change that bushing on a rebuild... James
  19. I ran a long ram 64 Chrysler 300K convertible hard in high school. I purchased new hardened keys from someplace on someones recommendation. That 413 was 390HP and a lot of torque. I never busted a key. Same basic axle. The only reason I am going to go to a 9 inch ford for the 1947 Desoto is the big desoto uses a larger rearend, 12 bolt ring gear, and I have not been able to find a NOS 4.11 ring and pinion. The 4.3 works but is a little too much in town in second OD. I also want to get a 12 inch drum brake that is self adjusting. A pinion that never leaks is another plus... Currie can make one up but in the end it will be like $4k. James
  20. Have fun. I keep asking the club to have the convention in September so that if we wanted to drive across the USA from California we would not be doing it in the summer heat. They keep insisting that they have to do it in the summer as kids are off school, but the two conventions I have attended you could count the kids with one hand. Enjoy the drive and the convention. I look forward to reading and see the photos of the meet. James
  21. Lucky here in the San Francisco Bay Area that it really does not freeze much. Good old alcohol is a perfect anti-freeze, the only thing is every few months it flashed off. But, one can dump alcohol without the green police getting on your back. The soluble oil is also non-toxic. James
  22. If the trans was from a standard clutch, you need to get a fluid drive input pinion and swap it. Other than the controls, works just fine. I have one in the '48 Desoto Suburban. James
  23. I think this is an interesting subject. One historical thing I noted was that in 1960 the LAPD required that its replacement fleet of cars had to "share oil" with the engine. These were 318 blocks or 383 blocks I think. The only trans that could meet the spec was the Powerflite not the Torqueflite. One thing I have never found out was did that spec mean the engine and trans had oil circulating between then or the LAPD just wanted to stock only one oil... James
  24. This is the stuff I used... https://www.banditshobbies.com/store/p7543/TAMIYA_%2381025%3A_X-25_Clear_GREEN_Acrylic_Model_Paint%2C_23ml_Bottle.html James
  25. I do not run any anti-freeze so that I can dump the water on my driveway here in San Francisco without having the Green Police on my back. I use water wetter and soluble oil and that is it. If I was going to head up into the mountains in Winter, I would just put some alcohol in it. I run a 180F thermostat and it is not pressurized. One can drill and tap the side of the water neck above the thermostat easy enough and put in one of those little tiny moon eyes thermometers. I did that to cross check the dash gauge. As long as the radiator is good, distribution tube is good, the head gasket is good and it is not running lean the the car should not overheat. Since it is not a big deal on a flathead to pull the head, just take it off and put a new gasket on it. While the head is off, take out the block side drain cock and run water via a a section of 3/8 brake line attached to a garden hose and blow water in and around the bottom of the cylinders through the jacket holes in the deck as that is where crap settles. A lot of it will drain out the side of the block. Just make sure to not cause water to bubble up and into the cylinders or pull the pan at the same time and clean it out and leave it off until you are done with the water trick. Then oil down the cylinders to take care of any water and then put the pan back on, then the head. Don't forget the block stop cock! If a power brake unit. Plug it and drive it of the smoke goes away you know that is it. James
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