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Everything posted by James_Douglas

  1. Anyone have a P15 frame sheet they can scan and post? Thanks, James
  2. Well, I took and hour this afternoon and pulled off the relay for the first time in 15 years. I pried the little flanges back and the inside looked as good as new. I ran a relay file through the contacts, but there were fine and then cleaned with elctro-motive cleaner. I let it dry and put some electrical corrosion spray on an the contacts and closed it up. I doubt that was it. That would have been too easy. In the morning, I will jack the car up and check the wiring. I am hoping I just switched the wires on the solenoid. But that would be odd if it can work with them switched. Anyone have any other ideas? James
  3. Thanks Sniper, interesting video. I noted that at 3500 RPM it looks like they loose 25 foot pounds of torque and 50 foot pounds of HP. That works out to 6% on torque and 14% on HP. For a 265 of 120 HP that would shave off about 16 HP. Of course this is more or less as the torque curves of these two engines is so much different. But the fan RPM is the fan RPM so it should be close. That is why I am interested in taking both the fan and the water pump off and going all electric. James
  4. I just use a rubber line over the top of the head. Size does not really matter much. I put a slip barb on the vacuum advance and at the carb. Just slip the hose one and route as one wants. James
  5. I am wondering if there is something wrong with the relay and the points are sticking...or something... This is stumping me. Later today I will take a couple of hours and see if I can run it down. The odd thing is otherwise it is running fine. Keep tossing out ideas folks, the more the better. James
  6. As long as the throttle is pressing on the kickdown switch, the relay has no path to ground and the high amp wire should be dead. See photo attached.... Am I reading this wrong? James
  7. After sleeping on it, and thinking about it, all night... For reasons not known when the kickdown switch is used the relay is supposed to open and keep both the governor circuit and the high currant circuit which is active as the car is over 25 MPH. I will check the relay and see if the points look like there is a problem. Anyone have any other ideas? James
  8. That is what is odd. For 15 years I noted that when the governor does its thing and the high current circuit comes in and pushed the pawl into the blocker ring that there is a momentary move of the needle of the AMP gauge. I have not paid much attention since I put the rebuilt trans in. It still does the above when it is going to allow a shift into OD. But today coming up the a small hill when I used the kickdown then again a few minutes later when I was climbing Waldo grade to the GG Bridge I noted the amp gauge up at 20 amps or so. When I crested the hills and the unit re-engaged the amp gauge dropped back to normal. Somehow when the kickdown switch opens the low amp holding circuit of the solenoid and the then grounds the coil which allows the the spring in the solenoid to pull out the pawl the high amp circuit is coming on. What I do not know is why? Will the thing work with the wires crossed on the solenoid ? Is the pawl the wrong one as I think I have a couple or three and they are a little different in length. I know that there were a couple of different length solenoids and I wonder if I played mix and match and created a problem? It would not be good to have that circuit that hot for a long time. I need to figure this out. Anyone have any ideas? James
  9. Can anyone confirm or not that when you press your foot down and kick down the BW Overdrive that the solenoid main coil stays "hot" as long as you hold it in direct drive? I just do not remember. I was heading back from out of town and coming up the long grade to the GG Bridge and noticed the AMP gauge was drawing 20 AMPS. As soon as I rounded the top of the hill and the OD engaged it stopped. When you drive down the street and hit 25 MPH there is a momentary blip of the amp meter and that is it. I thought that it did the same thing when you used the kickdown but now I am not sure. Everything is working as it should. I just do not think that the thing was drawing a full load going up a mountain or big hill. My little voice is telling me something is wrong. I just went through the books and it says nothing. \ Anyone out there with a BW OD that is working fine that can take it out for a drive and tell me if yours show the draw while the kickdown is engaged.... Thanks, James
  10. I decided to pass on the car. Just too much work! I still need to rebuild the '47 Desoto. I almost purchased a 1956 Windsor T&C this morning. She wanted $20K I offered $17.5K. The average of four price guides is $15K. A basic no deal. No counter. I am still hunting for a 1958 or 1959 Desoto 4 door hard top. The only ones I have found were over priced junk. James
  11. Well, Monday was a 14 hour day of car driving to look at two cars and pick up some parts at a auto bone yard. First a look at a car on the Dark Side. A 1956 Chevy 4 door hardtop that looked good in photos and description. Crate 350, 700R power rack and AC. The only problem is that I found fiberglass in the trunk pan, a lot of it. God knows what is under the pain on this car. For $30K it should have been near perfect for a 4 door. We then went and picked up some parts for the '47 Desoto. Next we drive a couple of hours and looked at a extremely tired 1954 Chrysler. This one is a eight passenger sedan. It will need everything. Most of it is there. But there are some missing rear fender trim. That could be hard as the long wheel base cars used different trim. This car is basically my 1947 Desoto with the updated box body of the first half of the 1950's. Same 139.5 inch wheelbase. I looked up some of the parts in the master parts book and it looks like the spindles and drums are the same part numbers. I suspect that all of the low production LWB cars share a lot of parts. I have found only one other of this model in the internet. A black one. That one had factory AC. This car does not. My only question is given my space limitations and my bad back, do I really want to take on this behemoth? It would sure look nice in a 2 tone pain like the Chrysler dark red with a off white top. A red leather interior and darkened windows from the back door back and the thing would look cool! Decisions, decisions. James
  12. You have the small bolt circle...mine are 5 x 5.5 with a 3.8 inch center hub, much larger. James
  13. I do not remember if I posted this or not. The forum guys may want to post it to the repair section. It is my list of bearings and seal part numbers for the three speed with overdrive. One can direct order a lot of it from SKF on the vehicles aftermarket website. I cleaned them out of a few items yesterday, but in a month they should have more in stock. Best, James bearing_list2.pdf
  14. It is great to see someone putting in such effort on a long wheelbase car. Rarely happens. I had to get a new rear end pumpkin and the only thing I would find was a 4.3 gear set. I have tried to find a NOS 4.1 without any luck. In the event that you rebuilt your pumpkin as apposed to just swapped it out...and you have your old gears sitting in a box...I would love some detailed photos of the ring and pinion. I suspect that the the 12 bolt long wheelbase ring gears MAY have been used from the 1930's all the way to 1954 in the long wheel base cars. The Chrysler Parts Books sort of hint at it if you look them all over. But Chrysler did change part numbers sometimes because they changed suppliers although the gears were functionally the same. Since the LWB cars were such a low production item, a lot of the documentation is weak on parts. Great work! I am going to look at a 1954 New Yorker 8 Passenger next week. It is very rough. I am also going to the dark side and looking at a done 1956 Chevy Bel Air 4 door hard top. We will see...I really need to take the 1947 Desoto Suburban off line after 20 years of using it as out primary car. It just needs everything, although so far the rebuilt trans and BW-OD is working ok. Keep it up, I look forward to seeing it on the road. James
  15. The three big issue is the back space. To clear the caliper it has to be about 1.9 inch. VERY few wheels have that kind of back space. The only ones I have found are the Rocket Racing Solid wheels and outside laced wire wheels. DB Tire has a new tire that is 16 inch with a diameter of 29.4 inch. The old DB tires I am using (yokohama) are 29.3 inch. It MAY be that I can find a steel wheel that has a offset more than 1.9 that will clear due to the larger diameter. Maybe. The size of the hubs are not to be dismissed. They are much larger than the standard sedans. NOBODY makes a kit for these cars. That is why I had to work with someone to custom make it. He made one set for myself and one for a guy in Texas. He then told me that it was so much work that they were not going to put it in their catalog. James.
  16. The disc brake conversion was done by ECI brakes. The problem is a very poor execution of the build of the steel wheels. Unfortunately the folks that did the wheels are no longer around and there are not any 5x5.5 centers that are a "weld all around" style being made just the 4 flange geni type and the edges of those flanges is what is flexing and digging into the hoop causing the failure. The disc's were sourced from a dodge pick up of the same basic curb weight as the Desoto. The uprights, the spindles and the hubs are all much larger then the sedans, couples and convertibles. That is why we used the stock hubs. Unless I want to cut off the front end there is no other solution. Either I go back to drums or I need to find a wheel that will fit. Cutting off the front end is not a solution I am interested in. Nor is getting into milling custom hubs. Instead of some snark, how about some creative practical ideas? James
  17. Thanks guys for the leads. I had the "larger 15 inch wheels on the car (factory stock) that are the same as the larger T&C. They do not clear the calipers. I emailed the guys at bassett. I did find a Rocket Racing Wheel called a solid has a 1.8 inch back space in a 16 inch wheel. That may work. If I can fit clips for a hub cap it may work. I am looking into that. My other option is wires with an outside lace. I just worry about coming out of a motel and having the car on mike crates if I go with wire wheels... James
  18. Sniper this was a all custom job. The discs are from a dodge truck but they are machined to increase the size of the center hole. James.
  19. I have a pile of them from dorman. But, they are a few thousands smaller in diameter than the steel ones and if that hole is at all opened up due to rust and the like, they may well not hold. I too use JB weld on all of them now, steel or brass. But like I said, I am going to machine the block to take the cup style. I could care less on the '47 if it looks stock or not. On the 1949, I machined the "correct" tool to pound or press the disc plugs down as specified by one of the manufacturers. It has a step that stops the plug for being driven too far and the nipple of the tool creates a wide pressure across the entire face. James
  20. The issue is the calipers and the size of the hubs which are very big. The rotors are the size they are because of the hubs. Both front and rear. James
  21. I have to say the state of play with so called custom wheel shops is sad. Some my remember my posts on my wheel issues on the 1947 Desoto. It is getting so bad that I may have to convert the car back from disc brakes just because of the wheel issue. For those just chiming in the Big Desoto uses the large wheelbase and nothing is common with the regular Sedans and Coupes. The problem is the 15 inch rim and the fact that it is narrow and the disc requires a very short back space of 1.9 inch. The ones made by Stockton Wheel 15 years ago are all slowly failing. One had a major failure. I have called all over the USA and every wheel business that says they make custom steel wheels really does not. They have some suppliers that sell them centers and rims and they play mix and match but none of them are actually making custom wheels. I MAY be able to get a tire from DB Tire that is the same diameter in 16 as their 15. Shorter side wall. But I have no idea if a stock 16 inch pre war wheel would clear. In the even anyone has a 16 inch wheel with the larger center hole (Center hole is 3.915 inch (3-7/8 nominal)) that is 5 bolt on a 5.5 inch pattern...I would like to barrow it to see if it would clear. I will pay for a crate and shipping it both ways. The only other option is custom wires with an outside lace. But sure as hell we will be at some Motel one night traveling the country and I will walk out and those wheels will be gone. Even though they will not fit on much of anything else... If someone has a brain storm and an idea let me know. My only other choice is to build them myself which I really do not want to to. Thanks, James
  22. I have driven the car a bunch in the last few days and the trans and OD are working fine. The sticking on 2nd gear happens sometimes and sometimes not. I do not think it is related to the oil as I am using 50W now versus 10W before. Heavy oil slows down the shafts sooner and usually improves the syncro action. It may be a linkage issue, but I suspect that it is a syncro that may have a burr that needs to wear in. It is not doing it on the other gears. The OD is shifting smoother then a modern automatic. Quite nice considering that the planet gear assembly is old and I could feel some wear in the non replaceable needle bearings. I am hoping that the new ring gear and sun gear will help lengthen the life of the old planet gear set. I am going to take the car to my place out of town later in the week. That is a 160 miles round trip at 65-70 MPH most of the way. We will see how she does. James
  23. Can these be replaced if need be once the engine is in the car and the bell housing in on? James
  24. I have had problems with the disc type leaking. The issue is the walls of the block where the disc's sit get rusted up over time and even when a block is acid dipped it is rough in there and it weeps. I had some brass discs pop out many years ago. Turns out the brass ones were slightly smaller than the steel ones. One can try and find my posts on that from 15 years ago... When I do the 265 block we are going to machine the holes through and perfectly round to use a cup style plug. James
  25. Hello, I would replace the silent block (front of the rear leaf spring) and the rear shackle bushings. Then I would make sure you grease the from end VERY well. Check the grease in the front wheel bearings and set them to the book specification for end play, not the tighten the nut then back off one flat shade tree approach. You may have to get a shim or sand the thrust washer behind the nut to get it perfect. This last step can make a much larger difference in these old cars than most people think. Then take it for a ride. If it still feels bad when driving it, then you may have to pull the king pins and the spindle and have new bushings put in. I STRONGLY recommend that you try and find a king pin set that has the bushing-bearing not the bushing-bushing. See my old posts on my 1949 Convertible. The bushing-bearing combination makes for MUCH lighter steering. Then take it into a shop and have an alignment done. Have them do a "Tram" measurement to make sure that the 9 inch ford was put in parallel to the front end. Check the castor and have them give as much as you can get within the specifications. Also, make sure you are using the narrowest tires you can get if using modern radials as the contact patch was much smaller on the old tires and the steering is stiffer with wider ones. DB Tire makes a radial with a small contact patch that looks like the old tires, but they are not cheap. Go through the steering box adjustments in the service manual to make sure it is correct. After all that you should be ok. If not, then some more serious is going on. James
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