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Everything posted by James_Douglas

  1. The 46-48 Desoto uses a painted color prism at the base of the needle.
  2. If you read the book on the development of Chrysler's engines...the section on the slant six where they talk about the issues with the aluminum vs the iron blocks...there are references to the issues of drilling the blocks. Problems with long drill bits in production. I suspect that the different sizes may have something to due with the need to not have long bits fail in production. Just a thought...it may have nothing to do with engineering and everything to do with production issues. James
  3. If it is a 1953 block, there is a chance that it has the block that was designed for use with the fluid torque drive what shared the oil with the "new" converter. They may have made the change in the block to support that even if they did not drill the back of the block with the hole that fed out of the block. James
  4. Assuming the speed works and you are just needing to deal with the color... What I did 20 years ago... I went to a local model shop and purchased red, green and yellow transparent paint. it was from a Japanese manufacturer if I remember correctly. This stuff allows light to pass through. I purchased a very fine small brush and I painted the plastic prism just like AutoLite did when they made the speedometer. One work of caution. I painted the green too dark and the light barely comes through until I hit about 34 MPH and the yellow comes in. So, go thin on the color green and red. James
  5. They do not make anything under 17 inch...
  6. The rear cam "bearing" being the block itself is known to wear. Back in the day there were restriction devices that were sold so that oil pressure would not drop off due to that wear. They come up on ebay now and then. I would spend more time, money and effort into making sure that the diameter of the rear cam bearing was correct than worrying about the gallery size. When I do my next flathead, I plan on drilling and busing the rear cam "bearing" area so it is back to factory spec. I have wondered what that "slop" at the rear of the cam is going to the valve geometry over time. I know it is not a lot, but the pressure of the valves on the cam must cause the ass end of the cam to "wobble" a very little bit due to the clearance. I have measured a couple of blocks and some at almost at spec and some are way over. My 2 cents worth. James ******* Related: One of my blocks that had a rod failure hot the block right on the oil gallery. It did not go through, but it did take a little block out when it hit. To be paranoid, I drilled the gallery out just a little and put a sleeve in it. I did the opposite of what Loren talked about. I got a three flute bit as I was taking a very small amount off. It worked fine. I pounded in the sleeve and the block it sitting in a corner. The old automotive engineering block that was first in the 1949 Desoto that had the oil pushing into the water system is waiting for me to go looking to find out where. It is a shame as that engine ran well as has very low miles on it. Either there is a gallery problem or more likely a rust through on the floor of the water jacket above a gallery. In any event, I would pressure test both the oil gallery and the water jacket on any flathead block that I had not been running to make sure.
  7. Some 15 or more years ago, I got 2 or 3 carbs and rebuilt them. New throttle shafts and new butterfly's. Everything was done by the book. They still idled not so good. Not bad, but not great. What I discovered is that there are emulsion tubes in the passages of the BB Carb. They are behind some of those little plugs that at hammered into the housing. The problem is that the old lead gas essentially sand blasted them over the years. They tend to go to crap. The only way to fix it is to buy the tools and find the hard parts and rebuild the bare housing with new emulsion tubes. About the time I was going to do that, I ran across a NOS Carter BB for a latter dodge that used a fluid coupling with a stick. It had an adjustable dashpot on it. I put it on and it has been great for 15 years. Idles great and because it never saw any lead gas the tubes are not going to get beat to crap as the fuel flows through them. Either you have to go all in and call John at the Carburetor Shop and pay for a couple of kits and then all the hard parts and tools...plus a day or two at the bench...or...get a langdon progressive as long as one is not running a fluid coupling. James
  8. First thing is take the linkage off the one end. Then carefully loosen the butterfly screws and see if you can get a tight seal. If you can then carefully tighten them. If not then you either need to buy a new shaft and butterfly or find a better core to rebuild. James
  9. The issue with a mill is you cannot check the wheel to hole indexing unless they have an indexed spinner table attachment on the mill. On a big ass lathe, they can put a dial indicator on it and move the jaws to get it dead centered much better. When the cut is made it would be very accurate and it would take up any mis-indexing when they welded the center to the hoop. It is all able to be done on a mill, but a mill would take a very thoughtful machinist or the spinner table which I have not see on a mill in a long time. The other option is for it to be cut on the jet cutter, but again, getting it dead center is the issue. I would do it, but my lathe is way too small. James
  10. Adam, I have thought of that. It is also a PITA if you are on a cross country run with a flat. Although I do have AAA and they carry several jacks. When I went over all my books again I found references to the 1946 to 1948 Long Wheelbase cars showing the following wheels all 5 holes on a 5-1/2 inch bolt pattern: 16 by 4.5 inch 15 by 5 Inch 15 by 5.5 Inch 15 by 6 Inch These showed up in the 1946 to 1948 Desoto Mater Parts Book, the 1940 to 1954 MOPAR Master Parts Book, the Canadian 1949 Master Parts Book and the Hollander Interchange. So, all the above wheel sizes were used on this one make and model or so the documentation shows. Diamond Back makes a 16 inch tire in their new Auburn series that is a 600R16 that is 28.1 inches tall, tread width of 5 inches for the nice steering, section width of 6.4 which would help with the rear fender issues, uses a 4 to 6 inch rim and has a 1609 pound load capacity. If I used that with a 16 by 4.5 inch steel wheel that is being made by ( https://www.wheelvintiques.com/all-wheels/gennie-bare-finish.html ) with a 2.75 inch back space then I would need a 0.85 inch spacer which is not too much. Between the spacer and the 16 inch wheel it should clear the caliper. It MAY fit without the spacer. The center hole would have to be cut very carefully. I would take it to a machine shop with a lathe large enough to lathe cut the hole with the wheel rim perfectly centered. James.
  11. To get the OD in and out there is a very fussy procedure where you have to pull the cable arm out of the case a bit to get it to come or on. Do to the Imperial Website and read over all the repair booklets. James
  12. The main shaft if different between the non-OD and the OD units. You would have to gut the old unit no matter what. If it is out, just rebuild the 1953 unit with the OD and then put it in. See my long threads on the rebuilding of my units both in the last few months and around 2006. I have another on the bench that that to put together in the nest few weeks. I also posed a week or two back a spread sheet with all the bearing and seal numbers. James
  13. I may have come up with a solution. I found a company that makes custom wheel spacers. I may be able to use an existing steel wheel and use a custom spacer to deal with the backspace. The fly in the ointment may be the left hand thread. They make pug bolts to attach the spacer to the hub and the spacer has lug studs on it. The question is can I come up with left hand thread lug bolts long enough to go through the adapter and the disc brake rotors. The other fly in the ointment is will I be able to get the rear wheel off due to the fender hanging down so low. The other interesting question is on wheel width. My various books show a wheel at 15x5 for the long wheelbase cars (12 inch drums) as well as 15x5.5 and 15x6. No agreement at all. Interesting is that the early production LWB cars used 16x4.5 inch wheels. A 16x4.5 can take a DB Tire that is a 650R16. If I can find a steel wheel that size I may be able to get the rear tire off. These custom adapter's open up some possibilities. I just need to run them down. James
  14. Thanks! What I wanted to see is if my Desoto frame was wider at the approximate point where the steering box is. Unfortunately it looks about the same. The P15 that got a slant six fit and cleared the steering box. But, the steering box on a Desoto Suburban is much larger, due to the weight of the car, than the rest of line up. I am going to have to find someone to measure their p15 steering box from the frame rail to the max distance from the rail and check mine and see how much more mine sticks into the engine bay. A slant six many or may not fit. James
  15. Well, Spent the day in the engine bay and under the car. All the wires go exactly were they are supposed to. I spent several hours taking apart the kickdown switch. My spare may be up in Winters as it is not here in San Francisco. I have a spare solenoid, rail lockout switch and relay in the car...but not a kickdown. I pulled the wire at the relay from the "A" side of the kickdown and put a VOM on it and when I wiggled the switch I got a inconsistent reading (sound). I pulled the switch and took it to the bench and tried it and it felt and sounded, with the VOM attached, a little "flaky". Since I do not have a spare here, I pulled the little metal tabs and took the switch apart. What I found was interesting. The gasket that sits between the bakelite bottom and the shell has shrunk so much that it was crowding the actual switch mechanism. I then cut a new gasket, but my material is a little ticker and it did not make really positive contacts when I pushed in the plunger. I even stretched the two springs a little that push up to the contacts. So I took out the gasket and put the switch back together nice an tight. I then used a little silicon to seal the case to the bakelite from the outside and wiped off the excess. I checked all the connections and wires. Everything nice and tight. I also took the cap off the solenoid and although I had cleaned it well when I had the trans out and bench tested it, I hit all the contacts with elecro-motive spray cleaner all the same. It is busy here in SF on a sunny Saturday so I could not extensively road test it. I did manage to get it to shift into 2nd overdrive then kick it down hard and race the thing for a block. The AMP gauge read normal. No big draw. So, I still do not know what it was. A sticking relay? The kickdown was somehow causing a problem? I do not know. I will take it out on Monday after the commute up to Sausalito and drive it back up Waldo Grade and see what happens on the long hill. Odd. Very odd. Thanks for the ideas. James
  16. Anyone have a P15 frame sheet they can scan and post? Thanks, James
  17. Well, I took and hour this afternoon and pulled off the relay for the first time in 15 years. I pried the little flanges back and the inside looked as good as new. I ran a relay file through the contacts, but there were fine and then cleaned with elctro-motive cleaner. I let it dry and put some electrical corrosion spray on an the contacts and closed it up. I doubt that was it. That would have been too easy. In the morning, I will jack the car up and check the wiring. I am hoping I just switched the wires on the solenoid. But that would be odd if it can work with them switched. Anyone have any other ideas? James
  18. Thanks Sniper, interesting video. I noted that at 3500 RPM it looks like they loose 25 foot pounds of torque and 50 foot pounds of HP. That works out to 6% on torque and 14% on HP. For a 265 of 120 HP that would shave off about 16 HP. Of course this is more or less as the torque curves of these two engines is so much different. But the fan RPM is the fan RPM so it should be close. That is why I am interested in taking both the fan and the water pump off and going all electric. James
  19. I just use a rubber line over the top of the head. Size does not really matter much. I put a slip barb on the vacuum advance and at the carb. Just slip the hose one and route as one wants. James
  20. I am wondering if there is something wrong with the relay and the points are sticking...or something... This is stumping me. Later today I will take a couple of hours and see if I can run it down. The odd thing is otherwise it is running fine. Keep tossing out ideas folks, the more the better. James
  21. As long as the throttle is pressing on the kickdown switch, the relay has no path to ground and the high amp wire should be dead. See photo attached.... Am I reading this wrong? James
  22. After sleeping on it, and thinking about it, all night... For reasons not known when the kickdown switch is used the relay is supposed to open and keep both the governor circuit and the high currant circuit which is active as the car is over 25 MPH. I will check the relay and see if the points look like there is a problem. Anyone have any other ideas? James
  23. That is what is odd. For 15 years I noted that when the governor does its thing and the high current circuit comes in and pushed the pawl into the blocker ring that there is a momentary move of the needle of the AMP gauge. I have not paid much attention since I put the rebuilt trans in. It still does the above when it is going to allow a shift into OD. But today coming up the a small hill when I used the kickdown then again a few minutes later when I was climbing Waldo grade to the GG Bridge I noted the amp gauge up at 20 amps or so. When I crested the hills and the unit re-engaged the amp gauge dropped back to normal. Somehow when the kickdown switch opens the low amp holding circuit of the solenoid and the then grounds the coil which allows the the spring in the solenoid to pull out the pawl the high amp circuit is coming on. What I do not know is why? Will the thing work with the wires crossed on the solenoid ? Is the pawl the wrong one as I think I have a couple or three and they are a little different in length. I know that there were a couple of different length solenoids and I wonder if I played mix and match and created a problem? It would not be good to have that circuit that hot for a long time. I need to figure this out. Anyone have any ideas? James
  24. Can anyone confirm or not that when you press your foot down and kick down the BW Overdrive that the solenoid main coil stays "hot" as long as you hold it in direct drive? I just do not remember. I was heading back from out of town and coming up the long grade to the GG Bridge and noticed the AMP gauge was drawing 20 AMPS. As soon as I rounded the top of the hill and the OD engaged it stopped. When you drive down the street and hit 25 MPH there is a momentary blip of the amp meter and that is it. I thought that it did the same thing when you used the kickdown but now I am not sure. Everything is working as it should. I just do not think that the thing was drawing a full load going up a mountain or big hill. My little voice is telling me something is wrong. I just went through the books and it says nothing. \ Anyone out there with a BW OD that is working fine that can take it out for a drive and tell me if yours show the draw while the kickdown is engaged.... Thanks, James
  25. I decided to pass on the car. Just too much work! I still need to rebuild the '47 Desoto. I almost purchased a 1956 Windsor T&C this morning. She wanted $20K I offered $17.5K. The average of four price guides is $15K. A basic no deal. No counter. I am still hunting for a 1958 or 1959 Desoto 4 door hard top. The only ones I have found were over priced junk. James
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