wayfarer

I thought that these had a drop-out carrier...?

...surprised to find this on page 2 w/o any comments...where are the big-truck guys?

There are many carbs that will 'fit'...are you asking about an exact replacement or something that can be adapted with minimal effort?

There must be someone from this site in the MD area that can get eyes on it.....

"speed parts" is a bit vague.... I will always recommend the Mopar Electronic Ignition for the early engines. Some zombie-combos appear to work well so you get to decide what is best for your application and your skill set. Your engine will not accept the LA distributor as-is however, you will need a longer intermediate shaft. If you are on a budget and have some shop tools you can do the work yourself or just buy one out-right. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/331-354-hemi-intermediate-shaft-for-la-dist.357793/ .

...quick answer is no.... Take a look at the photos I have on my website and you'll quickly see the differences in the block's bolt patterns.

...seems to me that 'crankshaft thrust line and vibration' is a topic better suited to conversation about aircraft than automobiles. If you have written a white paper on the subject I'd happily read it or, just a link that is germane to automobiles would be interesting.

...actually, this would not be treated kindly on the Hamb.

Track width is not the same as WMS width since track width is dependent on the amount of offset in the wheel. I have some WMS numbers on my web site: http://www.qualityengineeredcomponents.com/?page_id=1023 you just need to decide where the tires need to be and work backward through the wheel offset to get to the WMS number.

...a couple of random thoughts... I will have to see if a torque converter will fit under that bell housing and come up with a flex plate and crankshaft adaptor. I want the starter to be the original 6 volt and stay in the exact same place. The stock 6-volt starter attaches to the oem bell in a specific location relative to the crank centerline. This is exactly what is required for a 146 tooth flywheel/converter. Now, change to a different tooth count and the diameter changes. The Mopar 143 tooth is 14.0" nominal diameter compared to the 146 at 14.6" so the starter has to move to maintain proper engagement. Not so bad to make a small 0.030" adjustment. The next issue is that the 62-64 TF converter has a 130 tooth count converter. Now what? Here is a photo of the difference although the larger wheel is actually a late model 143 not a 146........ Yes, there were some 143 tooth converters used with the 426 Hemi engine during the 60's but not sure that it was '64, which would be the only overlap. Granted, if you throw enough money at the project you can make anything fit/work so modifying a 130 tooth converter to mount a 146 t ring gear should be a walk in the park. For my own curiosity, what make the stock bell/starter so inviolate? You should be able to attach new rear mounts to an appropriate adapter plate or the rear of the block and/or trans bolts and sure would seem to be less costly than 40 hours of machine time to sort out the bellhousing cutting-chopping scenario. Just curious.

The Dak had some major changes for the 97 model year, same as the first year for the Durango. Most folks dislike the 6-lug wheels that showed up on the Gen II models. The Dak frames are about the best width of any potential swaps and the length can be changed as needed. The position of the rear kick-up should be checked for fit to wheel well, then dust off your fab skills. There is also plenty of conversation with regards to the firewall. You might consider just using the front IFS clip.

Since you apparently don't have much history with the old Mopes your brain may be remembering old Ford or gm front suspension designs which are inferior to the Mopar. A properly rebuilt system with disc brakes and new shock mounts will surprise most folks. Although the MII is popular in many circles it is not inexpensive or a weekend project. .

..or maybe not...I have been making an adapter for many years that will accommodate the late model 'one-piece' type transmissions and sales have been so lack-luster that when the current inventory is gone so might be the adapter. The problem is that the one-piece units require removal of the oem bell and very few folks are willing/able to actually do the needed fabrication to make it/them work. This is also true of Pat McGuire's gm adapter for the L engines. I'm guessing that a lot of folks just like to talk.... sad to hear about the shiverlay parts.......

...really? what was it? from wiki: Eight cylinder[edit] Inline 8[edit]Inline 8 cylinder - Chrysler's early flathead inline 8-cylinder 5.3 L engine used on cars such as Airflows, DeSotos and Imperials. With side valves and aluminium pistons, this was a low-rpm engine that produced about 120 hp (89 kW). V8[edit] FirePower - Chrysler's first V8 and first hemi engine, introduced in 1951 for Chrysler and Imperial. DeSoto and Dodge each received their own, unique smaller hemi line of engines in 1952 and 1953, called the FireDome and Red Ram,respectively . These engines, taken together, are now referred to as "1G" (1st generation) hemis, all have rear-mounted distributors. Polyspheric - A polyspheric design introduced in 1955, derived from the FirePower for Plymouth.

As mentioned, find a dmv office without a 3-hr waiting line...if that is even possible.... or ask around at one of your local wrecking yards or tow yards to see if they have the name of an employee that you could contact. The yards do a lot of title work and not doubt have a work-around- method.

Depending on how much go-power is needed, the 4.7 is a strong performer and would be a lot cheaper. My '02 Durango has over 150K on the clock and still runs hard.

How similar is the 41 to a 50? Fester has a tidy install with an oem manifold: http://p15-d24.com/topic/25759-318-into-my-50-coronet/page-3

E-body rear axle is just under 62". Just not a cheap or as plentiful as in days gone by.....

ooops....ya caught me on that...but Merle has a good idea! You could also do a little deductive measuring knowing where the axle nests in the hub and back out the numbers from there. Yup, you'll need a helper.

First, it seems odd that your chain is so exact that it will not accommodate 0.003" mis-alignment between sprockets. Soft shim stock, like brass or aluminum, will cold flow as you worry, but a steel shim under the anticipated usage will not migrate any faster than the crank snout itself. If such a small amount is critical could you not just remove 0.003 from the cam sprocket or is something else in the way?

Currently mine has the brakes and drums off, so I cant just throw a tape on it! Thanks guys. Why not? Are the axles missing? If not, clamp a piece of bar stock to each flange and drag your tape between the two....

One of the first lessons I learned as a freshly minted engineer was to evaluate previous examples of whatever I was doing and learn from others mistakes...just sayin'.....

The Dakota Gen I is probably the least costly IFS to install in these trucks. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/52-dodge-b3b-hemi-project.742584/

Ran across this while searching for information on my Perkins diesel: http://www.foleyengines.com/resources/product-guides-forms-tags/chrysler-218-236-251-service-manual It may, or may not be useful......

Coating old concrete can be problematic if the surface is not sound, full of contaminates or has a lot of cracks. The biggest issue will be the amount of moisture under the slab that migrates through the slab/cracks and causes topical coatings to separate and lift. As mentioned, you may need to cut the top off to get to something usable.