wayfarer

Rear sump pans are available for the B&RB. If you 'think' that a 4-link is superior to leafs on a street car then consider all of the R&D that MaMopar put into leaf systems for all of the muscle cars as well as the SuperStock drag cars in the 60's and 70's. If you want a 4-link because you think they add some 'cool' factor then go for it. IMHO, Mopar leaf systems are the way to go for a combined package of ride quality, traction control, cost and ease of installation.

There are those of us who have had good success using vinegar, Yes it is acidic but very weak...you can drink the stuff ya know.... I have filled cooling systems in drivable cars with vinegar to cut through the internal rust and it has worked OK. If you are worried about the vinegar somehow continuing to work on the cast iron after it has been flushed then add a box of baking soda to a rinse/flush cycle. Another good rust cutter is molasses. Buy it in bulk at a farm supply and cut it 10:1 or so. It is slow but very effective.

...I'll stick to propane.....

On my web site I have some axle widths listed so you can compare to what you have now: http://www.qualityengineeredcomponents.com/?page_id=1023

As Bill notes, you could buy the shorty's and do a trial fit, just don't bang them up too much. I would certainly recommend removing the front clip to get access. This is Bill's engine build thread: http://p15-d24.com/topic/35470-hemi-build/page-37

OK Bill, its been a month....how is it progressing?

The issue of head thickness is typical for many heads including OHV. The only way to determine if cutting 'x' amount will bump compression is to measure the combustion chamber as previously noted. I have heard some folks say that they simply measure the head thickness through a bolt hole but that can be an issue if the bosses were ever spot-faced to remove any galling. As to multi-carbs, I am a bit on the lazy side and tuning one carb is enough for me. I'd suggest adapting a more modern 2-bbl. There has been some conversation on 'progressive' 2-bbls in previous threads and there is no shortage of carbs to pick-n-choose from during the 60's, 70's and early 80's. My 2¢.

It seems so odd to me that replacing the entire chassis with something that, really is not that close to start with, is somehow better than putting in a Dakota Gen 1 clip and Explorer axle....must be just me...but what I have seen over the years is exactly what the OP stated: he, and many others, can't afford the shiverlay he likes so he buys a Dodge and tries to turn it into one... Apparently this approach is popular with lots-o-shiverlay folk who are on a budget. Your money, your car......

Agree with Don, the old wheels and radials are not a good combo, if that is what you have. As for the weight of the vehicle, 30psi is 30 psi.....

I did a rt-click on the red truck pic and it copied w/o issue.....but I do agree about folks who keep secrets.......

For the life of me I cannot figure out how a shiverlay swap is less costly than an A-LA swap...someone please enlighten me. You really need to read through the various forums and see just how much work is involved in doing a v8 swap of any kind. If you expect to actually have a decent driver you will be spending plenty of money on all of the 'little' details that folks don't like to talk about. If all you're after is some kind of rat-rod that scares the rest of us on the road then perhaps the costs will be less... Know your limitations.

...noticed a small freeze crack leaking oil behind my oil filter.... Perhaps I missed something here...even in the high desert it doesn't get cold enough to freeze oil... .

Starters by themselves interchange as a unit. You can use a later truck or pass car wiring layout for the solenoid. Sorry, but I don't have a truck parts manual to look up numbers...

I must be getting old. I don't often go 84 in the wife's Navigator..... not sure that I like the old suspension design well enough to gamble...

You will be sacrificing some power by using the smaller Ply engine...they don't have a lot to start with so where is your comfort zone? The Ply engine might be "worth the money" but is it a good value?.....

I'll disagree a little with JB Neal...a v-8 swap does not have to be complicated or overly expensive. Certainly does not require a frame swap... Look at this: http://p15-d24.com/topic/18782-dans-hemi-swap-project/ There is plenty of room for a A-LA engine (maybe even a B-RB) as Dan's project shows so well with the 354 Hemi. The biggest issues will be whether or not you need/want to keep the existing trans and the 'things' currently attached to the bellhousing. If you are also planning upgrades to the rear axle (required with a trans swap) or front disc brakes then a v-8 swap may be the next logical step. Yup, your money, your choices.....

Just had a chance to look for details and the Shell website says this is.... Shell Rotella® T1 is an easy-flow monograde providing quality lubrication and consistent performance with well-proven performance additives to fight engine corrosion and wear. I did not see this on the Walmart website. This is from the Shell website for Rotella Triple

https://www.youtube.com/embed/lgwF8mdQwlw

Bringing this thread back to see if bue50coronet ever made the swap. Any updates?

PM sent. This is where 'hot-rodding' starts. Don Coatney and Robert Horne have both installed 5-speeds but go at it from different angles. The Mopar units are bit more involved unless you can locate one of the 57-60 bellhousings that have both the L6 and V8 block patterns. Although not a simple bolt up, that bell is 'close' for the A-833.

Excellent information!

Most excellent! Thanks for the wiring info. I will be watching for any 'maintenance' issues.

...well, my '02 Ram2500 4x4 with the Cummins is my daily driver and around town it easily gets 19mpg...at least that what the computer says. No problem getting 500 miles from a tank of fuel and it has 233K on the clock. Maintenance with the 5.9 is really simple stuff. Power to tow? More than most folks ever need and the '02 is not the highest rated. In this area a decent 2000-2002 brings in about $12k and a really nice lo-miler in the $15 range. My 2¢

Just a couple of random thoughts... First, how is your daughter doing? Did you manage to get the computer security issue resolved? Process? Was the wiring harness just removed as-is from the donor car and unused bits left disconnected? Any foreseeable issues? Lastly, given the somewhat small working quarters the results are even more impressive.

Voltage should not be a deal breaker. It is easy enough to run two six volt batteries and supply 12v to the dizzy and 6v to everything else. You will need a 6/12 Series-Parallel Magnetic Switch or you can manually switch the charging between batteries. The magnetic switch is also most useful if you need to power a 12v starter in a 6v car.