wayfarer
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Everything posted by wayfarer
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...how bad would the clutch have to be in order to act like fluid-drive???
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I'd call/email other vendors and give them the Fastenal number and see if they can provide them. Nothing like a little friendly competition...
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1. The Fluid drive housing has a small tear in it (car hasn't run in 40 years). Can this be welded/repaired? Tear? How about a photo?
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Try McMaster-Carr or MSC http://www.mscdirect.com/ http://www.mcmaster.com/#
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Nice home-brew piece, but probably not going to last a long time with the (apparent) all-thread. I think that a piece of 1" Acme would be better for the long term. I am most curious as to the what and how of the end of the all-thd where it contacts the axle....all-thd is pretty soft in comparison.
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Lots-o-folks like the trucks in oem format....but, just perhaps, the Lady isn't one of your kin. She likes the looks and maybe 'needs' a more modern approach to drivability. I can't find anything wrong with her 'wants' ... now, if she was talking sbc then I'd happily bash the idea... MaMopar has give us plenty of swappable parts and pieces and idiot drivers have given us plenty of bone yards to scavenge from.... -
Photos and details are required now........
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The narrow track on the shiverlay is the biggest issue unless you are building a rat-rod with some goofy giant offset wheels.... The Dakota frame has been done successfully by many. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/53-dodge-truck-finally-of-the-dakota-chassis.349950/
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I agree, 15K will be tough, especially with the MII. I think the Dakota Gen-1 is a better swap. Here is some additional reading material: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/putting-a-chrysler-industrial-hemi-in-a-52-dodge-truck.455737/page-20#post-11401935 http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/52-dodge-b3b-hemi-project.742584/ .
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Have you tried these guys: http://www.dvap.com/
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Great for 'exterior' rust, not very useful for the 'insides' of anything. I wonder if you can run that off a windmill....?
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...isn't the idea of having 'grass' to have it go up in smoke...?
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...damn...that is a pile-o-work!
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If your luck runs like mine, as soon as you scrap them someone will need 'something'.... Maybe one of the other CA guys has some storage space.
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some help here: http://www.qualityengineeredcomponents.com/?page_id=1023
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360 in a Dodge 1950 Pilot House
wayfarer replied to MarkAubuchon's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
Try this: http://p15-d24.com/topic/18782-dans-hemi-swap-project/ -
...big brother is watching you scofflaws.......
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I spotted a 56-57 SW of Phoenix a couple weeks back while on vacation...did not have the luxury of time to investigate but can offer details if you find someone in that area. Also, there is a earlier 1½ or 2t located a few miles North of Madras, Oregon. Sits very near the road (Hwy 97), easily seen by passers-by and usually has farm generated scrap on the deck. I have driven past it hundreds of times and it hasn't moved..... You might use Google earth to see if shows up.
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...your 'high-tech' build did not suit the overlords...
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My experience says that you must keep the 218 flywheel with the 218 crank unless you are ok with making other one-off mods. As has been seen on other threads there are divergent opinions.
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Many late model designs have a flange at the rear of the trans and a u-joint/slip combo that bolts to the flange. The u-joint at the rear axle is 'normal'. Look around and you can see how they are assembled and you should be able to mimic the design or even modify an existing new-car part to fit the trans. https://sp.yimg.com/xj/th?id=OIP.Mf49a04d054de4684589af675a6e16bc8o0&pid=15.1&P=0&w=300&h=300
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This seems to be a recurring topic of the differences between the 201-208-218 and everything else..... I have measured many of both and the difference is in the projection of the crank flange from the face of the block. Yes, there are variations in flange thickness but the distance from the face of the block to the face (trans-side) of the flange is very consistent: 201-208-218 is 1.0" all else is 1-3/16". Yes some minor variation here due to wear on thrust bearing..... The bell housings that I have had are all the same depth (for similar applications). The Plymouth, with a 'shorter' crank, simply uses a flywheel with a deeper offset to reach the starter.
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X2 on Berrymans products .
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The rear door 'latch-assist' is nice......
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Never never never use WU /money gram for anything. When I ask for specific photos of the exact part that is offered the 'seller' usually goes away because he doesn't have the part in the first place. Had a few try to use pics off of the web but could not provide something like a detail shot of a particular location I choose at randon...just sayin....
