P15-D24

My P15 indicator has orange arrow lens.

I have one in my truck and it works great. I added a T fitting from the vacuum line for the wipers.

Looks like #7 is a Desoto, can read "soto"on the hubcap.

http://life.time.com/culture/road-trip-photos-from-us-route-30-in-1948/?hpt=hp_t3#1 Spotted a couple D24 in the essay

Link doesn't work because it has the old site address (mopar.pairserver...) Updated address is http://p15-d24.com/topic/12936-door-weatherstrip/page-2?hl=+door

To Don's point whey buy NOS when new is available from many vendors including those that support the forum.

Welcome to the community!

Looks like your already signed up and ready to post!

Inlet and Outlet should be stamped on the filter canister. Look for them as not all filters are the same.

Shouldn't need to remove the radiator to install.

When I talked to 48dodger about this topic a few weeks ago I thought I could separate sub forums under a single master forum. So readers could click on "the truck forum" and see all posts about all trucks or just drill down to their specific interests like "job rated" or "C" series trucks. (Kind of the best of both worlds) After going through the set up a bit more that isn't possible, I would have to break them out into discreet forums for each group. So I have update the header and description to better reflect the growing target markets.

Try a real tire shop that does commercial work.

Good suggestion and will add to the article.

Did you check these on the Downloads page? http://p15-d24.com/files/file/33-sisson-automatic-chokepdf/ and http://p15-d24.com/files/file/32-sisson-choke-manualpdf/

#3 is it rude of me not to respond to everyone that has input on a topic I started? Good etiquette would have you reply to the thread once your solution has been discovered and the problem is solved. Also you can tag an answer with the "Best Answer" flag when you get a correct answer. (Only the originator of the thread can set the Best Answer banner) Also a good list of questions!

After fighting with this for years I finally invested in two tools that make life good: Tube Bender: Double flare tool: Aren't cheap but you get the job done right the first time.

If your going to leave the front clip on then pull the transmission. Life will way easier.

Great seeing the next generation getting involved!

Did you have your brake drums turned? You mention in several posts you couldn't get them back on after adjusting them with the ammco tool. That means they are not centered on the drum or the drum needs to be turned. This is a long thread so where are you right now and what are the issues? You have bled it out and now the system holds firm at the same height every time when depressing the pedal? How far down does the pedal go till it stops and the brakes are fully applied?

Couple points/issues to maybe get you to a successful resolution. First, brake shoe adjustment is the main factor in pedal height, not the master cylinder push rod. To correctly adjust your shoes the brake drums must be turned and true. The shoes need to arched to the correct size to fit the drums. Last, and most critical, the shoes must be centered and proper shoe to drum clearance set with a gauge like a Ammco 1750. The factory cleareance is typically .006 (heel) to .012 (toe). These clearances can't be set by feel or guessing and are critical to both brake performance and pedal height. I remember when I first got a Ammaco 1750 and I re-adjusted my front shoes on my B1 to factory spec. Brake pedal height came up 1-1/2 inches and brake performance was outstanding. If you don't have the shoes correctly adjusted you brake performance will always suck. Second, your hydraulic system has to have 100% integrity. 99% won't get the job done. Simple test, pump your brake pedal. Does the pedal get higher or firmer? Then you have air in the system and/or a leak. After you pump it up, let it sit a few minutes then depress again. Did it go to the same height or go lower? If it went lower you have air in the system and/or a leak. If the pedal consistently returns to the same location and firmness every time your hydraulic system is good to go. If you are pressure bleeding and the pedal is not firm after 3 times around the vehicle, you probably have a leak. Remember, first get the hydraulic system to 100% (Don't worry about pedal height, worry about firm, consistent pedal), then adjust the brake shoe to drum clearance (pedal height will come up with this step) and finally the master push rod to factory spec (final detail). When properly set up the brakes on these vehicles are actually quite good but they must be serviced correctly.

The Member Map is back online! This is an updated beta version from the publisher and now uses Bing maps instead of Google maps so the interface is slightly different. It is a beta so if you see any unusual behavior please submit a support ticket here Enjoy!

Same experience as you.

One other thing. Before you start pressure bleeding you need to clean and check for leaks at every connection and the T block where the lines split. I clean each connection with denatured alcohol to remove any residual brake fluid and make sure they are dry. Then pressurize the system for five minutes, wait five minutes then do an inspection. I use a kleenex to touch each connection to look for any trace of brake fluid moisture. If you have any leaks you will not be able to succesfully bleed the system. The T block is susceptible to hairline cracks with a very slow leak. If you still have not had success in pressure bleeding in 2-3 trips around the truck start looking for a leak.

I think this is correct. If you look at the actual part numbers on the page 5-36 you will see 1 tons (and larger) use a different part number than B & C trucks. On page 5-4, Plate 5-4 the item 5-66-1 looks like one of the pipe thread to SAE 45 adapters I mentioned. ( I have seen them in brass or steel) A gasket would be correct on the pipe thread side of the connection into the wheel cylinder, but not on the SAE flare side. (In fact the brass fitting to SAE is what I have on my truck front brakes right now). Again a washer on the flare side is incorrect and will leak. You need to inspect your wheel cylinder and determine if it has female SAE flare or pipe thread fitting, then install the correct components. The flare should have an angled seat and usually the hole is smaller than the ID of the overall hole. A pipe thread will be a straight threaded hole no angled seat. Over the years I have seen both types as replacements types. Notice on Plate 5-3 for the front no "connectors" are mentioned so you really need to inspect your replacement parts to determine what is needed. Edit: in re-looking at the photo with the cylinder in the vice it looks like you have the correct brass flare fitting that screws in the wheel cylinder and mates with the SAE flare fitting. Those are pipe thread so they should self seal just by tightening correctly. (I have never had one leak on the pipe thread side, it's always the flare side) I would be careful torquing them with a hammer. ( use a torque wrench! )

5-66-1 is only used on 1 ton and larger trucks which use a banjo bolt to hold the connector in place. It is not used on B or C series trucks. See page 5-15 of the part book, note the connector is only used in the illustration for 3-4 ton trucks. I have seen two types used on the B & C series trucks: one where a SAE 45 degree fitting is machined into the wheel cylinder or a pipe thread is machined in and you screw in a brass or bronze fitting with pipe thread on one end and a female SAE 45 on the other end to accept the brake line SAE male fitting.