P15-D24

Slide them on, align and replace the key, then torque. Might put a very thin coat of grease on the taper to make removal easier next time.

By stripped you mean rounding off the corners of the "nut" section? Vice grips always worked for me.

The nut that holds the front wheel bearing in place. It's usually a castle nut for a cotter so you can set bearing preload.

Remove the nuts on the two major adjusters. Gently tap the bolts inward till the shoulder on the bolt clears the brake shoe bracket. The will pull the shoes away from the drum. No to be a smart ass but you did pull the wheel bearing adjuster nut first?

Also clearance issues with the lower crank pulley on the front cross member.

Pretty sure you have to select the image(s) you want to delete first by clicking on the check box.

Also don't forget you can use images stored on other external sites and link the URL to get them to display in your thread.

You are at 99% of your upload quota.

Please remember the reason for the limit is I'm paying for the storage. On Mac you can use Preview to resize, Paint on Windows. For displaying on the web they really don't ever need to be bigger than 100-300 kb. Or you can alway use a third party service and post the URL.

Something like this: https://www.grainger.com/product/40JZ70?gclid=Cj0KCQjw6PD3BRDPARIsAN8pHuGHmLfQxXMeLZzP-Z0GNyRXkz1zQT1bGmk0fWgdxOjDeenH-vF1NXIaAlEIEALw_wcB&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&ef_id=Cj0KCQjw6PD3BRDPARIsAN8pHuGHmLfQxXMeLZzP-Z0GNyRXkz1zQT1bGmk0fWgdxOjDeenH-vF1NXIaAlEIEALw_wcB:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!264955916558!!!g!439964433995! You want something that is not incandescent or LED, but with a neon indicator. The voltage at the plug wire will be around 20,000 volts but very low amps. (It will bite you if you are holding it but it won't kill you ?) When you turn the distributor you will see a brief flash as the coil discharges. Also a cheap neon timing light that clips inline to the plug wire will work.

Assuming you have the correct distributor parts and installed correctly: First turn it over to where you think it is on TDC for #1 (the front most cylinder) Pull the front valve cover off and visually verify both valves are closed. Then turn it a bit more and verify the exhaust valve starts to open. If correct, back it up to TDC, if not go one rotation, verify and then set up to TDC. Very important, verify all your plug wires are fully seated in the distributor, coil and plugs. If everything is at "factory spec" your distributor should be pointing to around 7:00. (If not report back) Verify the plunger in the distributor cap is fully extended and not stuck in the cap. Then reinstall and use the locking clips on the distributor. Loosen the distributor lockdown nut so you can rotate the full 10-15 degrees in both directions. Set mid position to start. Next you need a tester to verify the plug is firing. I use a cheap Neon AC tester (buck or two at Home Depot). Pull the plug wire off, insert one lead of the tester in the plug wire connector, the other lead to a solid ground (Just use an alligator clip jumper wire to ground). Now the test: Turn on the ignition, don't touch the starter. Did your ammeter slightly deflect to the left? Now turn the distributor body back and forth the full rotation allowed by the distributor lock bolt you should see a flash on the tester when the points open. If it flashes your ignition is fine. If it doesn't, start working backwards. Next try the tester at the cap where the plug wire goes in. Still no go? Try the coil wire at the cap, then at the coil. Then report back what you found and we can figure out the next correct step.

If you have the adjusters fully backed off and it still won't come off (and you are using the correct puller) then remove the two nuts holding the major adjusters. Then tap in the adjuster bolts and the shoes will come loose pulling away from the drum.

Ground wires in the harness.

https://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/brakes.html/

Email me at info@p15-d24.com. I can delete your account but leave your posts. I do agree with NickPickToo.

Yeah, they are coming out in our canyon right now also. We have had 2 king snakes in the yard in the last 2 weeks. (unfortunately one of the dogs got one before I could relocate him) Neighbors are reporting the rattlers are starting to show up also. I have humane snake sticky traps out in all the areas where we have seen them in the past. Also have been really aggressive about reducing the local rodent population.

First, the are NOT split rim wheels but rather lock ring rims. Any decent truck tire shop can service them. Stockton wheel makes a safety rim replacement, but they are pricey. The 16" 6 lug is correct rim for that truck.

Start or join in a thread that has a hint of political or religious bias (left or right, I don't care) it will be deleted. As I have said many times before their exists many, many other forums to discuss your political/religious leanings. This is not one of them. Don't like the rule, go somewhere else. This is car site first and when people start injecting their political opinions other people get angry or feel alienated. Please focus on keeping the dialog welcoming and family friendly.

The brake article tells you how to do it with a dial indicator and bearing holder. Also adding your location would be helpful.

And I would call Animal Control regarding the dog.

The Link Directory tab is your friend...

Thanks Tod

Welcome to the site!

Check the Downloads section.

You should would pull the pan and inspect the journals. If ok then get some plastigauge and and check bearing clearance. If you want to check piston ring fit you are probably going to have to pull the them. Their might be a check where you can use a feeler gauge down the bore to verify ring clearance, hopefully someone else can confirm.