joecoozie

I was thinking about suggesting using 2 gaskets. It could be a possibility. Also, be wary of tightening the bolts too much (or too tightly) because you can snap off the exhaust manifold ears on the manifold flange and then you have another issue to deal with. Just asking..... When you are attaching the pipe to the manifold is the pipe already connected to the muffler? I would suggest that you, first, connect the pipe to the manifold without it being connected to the muffler. That way you can get the pipe onto the manifold nice and straight and you will have "play" to move the pipe around to get it to sit correctly (straight) before bolting it on. Also, clean up the original pipe flange with a wire brush to get a nice flush fit

Wasn't this engine rebuilt many years ago and not run at that time but sat until now? If so, then you may have some stuck oil rings that will need run-time to unstick. Just guessing.

When you brought it back to the shop and they showed you the starter "working" on the bench, did you watch and take note how they connected the wiring to get the starter to spin? It seems like, from what you describe, the internal wiring on the solenoid may be reversed?????

I would remove the paint from the housing that you painted. Looking at the pictures you posted prior to the rebuild there is no paint there. Did you try to ground the starter remotely and then try cranking it?

Try wedging a piece of wood between the starter and the block to hold it "up". Or, wait for your helper......

Tires were/are?? stamped "BLEM" when they are not deemed "perfect" to sell for full price. That meant that there were some flaws to the tire (i.e. - crooked whitewall(s), etc....) They were sold at a discounted price because of the flaws.

Hopefully you are planning on replacing the rear (rubber) mounts because from the looks of the one in the picture you really should replace them I would also replace the front motor mount.

That's how it should be. At least on a 1948. On a 1950 car it possibly could be the same.

Or you can use this: https://www.rubbertherightway.com/flat-rubber-sheets-masticated-rubber-54099-prd1.htm?productFeedId=0&utm_source=googleBaseFeed&utm_medium=shoppingEngine&utm_campaign=Google&source=productlistings{adwords_producttargetid}&origin=&utm_term=4588811781483185&utm_content=Catch All

Not to ask a stupid question but.... Don't you have a battery hold down????

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Have you polarized the generator? I believe you just flash the BAT to GEN posts on the regulator - you should see spark(s). If I am wrong someone will correct me.

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He has a Chrysler Saratoga. Completely different.

There are chrome "buttons" that fill the radio knob holes. They have "locking tabs" on them (much like a hubcap) that when pressed into the hole lock the piece in place. I probably have one but I would need to locate it and take pictures for you.

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If your timing is set correctly the #1 plug wire (and rotor) should be at 7 o'clock (or close) on cyl #1 compression stroke

Click on the link not the download.....

It only took me 3 times to get it right......

Once more...... https://images.search.yahoo.com/search/images?p=1942+chrysler+royal+interior&fr=yfp-t&imgurl=http%3A%2F%2Fmomentcar.com%2Fimages%2Fchrysler-royal-1942-12.jpg#id=0&iurl=http%3A%2F%2Fmomentcar.com%2Fimages%2Fchrysler-royal-1942-12.jpg&action=click chrysler-royal-1942-12.jpg.crdownload

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I believe the one you show is 41-42 This is the correct one for your Royal - or like it I think the correct one has a red crown in the center of the knob.

"someone put a plumbing shutoff in it (thats some backwoods engineering I would do if Im being honest) " That shutoff valve is a factory part. I have seen original cars with that same valve. Question: Do you have a cable coming from the "TEMP" control knob on the dash? You will need that to control your new valve.

Looks like you may have dual heaters. If so you will need the "rabbit ear(s)" control valve. I had one but sold it and IF you can find one you will pay big $$$$$ The valve you have is for a single heater.