TodFitch

Please repost in classifieds.

I don't see star washers on the studs in your last image. . . Probably is not the cause of your problem but could cause issues down the road as the star washers do a much better job at keeping good electrical connectivity than standard lock washers or no washers at all.

Yikes! At least cover that connection with insulating electrical tape, if that touched something you will have some serious issues.

I guess Prius hybrid cars must be ”special construction” as neither my wife’s 2001 (acquired in late 2000) nor my 2004 (acquired in late 2003) have ever been “smogged”. DMV just wants money for the registration sticker.

Please repost in the classified area. . .

I don't see a Tim on this thread, so I will assume the question is directed at me. 350 RPM on the distributor would be 700 RPM at the crank.

The slowly part is probably due to the natural dampening built into the dash unit, takes a little time for the thermostatic elements to heat up and cool down. So at a constant 2000 RPM with the transmission in neutral will cause the issue? If true then at least you have a test condition to verify the fix once the problem is found. If the instrument panel has been refurbished there is a chance that not all the wires go replaced properly. Though I am having a problem coming up with a wire swap that would cause that issue. As Tim pointed out, the symptom is like one of the wires either being open or grounded. He suggested a slight shift in the body but if it happens when still that seems less likely. Also, if it has a brand new harness it is unlikely that a wire's insulation would be worn through already. Certainly a puzzler.

In the '36-42 factory service manual the table with specs is under the ignition system section on page 144 Distributor: IGS-4109-1 Ignition timing: T.D.C. Breaker point gap: 0.020" Breaker point dwell angle: 38° Breaker point spring tension: 17 to 20 oz. Max. Allowable drive shaft bushing wear: 0.008" Condenser capacity: 0.25 to 0.28 mfd. Automatic mechanical advance curve in degrees of distributor advance at distributor RPM: 0° @ 350 RPM 3° @ 400 RPM 6° @ 950 RPM 9° @ 1500 RPM 11° @ 1850 RPM Vacuum advance curve in degrees of distributor advance with inches of manifold vacuum: 2° @ 6 3/4" 11° @ 17" Note the mechanical advance is in reference to distributor RPM which is the same as camshaft and thus 1/2 crankshaft RPM.

Chrysler Historical Services 12501 Chrysler Freeway CIMS 410-11-21 Detroit, MI 48288 USA http://www.chryslergroupllc.com/company/Heritage/Pages/Build-Records.aspx

Is the ammeter showing anything odd? I am wondering if the ground connection between the body, the frame and the engine is bad which could lead to ground current from the generator (attached to motor) going through whatever path it can find (fuel gauge system).

Guess I could but it is not a big deal for me. Current status: The 2001 has been back from the dealer and seems to be fine. They found no issues or damage from the low coolant but have flushed and refilled with their preferred mix. No charge. Got a email sent about 6 PM last night that the 2004 repairs are complete. I'll pick it up today. If the weather is decent (supposed to start raining again late morning) I think I'll walk over if not I'll have my wife drop me off using the 2001. I've been very impressed with the status updates from the body shop and insurance company. I'm not expecting problems but will take a pretty close look at things before taking possession.

Not sure about the exhaust valves burning if not exhaust pipe is mounted… I've heard about that but have no personal experience one way or the other. If water is coming out of the grease fitting then the seal in the pump is bad and washing out the grease from the bushings/bearings. You can go a while by just keep putting grease in. Many decades ago I had that happen to me just after starting a 2000 mile trip. Made it the whole way by simply adding grease to the pump at every fuel stop. But you should plan on pulling that pump and either repair or replace it.

Typically they started engine numbers at 1001 so I would interpret it as the 155,702nd engine build for P11 models.

Your serial number from the door jamb plate indicates: Serial Number 15038062 Found in range 15000101 to 15135030 Serial 37962 of 134930 Year 1941 Make Plymouth Model Name DeLuxe Model Code P11 Plant Detroit Engine 6 cylinder 201.3 cu.in. L-head Wheelbase 117 inches See http://www.ply33.com/Misc/vin for that and some explanations about the various numbers you might find. The serial number is what Chrysler tracked the car by and is what you need to send to Chrysler Historical for copies of the "build card". The build card will show the original engine number and original body number for the car. The original engine number is probably stamped on the driver side frame rail but the location seems to vary from year to year so I can't say where you might find it on a '41. On my '33 it is between the running board supports. I understand on the post war cars it was around the kick up for the rear axle. In any case it may be only lightly stamped and hard to find under all the rust and crud that builds up over the decades.

Maybe not a formal holiday, but certainly an event to celebrate. But it would be nice if it were a few degrees cooler: The snow level is higher than the places I normally go to ski so all they are getting is rain right now.

First, a digression from an off topic post: You guys post too much! Took me seeming forever to go through all the posts since last I was able to visit the forums here. Anyway, the week before Thanksgiving a lady ran a red light and the damage to my 2004 was enough that I was worried that her insurance company would declare it totaled and just give me a check for the Blue Book. Fortunately the repair estimate came in just low enough that they are repairing the car and it should be done next week. They offered a rental car but I haven't taken them up on it because we have two other cars. One down two to go. (Another digression: The lady has Allied/Nationwide insurance and they seem to be pretty good to deal with. Good enough that I am considering switching to them after this is all over. Does anyone have experience with them?) For Thanksgiving went to visit out of state relatives and decided to drive my wife's low mileage 2001. But it had been a while since it had been serviced so took it to the dealer (I don't work on the new cars as they are not my hobby). Among other things they drained, flush and refilled the hybrid cooling system. Coming back, in the desert about 100 miles from anywhere and several hundred miles from any Toyota dealer, the hybrid system fault light came one. Car still seemed to be running okay, so got it to the first place that could reasonably be called a town and checked under the hood. The coolant reservoir for the hybrid system was empty. Not just at the low mark but empty. Bought some 50/50 premixed coolant at the gas station and filled it and continued on. Last night from the hotel I cruised the Internet and found that there are a host of issues that could cause the warning light to come on but as long as it continues to act normally, charging the main traction batteries, etc. as indicated on the dash displays, it should be safe to drive. Also found out that if the fault goes away then the lights will reset after four engine starts. Fault/warning lights still on this morning so took it to the nearest dealer along our route, still about 375 miles from home. Service advisor came on over and asked what they could do for us and I started the engine to show the problem and the warning lights were off. Counted back and sure enough that was the fifth engine start since I filled the reservoir. Decided to continue home, unload the car and then take it to the local dealer that did the work and have them verify that there are no leaks and that their failure to properly fill and/or bleed the cooling system did not cause any damage. Dropped the car at the dealer about 4:30 this afternoon. They are doing all that I want for free and offered a loaner car since they will need the car over night. Declined the loaner as we still have a running car in stable. Two down one to go. And then there is one: Our only serviceable car is the 81 year old Plymouth and I have no doubts about its ability to meet our transportation needs until the new(er) cars get back from their respective shops. Good thing I took the wiper motor out a few weeks back and lubricated it as it looks like we are due for some much needed rain.

And for those who don't want to tear everything apart far enough to rebush after getting everything back together, you can open the slot in the floorboard a little. At least you can on a '33 Plymouth where the holes for the brake and clutch pedals are actually just slots on the removable floorboard.

No need to delete your posts on your new manifold in the car section. . . Just open a new classified ad with the relevant information and that thread can remain. Or, if GTK desires, it might be removed by a moderator after you've got the ad information up. On a side note, I look forward to your posts as you have a wealth of knowledge about these engines.

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=johnny+cash+cadillac+one+piece+at+a+time

You forgot Jack Benny in his Maxwell (predecessor to the low end Chrysler which was predecessor to Plymouth). At least it is supposed to be a Maxwell but I am not up on that era car to be sure that is what they used in the film.

On that era car, the body number which is different from the engine number or serial number is located on the firewall tag. On many cars of that era the body number is of the following format: Prefix: Engineering code for vehicle Number: Seems like the sequence number for the body style at the particular body plant Suffix: A code indicating body type. My two door sedan has a "TDS" suffix and I've heard of business coupes with "TPC" which I think would be "two passenger coupe". I've heard of a few cars that ended up being registered by that number but generally cars were registered with either the engine number (very common) or serial number (less common). Chrysler tracked the cars by serial number and that is what you need for getting information about it like the build card from Chrysler Historical, so the serial number is probably most like a modern VIN in its usage.

Or if you want to do it the original factory way, pull a vacuum on it while soaking in light oil to pull the air out and, once the vacuum is removed, pull the oil in. After that it should be lubricated for life.

Been a while since I looked under the fellow's car but I recall the '37 Plymouth has the sector shaft coming out through the side of the frame.

Neat turn signal find there and it should look great. But I’d call it a “period accessory” or “vintage accessory” rather than “NOS” (new old stock) which used to mean unused factory original parts. Those are different than “NORS” (new old replacement stock) which used to mean unused aftermarket parts equivalent to the factory parts from the time of manufacture. Seems like languages change and lots of people are calling old unused non-factory accessories “NOS”. But I am getting to be an old curmudgeon and want words and terms to mean what they meant when I was much younger.

A bit off topic, but you never know when your record of no scrapes will end: This last Tuesday a lady ran a red light and collided with me in an intersection. Good news is that nobody was hurt and that it was so clearly her fault that her insurance is repairing my daily driver. (Other good news is this gives me a great excuse to drive the '33 on around town errands as it is my other car.) Prior to Tuesday I had a lot longer than a 10 year stretch with no need for a seat belt (I wear seat belts and have since my parents installed them in the family car back in 1963). Maybe I didn't need them on Tuesday, but I am glad I had them and was wearing them.