TodFitch

Classified section on this web site is the place to post want ads. . .

Sounds like that will be good for a long while. If you secure the wire near where it was rubbing so that it doesn't move and rub more the it should last indefinitely.

Wikipedia says end of May, 1947 which would be over half way through the 1947 model year.

It could make a difference based on how much hot water you use, whether you have natural gas to heat it with or electricity. It might be cheaper over the life of the water heater to get a more efficient one even if the out of pocket cost is higher. You might want to pencil it out as to which way puts more cash in your pocket (or your old vehicle) in the long run.

Similar to what I did except I used printer's ink. The advantage of printer's ink is that you can use press wash to remove it without affecting the base paint layer. So it has some advantages if you are worried about making mistakes and don't want to strip down to bare metal to start over if you goof up. The big disadvantage is it is designed to be applied to a surface like paper which will absorb it a little and on a painted steel surface it dries very slowly and is easily marred until the top clear coat is applied.

I am not now nor have I ever been an attorney. Here is a photo of our last pet, she was very sweet.

It is alleged that a now missing cat had something to do with the fire that burned pflaming's truck. My guess is the implication is that dogs are less inclined to be arsonists.

I've heard of people putting '37 DeSoto overdrive transmissions into '33 Plymouths. Apparently it fits okay even though '33 and '33 (and maybe '35) have a funky setup where the shift tower bolts to the frame instead of the transmission. You might want to look for a '30s Mopar overdrive for your '36 Dodge.

Hmmm. Drove the '33 to Tucson the other year, about 900 miles each way and some miscellaneous driving while in Arizona brought the trip total up to about 2,000. Came back the 900 miles averaging 60 MPH on the freeway with the stock (but rebuilt 25,000 miles ago) 190 cu.in. engine with a 3speed and original 4.375 rear end. I guess we have a difference of opinion how long the engine can safely stay at 3,000 or so RPM. I do agree about the brakes though: They really determines how fast you should go.

Moderators can't move a thread to the parts section, all we can do is delete the offending post and send a PM to the originator letting them know what happened and why. WIth respect to this post, my interpretation is that darenfroe is asking for interchange information, not specifically for parts. So his post does not need to be in the parts area.

You don't list your possible vendor and my experience has been that some vendors have higher print quality than others. That said, all the reprints I've seen were made by copying an original manual and while they are legible and you can usually make out details in the photos, the originals are higher quality. In some cases I have both an original and a reprint: The original stays safely in my house for me to read with clean hands and the reprint is used while working on the car and gets pretty soiled.

Don't know if this is a factor, but light bulbs have variable resistance. When cold (off) they have a very low resistance and as the heat up the resistance rises. The rated wattage is when the bulb is hot, the current draw will be higher when they are just turned on. If you have a fast blow fuse it might need to be a higher rating than if you have a slow blow fuse.

Yeah, rooted it and installed CyanogenMod. To get the Google Mobile Services (GMS) colloquially called "Google Apps" or "gapps" you need to actually separately install them afterward which I did not do. I am using F-Droid for many of my apps and stuff from the Micro-G or "no-gapps" project for other things like network location (some of the Micro-G stuff is available through F-Droid too). Since I run my own servers it was possible for me to setup shared calendaring, email, etc. using various open source bits and pieces (typically called "sync adapters") along with the built-in Android Open Source Project (ASOP) stuff.

Okay, thread moved. The Mid-Peninsula Old Time Auto Club has held this meet, which happens to be the largest of its type in the area, at different venues over the years. It has only been at the Seaport Blvd location for maybe the last 4 or 5 years. Before that it was at Cañada College. And before that at Foothill College. As it is a large event they need a place with lots of parking and that has been the problem, not insurance which the need and have. The two college locations were fine until they out grew the Foothill location and Cañada built on what was parking areas. I think they are also cost constrained so that may play into it as well.

I like ixquick a bit better than Duck Duck Go. I removed all Google software from my computer and, a bit harder to do, from my Android phone but suspect that is a bit beyond the abilities and desires of most people. About like suggesting they avoid using a cable or satellite provider for their TV. What was the contact point you found for lodging a complaint with Google?

That is my understanding.

The issue as I understand it is the starter mount on the bell housing: The '35 and up have the starter rotated down and out a little to accommodate the slightly wider block with the full length water jacket. The two solutions I've heard of are: 1) Grind off the side of the starter. 2) Mill the bell housing to move the starter mounting point. For a tad more power but using the same block, you could put the 201 crank and rods in. Basically that turns a '33 190 cu. in. engine into a '34 201 cu. in. engine. All the bearings, pistons, etc. are the same between the 190 and the 201.

Adjustment procedure for the hand brake band is in the service manual. . .

Unfortunately that is a cut-off low that retrograded into Central California. Which means two things: 1. It is not very wet so rain/snow accumulations will be small. 2. It is hitting Southern California and the southern Sierra while it is clear and sunny in the north-central and northern parts of the state. Since most of the water for all the state, including Los Angeles, comes from the north this storm is not doing much for the water supply. It does, however, help the local vegetation in the areas where it is raining. So it is not a bad thing, just not as good for the drought as it could be.

From some photos I've seen of front engined motor bus maintenance facilities in the 1920s it seems that having the power plant on a removable subframe was fairly common. I'll see if I can find some of the photos.

Since you aren't really asking for money, I'm leaving this. And I hope any respondents use PM to contact you on it. But there is a services section in the classified area that probably ought to be used for this type of thing.

Service manual for the car, or even the owners manual should have that information in it. And you should have those. I use StaLube hypoid gear oil I picked up in the local hardware store. I go for the heavy weight as my non-synchronized transmission shifts better with that. There are no yellow metal parts in either my transmission or rear end, so no issues there. As for your car, I'd also use the heavy weight hypoid oil in the rear end as I think you actually have a hypoid rear end and I'm pretty sure you don't have yellow metal parts (Chrysler was pretty good about using ball or roller bearings instead of bushings in that type of thing). You have a synchromesh transmission and I don't know if your synchros have yellow metal parts, I understand that some do. On the other hand the container of hypoid gear oil I have says it is safe for yellow metal. If you want to be cautious, use a non-hypoid gear oil for that.

For an unreality show it might make sense as they often show crimes but until the court rules on it everything is "alleged" and if later found innocent (or at least "not guilty") the show could be liable for damages. But for a normal everyday situation where no crime is alleged I don't see the problem.

Wow! Glad I am not there, hope you come through it okay.

Yes, the middle one is for spreading piston rings. Got one just like that in my tool box. Left is a piston ring compressor for getting the pistons into the cylinder.