TodFitch

I’ve been reading that its the lowest rain fall for many areas since they started recording in this area (around 1850) so that would be the worst in more like 165 years. No rain in San Francisco in February, the first time that has been recorded. For the year we are at about 2% of “normal”. There is some hope for a storm or two at the beginning of March if the longer range forecasts pan out. We need it.

The one on the right that rotates back and forth is a valve lapping/grinding tool. In the old days valves had a slot or a couple of detents that the tool would fit into. Valves In those days (teens, 20s into maybe the early 30s) valve grinding/seating was done with the engine in the car and needed to be done about as often as an ignition tune up in the 40s or 50s. Pretty nearly any mechanic from the 1940s or earlier would have that type of tool in their box.

Interesting. I was under the impression that the light output was part of the specification in addition to things like the bulb size and shape and the base. Guess they figured they could cheat on something that was not immediately obvious by physical shape.

I think the felt was to keep the dirt down so the seal on the hub had less stuff to damage it. Again, I just bought some felt from an industrial supply, cleaned up the sheet metal and riveted it all back together. Not a big job compared to the other things you've been doing.

Those small tubular brass rivets are available in most decent hardware stores in the US and they are pretty easy to set. When I did mine, I found a local industrial felt and seal company and bought a piece of, if I recall correctly, 1/4" thick felt. Cutting new seals from sheet stock and riveting them in is a pretty simple job compared to everything else you've done so far.

In 1933 the standard models had a 4.11 rear end while the deluxe had a 4.375. Same engine, deluxe models perhaps slightly heavier. By gearing the deluxe lower they probably got more acceleration off the line which would sell. Top end probably wasn't a huge concern as either could well exceed the maximum speed limit of the day. Back in the late 1950s and into at least the mid-1960s swapping out the stock 3.whatever rear end for a 4.11 was a pretty common thing to do to get a better 0 to 60 time. Slightly amusing to me that the reverse swap is not the "in thing".

Actually, no. Worked with some Brits and I mentioned that and they told me I was crazy. Turns out that the British pint, like their gallon is larger than the US version. Read once that there were a bunch of different gallon measures and apparently what we use was the old "wine gallon" while in the early 1800's England created the Imperial gallon very close to the older ale gallon.

You aren't the only one. I know a contractor in the US who does commercial building interiors who equipped his employees with metric only measuring tapes and require their use. It reduced the number of mistakes enough to reduce his overall costs and time enough to give him a competitive advantage. I've been known to use the metric side of my measuring tape from time to time too though I have to admit I don't have the same "gut feel" for sizes expressed in meters or centimeters as I do for feet and inches. For backcountry I've become schizophrenic: I prefer kilometers for horizontal measures as that fits nicely with the UTM grid on the topo maps but I an unable to deal with elevation in meters and must have that in feet.

That serial number would be for a 1949 C45-2 Chrysler Windsor 6 cylinder, not a 1948 if my look up is correct. I guess it won't matter as long as the part(s) off of it will work for you.

My dream tool would be a lift. But for that I'd need a different garage and that is out of the question unless I move.

I hope not, that would make this year even drier that last and we need the water. There have been a couple of years in the past with "Miracle March" precipitation, maybe we will get lucky this year.

In general, pre-WW2 Plymouth six cylinder cars are fairly easy to get mechanical parts for. They are actually very similar to early post war cars and trucks and many of those later parts are identical. For example, for my 1933 PD I get most the replacement parts for the wear and tear items (tune up, gaskets, etc.) from my local better auto supply. Some parts are tougher like brake drums for my car are one year only. The issue is things like body and trim parts which are usually one year only and not reproduced and you may spend years looking for a usable replacement for a missing or non-repairable part.

They sure seemed to go through lots of variations on their signage. Are any of these close? Tossed in the Chrysler Plymouth one because I purchased one of those back in the 1970s for, I think, $40 and this image is of one on eBay that the seller wants $3600 for. I guess that makes it one of my better investments.

As you like...

Or read the vehicle code at the link posted over the weekend.

If the cooling system is in shape you should not need a 6 bladed fan. Probably only need/want that if you are doing a lot of idling in the desert in summer. Sure looks like some spell checkers love to change "decel" to "decal". One or two (depending on year, make, etc.) wire mesh air filters on the crankcase ventilation: One in the oil filler cap, the second one possibly in the road draft tube on the rear of the engine under the exhaust manifold. Take them off, wash in kerosene and re-oil with heavy oil. Road draft tube needs to extend down into the air flow under the car to work properly.

Sorry, I gave you the link to the seat belt requirements section within the equipment section. If you want to find other things in the motor vehicle code, start at the table of contents: http://www.leginfo.ca.gov/.html/veh_table_of_contents.html

California Motor Vehicle code is available online. Under equipment you can find the seat belt requirements: http://www.leginfo.ca.gov/cgi-bin/displaycode?section=veh&group=27001-28000&file=27302-27317

The Model T Ford had a planetary gear set in the steering wheel hub. Might have been other cars that way too.

Actually, I did not move the post but simply copied it. So the original is still there. And I've added a link on that post to this thread. So while I haven't actually PM'd the original poster, I think he should be able to find the responses here.

Well, this is a first: Reports about posts on this thread to the moderator by all people involved in the shouting. My take on the specific posts: 1) It is alright to post the contact information about a vendor that you think might be of use to a person based on their posts. But if you are a vendor, it is not okay to post that you have the part/parts desired. For that use the PM facility and/or the classifieds. 2) It is alright to have opinions on things automotive and to post them. 3) It is also alright to ignore posts by people you find annoying. That is probably the best thing you can do if you feel someone is a "know it all" with more opinions than their experience warrants. 4) It is also better to ignore posts by people who have a communication style that annoys you than to attempt to "correct" their behavior. 5) If you notice that your posting style seems to draw negative reactions, you might want to carefully re-read your text for how it might be received before clicking on the "post" button. I'm going to leave the reported posts in place as none of them quite crosses my line, but please calm it down a little.

Over at Over at http://p15-d24.com/topic/37750-3-passenger-business-coupes/?p=396075this was posted: Starting a new thread on this to make it more visible as it might be lost in the middle of that other thread.

Does the illustration for parts type code 12-31-2 labeled "Engine Dust Pan" look anything like what you are talking about?

Up doing some work at a ski hut at 8300' elevation today and it was warm enough to be in shirt sleeves with no jacket, probably the low 60s. Send some of your winter to us. This year is turning out warmer and drier that last year's record breaking drought.

OP was stated intention to buy them from an unknown source and wanted information/opinions about them. . . If the unknown source was attempting to sell them on this forum then the listing would need to be in the classified area.