TodFitch

Were the shoes arced to match the drums before you installed them? If not then you may have very little contact area which will reduce braking effectiveness and will cause rapid wear on the part of the shoe that is contacting resulting in the need for frequent adjustment.

A Mopar L-6 engine should be able to run at 2850 RPM all day, everyday. You just aren't used to the sound and feel of that in this post 1973 gas crisis age of lower engine RPMs. For me the various sounds and feels of the car running along with the engine near 3000 RPM bring back childhood memories of family road trips.

I was under the impression that the 1935 PJ models still used the fabric insert. . . So any metal insert would be custom and need some fabrication skills. Maybe the roof supports from a mini van and the top skin simply a piece of sheet metal from your local supply.

Top speed on the expressway is dependent on condition of car. Assuming good condition, it should cruise at 65 MPH. Top speed is a bit of a guess on my part as you have a more streamlined body, more horsepower and taller axle ratio than my '33 which I've had up to 70 MPH. Get yourself a service manual. It will have the procedure for checking out the electrical system including the generator and regulator. 6v systems typically need twice the current as 12v systems for any given item and are more sensitive to voltage drop so having good wires, connections and contacts is a must. A bad connection that causes a 1v drop on 12v (8% drop in voltage) will cause a 2v drop on a 6v system (33% drop in voltage)

Can't say for sure for something that new but for the early 1930s I would expect that to mean either the 148th or possibly the 1148th body built of the "TPC" type depending on if they started at number 1001 (as seems usual) or not. And I would expect "TPC" to mean two passenger coupe.

I think the translation for UK English "paraffin" to American English is "kerosene". Might make a difference here as what we call paraffin is a wax.

Not an expert with 50's Mopar but I understand that the sending units should be 10 ohms to 78 ohms.

If you are going for cheap, you can buy straight radiator hose in 3' lengths and cut to size as needed as long as you have the elbow. I've never had a problem with leaks at the elbow in my car. I've got a copper elbow from the plumbing department of a hardware store in mine. Been there for nearly 40 years now. Painted the outside black so it didn't look like a shiny piece of copper in the wrong place. If anyone has ever noticed that it is not authentic they've never mentioned it to me.

"getting soft"? That sounds more like air in the lines. If it were just a shoe adjustment issue I would expect low but firm pedal.

Like Merle said, I use a large diameter drift rather than the smaller one you used. Regarding not having them expanded enough: On my non-bypass style water pump there can be considerable pressure in the block at higher engine RPMs before the thermostat opens. Like when you stay in a hotel by a freeway on-ramp and then go charging on to the freeway with the engine still cold. With the pressurized block a poorly seated core/welch/casting/freeze plug can pop out. Ask me how I know.

You might be having a voltage issue too. The unit works by heating up elements in the dash unit based on current passing through the two circuits to the sending unit. With a higher voltage you will be running more current through it and heating it up more. My guess is that it will work, for a while. Until it is damaged by too much heat. You should consider putting a voltage reducer on the input to it.

Assuming P15 per your signature: There should be four wires attached to the three studs on the back of the fuel gauge: 1. A blue wire providing power from the ignition switch 2. A brown wire attached to the same stud to provide power to the starter switch. 3. A Black and yellow wire from the sending unit attached to a stud that looks like it might be labeled "2" 4. A blue wire from the sending unit attached to a stud that looks like it might be labeled "1". Both wires from the sending unit go through a connector and the color call out is on the side of the connector toward the sending unit. I am assuming the colors are the same from the connector to the gauge unit. There is a table in the service manual that shows what will happen if one or the the other or both wires to the sending unit are grounded or open. One entry says that if it reads full when full, 3/4 when half full and 1/2 when empty then wire #1 is open.

Seems to be that you might be disappointed if you get the same result of using 3 quarts in 20 miles. . .

Dunno, "downtown" Lockeford is what, maybe 4 miles from "downtown" Clements. Or maybe 3.5 miles from Tim’s. That’s awful far for one of those old Dodge trucks to go.

I use the mapping/gps functions on my smart phone as you are your TomTom or Garmin. And I was doing something like that with the power, basically reversed polarity and isolated ground, for powering my smart phone using USB power. However it is easy to get careless and have the end of the USB cable with its exposed ground shield touch things in the car. And most things in the car are metal bonded to the car ground. Result is damage to something. So now I am powering my lighter/accessory plug with a voltage inverter. No worries on having the loose end of the USB cable touch anything. And as a bonus, it cleans up the power over a very wide input voltage range so I don't have to worry about low or high voltage damaging my smart phone.

Phone numbers are pretty easy to fake nowadays. . . With an appropriately compliant Voice Over IP (VoIP) provider you can set any caller ID you want on a call. Not sure how many old car parts scammers are up on that, but I certainly get more than a few calls per month where the caller ID number seems to have been faked.

Hmmm. I was going to say gmail kept that type of information but just checked the headers on some email I received from a gmail account holder and found that it came from a 10.x.x.x IP address which is a local non-routable address (i.e. someone on a local area network that can't be traced). So it is not possible for me to say exactly where that mail came from. However it was signed by Google implying that they were satisfied that the sender was appropriately logged into their system. So they know who it was. Might need a court order to reveal that information which won't do you much good but maybe a complaint to Google/gmail might be accepted and lodged against the account.

Your test light flashes when you crank your engine but not when you attempt to statically time the ignition? Keep this in mind: The test light is being driven by the points opening and closing. So to statically time the engine: 1. With the engine off and at "top dead center", connect the 6v test light between ground and the low tension wire to the distributor. If the points are closed the low resistance path with be through them and your 6v test light will be off. If the points are open the path to ground from the coil will be through the 6v light and it will be on. 2. You need to rotate the distributor body to the position where the light just turns on (points open). 3. Lock the distributor in place. It is that easy.

Basically building them like the small scale manufacturers in the US did back in the 1920s.

The numbers were the only thing I could read on the advertising sign on the back of the bus I followed for a little ways today. The rest was in Chinese. From the photo and form of the ad I assume it is for a Chinese language TV station but I could be wrong.

I don’t recall seeing any Pacific Intermountain Express trucks after maybe the late 1960s. Seems like they were the big trucking company between California and Colorado and points in between back in the 30s, 40s and 50s.

I can suggest your read your own post where you quote Merle saying "The rebuild kits from Antique Auto Parts Cellar use a pin with retaining clips. Easy to rebuild and no problems since."

So is this off topic enough to move to the off topic area? Does look like it pertains to 30's L-6 engined Plymouths. . .

Cam sensor on my older 190 flathead pick up is in about the center of the cam. Works off of a gear like machined part of the cam. Sensor itself sticks out of the engine on the driver's side and is a combination unit with most of the rest of the ignition system components. I think the call it a “distributor”. You might want to check to see if it is in the same place on your later 218 and 230 engines.

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