hkestes41

This is what I did for my indicators Since I have changed to the dual intake and carbs I no longer need my throttle or choke cables. I removed the cables and used the bezels for my indicators. The holes in the bezels are 5mm diameter, so I just went to Radio Shack and purchased 2 5mm diameter red LED's. The LED's came with lead-wires and a resistor already attached. All I had to do was a very light sand with some emory paper to give them a very tight press fit into the bezels, attach the wires to my turn signal switch wiring and "Factory" signal indicators.

I have Oldaddy's kit on mine and I am running the stock 48 15 inch wheels. Very satisfied with the performance of the brakes and the fit of the kit.

My dad had one of the old Willys wagons that he put a 289 in to take hunting in Colorado. My uncle who bought it from him when he turned 16 in about 1970. Had my dad paint it kind of a hunters green metal flake then he put a multy colored striped shag carpet in it with bean bag chairs in the back. Topped it off with a green metal flake steering wheel and chrome wheels. Real shaggin wagon or so he thought. Good luck with your Pete, I'm sure you and your boys will take a different path than my uncle did and have fun doing it. Hopefully I will now get to see the Plymouth in person since it will only be about 30 miles down the road.

Even with an OD 65 - 75 mpg is going to be tough.

Bob, I will be there on Thursday can't wait, was a good time last year expect the same this year.

I have added an OD from a 53 Suburban to my 48 Club Coupe and have to say that in my opinion it (or another OD solution ) is most likely the single best modification that can be made to these cars. My 48 is my daily driver and with the OD I have no issues running with traffic in and around Dallas including on the tollway where the 60 MPH speed limit is for the most part only a suggestion. I wired mine just as is shown on the factory diagram with the exception of the wire to the distributor to cut the ignition during kickdown. Drilled out a pre-existing hole larger on the lower lip of the left side of the dash and inserted the stock kickdown switch plunger through the hole. When I want to kickdown out of OD just let off the gas and push the plunger with my finger and drop back into 3rd gear direct. Other than the wiring part of things was a direct bolt in. Also my car is converted to 12V, running the 6V govenor and solenoid with absolutely no issues.

Don, Maybe you need to look at one of these from Speedway http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Stainless-Brake-Lines-with-90-Degree-End,1994.html $13.99 and looks like it would be a quick and easy solution without worries with a kinked line of possible stress fracture of a very tight bend somewhere down the road. Stainless Brake Lines with 90 Degree End Or this fitting from Bear's Performance at $9.95

I have installed one as well while leaving the old hydraulic one in place, but don't have any pictures. The nice thing about it is you can adjust it to come on when you want them to. As Don did with his, mine is adjusted so that the lights come on nearly immediately when the pedal moves. Don't have to push the pedal enough to build pressure in the hydraulic switch before the lights come on. May be less than a second difference but at 60 mph you travel 88 feet per second. So half a second is 44 feet less distance traveled for that distracted soccer mom with the SUV full of kids and groceries.

Just thought I would put this out there for any of you guys on the West Coast looking for running gear. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=410701

Try this site. http://catalog.osborn-reproduction.com/index.php

Jim, Check out this site that was posted on the HAMB. It is a step by step of the install of a 318 into a 50 Dodge. http://shadowmtkustomz.blogspot.com/

This story was on our local news tonight. This guy has some major well water issues. http://www.wfaa.com/news/local/Flaming-faucets-alarm-Montague-County-family-97994344.html Funny that in ANWAR Alaska they can't drill within 300 miles of a Caribou, but here in Texas you can drill within 300 feet of someones back door.

I love the white interior but would not have guts enough to do it in my car. I know that I would never put in the time and effort it would take to keep it clean in a near daily driver.

Week before last when I told my wife that I was going to go to the Ft Worth swap meet on Saturday she said "maybe I'll go with you". Then 5 minutes later it was "you know what I'm not going I don't know what I was thinking. Its going to be hot and you are just going to wander around looking at a bunch of junk for your clunker". CLUNKER??? Good thing for her she is the mother of my children.

Yes it fits in the pickle shape. We had ours mounted to an old Army Surpluss Dodge Weapons Carrier we had converted to fight brushfires by placing a large tank in the back with the pump on the front bumper in front of the grille. The bumper was extended with diamond plate filler and a rail so that you could ride the front bumper with the hose while the truck was driven through the fire area. The Indian Packs were mounted high on the flat top of the sides of the truck with the curved portion of the holder facing out away from the truck. This allowed you to back up to the truck, put your arms through the straps like putting on a backpack and walk away with the Indian Pack on your back. Here is a picture of the "inside" or the side that goes against your back. I would think that this would be the side you would want facing away from the bed of your truck. Oh and for a little bling, the older Indian Packs were often made of brass and some of stainless like the one below, which could be polished if you wanted to.

Acid Trip gone REAL BAD. That or he was trying out for the new late night cable show Customizers Gone Wild. Where they travel around the country finding young customizers who have had a few too many drinks and talk them into raising their tops. Also there is a guy over on the HAMB building a speedster out of an old Seagrave powered firetruck. He has a couple of videos in the thread of the engine running http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=468936&highlight=giant+speedster

Ed, The picture I posted is the "outside" of the Indian Pack. The side that fits against your back has the concave curve to it to fit against your back.

Ed, You are looking for an "Indian Pack". They still make these new by the D. B. Smith Co. http://thefountainheadgroup.com/indian-fire-pumps/steel/90g.php I used these many times several years ago in my late teens and early 20's when I was a volunteer fireman in the small town in MO where I grew up. It was a family tradition started by my grandfather who was a founding member and fire chief of the Carl Junction Volunteer Fire Dept. Not a lot of fun throwing roughly 50 pounds on your back and then heading off up and down hills through the brush in your firefighting gear. Walking with all this and your rubber boots was not easy. If you happened to fall you were kind of like a turtle on its back. Only way to get up was to take off the pack, get up and then try to get it back on again.

Had to run a couple of errands today so I took the camera with me to get a couple of clips so you could here it at more than an idle. Both of these are with both windows down and the cowl vent open since it is almost 100 today, so there is some road/wind noise and my clutch pedal is rubbing on the floorboard so that is what the noise is when I shift. First on is from a stop light through the shift into OD, the second is from about 40 to getting on the highway at a shown 60 which according to the GPS is actually 68. Last sorry for the shaky video, was holding the camera, steering, and shifting.

Fred, I just went and looked and it is a little further back than I remembered. The H pipe, cross over, balance tube what ever you want to call it is about half way between the cross member and the parking brake band.

Reg, The tone doesn't change too much as the rpm's increase but the volume does increase a little but not bad. I think it really hits a sweet spot around 55 - 60 mph (with OD). No rapping when I let off and use engine braking either. I think the cross over pipe has a lot to do with it.

I have the Langdon's headers on my engine and 2.25 inch pipes running pretty close to what you show in your photo. There is a cross over pipe in the system just aft of the crossmember. The mufflers used are just off the shelf 14 inch no name turbo style mufflers and I think mine sounds pretty good.

If you like the old dirt modified here are a couple of threads from the HAMB with tons of pictures. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=174989&highlight=48+plymouth http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=289913&highlight=48+plymouth

I would agree with Robert to a point. I actually enjoy hot rods (does not include the unsafe rat rods), customs, and originals. Where I would agree with Robert is in not cutting up nice original cars to build a rod or custom. My original intention when looking for my 48 coupe was to do an old school rod with a poly engine. When I found the car I thought it was in too good of shape to start cutting on. So I just added some speed parts to the flathead. However, most of the rods you see were not done from nice originals or restored cars. Most were built from fairly derelect castoffs. While it is true that many of them were in decent enough shape they could have been restored, that does not often fit within an owners desire or bank account. Hot rodding gets the car back on the road and saves another one from the crusher or returing to the earth.

Here is one my dad raced back in the late 60's. Before he started driving for Don Grant (chevy engines) he had always ran his own cars and every one was Mopar powered. One car in particular that I remember him having was a mid 20's Dodge coupe with the turtle deck trunk and running a 413. Below the windows was painted black and the top was gold. Had a white circle on the door with a Red #41.