hkestes41

I care. Damn Canucks My family goes to a lot of hockey games. Locally we have everythig from NAHL Junior A 16-20 year olds (2004-2005-2006 National Champs and playoffs every one of their 13 years in the league), CHL Minor Pro (first year in the league setting 2nd in the Div), to the Dallas Stars. I even write game recaps for our NAHL teams Booster Club website as well as for American Junior Hockey online magazine from time to time. Will admit though that in Texas I am definately in the minority around here football is king.

Wow. Couple feet of hose, mason jar, assorted grommets and screws, just need a bracket, that tube for through the windshield and the pump in my garage for a complete system. Think I will through my pump on E-Bay for $150, would be a steal for somebody. About another $25-$30 at the hardware store and they would have a complete system and still have roughly $300 to take the wife to dinner and a movie.

Unfortunately, I can't remove my floors as a previous owner welded the removable section in. Like to slap him upside the head for that one. The replacement box has the full inner column and outer tube. So may try to get the whole thing out at once.

Canada picked up Gold for the Women. The US will bring the Gold back for the men! This is the one game of the year when I hope Brendan Morrow does absolutely nothing worthwhile.

I have questions for those of you that have replaced your P15 steering box/column. My current box is very lose and I have a replacement that I bought from Nighthawk months ago and am now ready to do the swap. As I understand it the box and column need to come out as a unit from under the car. 1) How high do I have to get the front of the car off the ground to be able to get the column out? Would a set of portable ramps be enough? 2) Is it best to remove just the inner column or to remove the inner column and outer tube together as a unit? 3) Any tips or things you learned from doing your swap that I should be aware of before starting? Thanks, Kirk

Rockwood, Here are some carpet techs from the HAMB that may be of use to you. Measuring/Cutting/Laying Carpet Tech: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=105191 Carpet Binding and Laying Pad Tech: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/group.php?do=discuss&group=&discussionid=2401 Floor Mat Tech: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/group.php?do=discuss&group=&discussionid=2426

I am a regional sales manager for Hirose Electric USA. It is the US branch of a Japanese connector manufacturer. Cover a region which included Southern NV, WY, CO, UT, AZ, NM, TX, OK, AR, LA, MS, AL, Western TN, all Latin (Central / South) America, and I have Global responsibility for Jabil a major electronics contract manufacturer. So, like Don, I spend a fair amount of time on the road.

You can buy the Offy from Langdon's http://www.stoveboltengineco.com/acartpro/category.asp?catcode=21 new for $245.

I have been having an issue the past week or so when I drive at highway speeds. After running for about 15 miles at 65 mph or so, the car starts to lose power and begins to kind of anti-surge for lack of a better term. In other words there is an intermittent loss of power, kind of like surging but the opposite. If I slow down and drive on the surface streets the problem seems to go away and I can drive on to my destination. I thought I may have a slightly "clogged" gas cap causing a vacumn to pull on the tank at the higher speeds. So, last night I pulled the cap off completely and drove home without it. Again about 15 miles and it starts anti-surging. The rubber portion of the fuel line along the front crossmember is new so I don't think it is collapsing but I am not positive. Don't know how I would check for that since the problem goes away when I slow down. Now I am wondering if it is maybe the coil, (I am running the Langdon HEI and coil). If it is the coil should I expect the problem at any speed or would it be more prevalent at higher speeds? Any other suggestions?

I have done some business with him, purchased an OD Solenoid. He was very helpful and spent about 20-30 minutes going through the solenoids he had to make sure I had what I needed. Then he told me go home put it on and if it doesn't work bring it back and we will get you another one. Not many places will let you bring back electrical parts.

Have been wondering if a Toyota Prius compressor could be used so that it could be hidden to keep the engine bay looking more original and also to lessen drag on the engine. I do not understand electrical systems enough to know exactly what would be involved to insure enough current to run the compressor, but it could have some real possibilities. Anyone have any thoughts?

Barabas I'm running the Offy and Carter Webbers from Langdon's on my 0.060 over 218. Everything else internally is stock. Mine runs just fine, may be a tad on the rich side but not enough for me to have done anything about it.

Rich and Pete, I wish you the best in your searches. My wife was just informed that she will likely be without a job in the next few weeks. She works as an office manager for a small church which just found out that they owe $1.7 million to a receivership in an SEC investigation. Seems one of the church members who had made $1.7 million in donations to the church over the past 2 years had come by the money by fraud. The church had used the money to pay off their mortgage and all bills. Now they are faced with having to mortgage their building again and cut their operating budget by 50% to repay the money they owe. Looks like she will be a causualty.

Snowpocalypse South You guys on the east coast have nothing on us folks here in Texas We have 3 inches in Dallas and still snowing. Luckly it was warm enough yesterday and the temperature has remained high enough today that the snow is not sticking to the streets. However they are covered with slush and they are calling for temps in the 20's tonight so it will be a mess tomorrow morning. I know it is nothing compared to what the east coast and upper midwest are going through, but folks here just don't do well in the snow. Half of them think that just because their All Wheel Drive Megamobile SUV can accelerate to the speed limit they can stop like normal too. The others half are driving like white knuckled blue hairs doing 20 on the turnpike. Makes for an interesting commute.

Barabbas, I posted this under a different thread. Might be something to check out. "I talked to the owner of this Desoto while at the HAMB Drags. During our conversation the subject of windshield and rear window rubber seals came up. He passed along a tip for an alternative product to use for this application. He said he used the window seal from a John Deere Combine cab. https://jdparts.deere.com/partsmkt/d...TrimGuide5.pdf He said it was slightly smaller than the stock rubber seal but that he just added some silicone seal to the channel prior to install and in 2 years has had zero leaks. It was evening in the hotel parking lot when I was looking at the rubber so I did not get a real good look at it but from what I saw it looked good and did not look significantly smaller than stock. Here is the kicker, he said a roll of the rubber is like $20 and will do the windshield and rear window. I have not used this just going on this guys recommendation. Just thought I would pass it along in case someone is at the point of replacing their seals. If you do give this a shot let us all know how it turns out."

If you installed them the way you have them in your photo you have them correctly installed. I had them on my enigne until the rubber boots dried out and started curling. You can see them in this video of one of my fist start ups.

Joe, If I'm not mistaken that is the only difference, just the small colored "tracers" funning through the woven covering. Brillmans has a lot of interesting products.

Fred, When I did my 800+ mile trip to the HAMB drags last year all I did was check all the fluid levels and tire air pressures. Carried a small toolbox in the trunk with a set of hand tools, ratchet/sockets, and screw drivers. Also had a box with a couple quarts of oil, a gallon of water, a flashlight, some shop rags, a package of baby wipes (to clean dirt/oil off my hands) a beach towel to lay on if needed, and a roll of duct tape (if you can't fix it duct it ). Only had one minor problem on the trip. I was nunning about 65 mph on I-44 about an hour from Joplin when the I heard a clunk and then a squeeling noise from under the hood. Luckily I was only about 1/2 mile from an exit. Opened the hood and saw that the bolt for the upper altenator bracket had snapped at the end where it connected to the engine. Got a screwdriver out of the toolbox and wedged it and the end of the bracket between the water pump/block with the handle against the altenator and drove the rest of the way to my parents house. Next morning welded the bracket with a new connection point. That is the beauty of these cars older technology. While it may have more miles on it and be closer to failure, it is also much more simple to fix on the side of the road. I will be making the trip again this summer without an hesitation.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/24796741@N05/sets/72157604247242338/show/with/2346008881/ This guy has some mad skills. Includes some old Mopars

Little too much boost from the blower combined with too big a shot of Nitrous would be my guess.

About 3 weeks ago, I pulled my 48 into the garage to put an Olddaddy brake kit on. Car war running great. Finally got the brakes done after having to remove the internal residual valve in the master and replace with 10/2 pound externals. Also dropped my double flairing tool during the process and broke it. Needless to say between the residual valves, flairing tool, cold garage and my travel schedule this took way longer than it should have. Took the car out to test the brakes and had a terrible miss. It was running really rough. Came back popped the hood and my #1 and #3 plugs were so loose you could wiggle them back and forth in the holes. A couple of the others were bairly finger tight. These plugs have been in for about 18 months and have several thousand miles on them. Cleaned the plugs tightened them back up and it is running fine again. The car spent the 3 weeks in the garage and I know nobody else messed with it during that time so how did I go from running great to having loose plugs and missing like crazy? Anyone else ever have plugs come loose all of a sudden? I'm baffled.

Guys, Don't know anything about this place or the cars. Found this on the HAMB and thought I would throw it up here in case anyone is interested. Looke like they have several old Mopars available at reasonable prices. http://restorablecars.com/

My car is my daily driver and I have had no problems with the fuel pump even in 100+ degree Texas summers. I do not have a heat shield on the pump either. Really the headers are not as close as they appear in the pictures. Here is a picture taken from the rear of the engine that shows the clearance a bit better. While you can't see the pump you can get an idea that there is a lot more clearance than it looks like from side shots.

I have been running my OD on a 12 volt system with the original 6 volt solenoid for over a year with no problems and it is nearly a daily driver. Before I installed it I did open up the solenoid clean everything up and face the contact points. The wiring harness for the OD is fairly simple so if it does not come with the harness is not that big a deal. As for the lockout cable, you can look for an original or you can use a hood release cable from the parts store. I just leave my cable in so that OD is available all the time. For the kickdown, I used the stock switch mounted through the lower lip of the dash below the starter button. When I want to kickdown out of OD just reach below the dash and push the button. I think that is the way Pete originally did his before adding the button to the shift knob.

Yes, I'm using olddaddy's kit. Have everything done except installing the residual valves and bleeding the system. Unfortunately it has been colder than a well diggers arse and I just don't want to be laying on that concrete garage floor. Supposed to warm up some this week so hopefully I will have it done soon.