hkestes41

This one was at a local show (Manifolds on Main) last summer.

I think Don is on to something there. Really all we need is a very friendly dog sitting in our lap and the window rolled down and we can forget all this talk of A/C.

I would second the shroud comment. I built one for my car and saw temps drop pretty good amount. Don't recall what the numbers were but they were noticable. There is a post in this thread that explains how I made my shroud. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=20917&highlight=shroud

I used a Rear Main Rope Seal from these guys abut a year ago with no leaks since. The seal they sell is graphite impregnated and is supposed to seal better than the standard rope seal. http://www.bestgasket.com/ Here is a quote from Street Rodder on these seals. "In response, BESTgasket introduced GraphTite rope rear main seals, made from braided PTFE (aka Teflon) fibers with graphite. The sealing results are remarkable and the installation is simple with easy trimming. The rope material is highly conformable, filling in any seal housing inconsistencies. Its naturally slick surface places less drag on the crankshaft, allowing for detection of other "hang-ups" during the engine build". and link to full article on installing in a Y-Block Ford. http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/0810sr_bestgasket_rope_seals_ford_y_block/index.html

I know its not a P15, but I bought a flathead and OD from a guy in the Denver area who was putting a 5.7 from a Dodge PU in his 53 Suburban. Looked like it fit as well as any other V8 swap I have seen. He was running rack and pinion steering so had some extra room from that.

Best I can figure is that I put about 7.5K - 8k on mine in the past 12 months. My Odometer does not work so don't know for sure. Right at 30 mile round trip to work, times 3 days a week to account for the days traveling, plus 860 round trip to the HAMB Drags, 600 round trip to the Lone Star Round Up, plus another 25 miles a week misc running gets me to the 7.5K mark.

Bob, I resemble that remark. Spent many a night in Galena or Columbus before I grew up. I do enjoy a Newcastle or Shiner on occassion but I probably consumed more of that cheap 3.2 Kansas beer in a month back then than I do of the good stuff in a year now.

In the Reference section of this site there is a color chart for Plymouth showing two-tone color combinations. I have never seen a stock two-tone that I am aware of but the color chart seem to suggest that the option was available.

I have the tail lights on my 48 but not the 3rd light. Yet. Have had people follow me then tell me that the rapid flash before they stay on "Really gets your attention". Just what it is supposed to do.

Thanks for the responses just saved me $20

Anyone have a current code? Please?

You can narrow it down to a managable size by using the filters to search for what you need. For instance if you need an 8 pin connector use that filter and it immediately cuts that 4,822 down to 74. You could also look at connectors other than the automotive connectors.

I work for a Japanese connector manufacturer and I would highly recommend one of our catalog distributors Mouser Electronics for connectors and associated products. Here is a link to the interconnect portion of their website http://www.mouser.com/Interconnects/_/N-5g3y/ They sell just about any style connector you could want and stock the majority of what they sell in a 432,00 sq ft facility. Shipments of in stock product are made the same day if you place your order by 8pm CST, and they will sell onezy-twozy quantities. OK, sorry for the commercial.

Rock, I used the home made lizard skin on my floors and inside the doors and behind the side panels in the back, then covered it with the peel and seal from Home Depot. Only one piece of the pee and seal came off even in the Texas summer. I don't think I would put it on my roof though. Setting out in the direct sun the roof will get pretty hot and I would be concerned with it coming loose. I have had absolutely no issue with smell from the peel and seal. Several guys on the HAMB have said they used lobuc's product and have been very happy with it. When it comes time to do my headliner I think I will paint the roof with the home made lizard skin and then add lobuc's insulaiton before the new headliner goes in. Just my $0.02 worth.

Here are a couple photoshops of my car adding skirts to the first and a subtle chop on the second. Personally I like the chop but don't have the skills to do it myself or the cash to pay someone else to do it so it will stay stock height.

Fireball, Must admit I didn't think you would be able to top the flat orange but that seafoam looks great. Keep plugging away at it and you will have it running fine in no time.

I was lucky enough to grab a pair of old Fenton 1 3/4 inch tall blocks for the narrow springs on EBay for $20. The U-Bolts were not long enough but picked some up at an offroad shop. I also took my rear springs apart cleaned/painted. Removed one leaf and put some spring liner from Speedway between the leaves. Replaced the shackle bushings and silencer blocks. Now sets better and is much more quiet.

I remember reading somewhere that for drag racing you should consider a 0.1 second drop in ET for every 100 pounds in weight reduction.

Glad I didn't have to write the check to cover that job.

Check these guys out they do a blown Hudson flathead 6 and also convert old carbs to throttle bodies. http://www.uncommonengineering.com/ Probably a hair on the spendy side but cool stuff none the less.

OK, here is the deal. I have a two parter, if you are not a painter and don't want to read about what I did please jump to the last paragraph and give me your opinion on that part. 1) Presently I did not have the money, time or money to replace my rockers and dog leg areas under the tail lights, so I cleaned them up as best I could. Loaded the inside of the rockers and both sides of the dog legs with rust converter. Screwed some expanded metal into the holes in the rockers, covered them with fiberglass and then painted the car with Rustoleum. I know, not the route I really wanted to follow either but it is 100 times better than letting it continue to deteriorate. Will all be replaced eventually and I only have right at $60 in materials. I have always had decent results painting in the past, but this was the first paint job ever with Rustoleum or a gravity feed HVLP gun. Could not get the paint to lay down to save my life. I adjusted air pressure and feed control on the gun, thined the paint all the way from 40% to 70% nothing. I have more orange peel that Sunkist. The paint can be smoothed out with a lot of color sanding and buffing (already did a quick spot on the fender to verify) but I'm not sure if I want to do all that or just D/A and paint again with my old Binks syphon cup gun. Any advice from those of you who use HVLP's on a fairly regular basis? Last thing that has me leaning toward a repaint is the color that it turned out. Looking for a dark red I mixed two qts of gloss Emergency Red and one qt of gloss Black and here is how it turned out. 2) I'm looking for HONEST OPINIONS from the group on the color not going to hurt my feelings one way or the other. My daughter likes it (says it is red), wife hates it (says it is brown), I'm so-so (not sure what color it is). Please let me know what you think, my option would be to go back Black.

I think it was a much more subdued response than the vast majority of us would have had, especially considering if the other guy has the cash to build a big block powered steel 32 roadster he should have the cash to spend on a neutral safety switch. Then again just because you have the cash to do it doesn't mean you have the smarts to do it.

It was an old funeral coach and he obviously had no mufflers on it and I don't think it was baffled at all either. On Saturday this coupe was parked about 4 spaces from me. A guy with a real steal bodied 32 roadster was parked across the isle got in it to go to lunch hit the starter and had no neutral safety switch on his transmission. You can guess what happened next. The roadster was in gear jumped about 15 feet across the isle and climbed right up the front of the coupe before he could get it stopped. Luckily nobody was standing in front of the roadster. Knocked the headlight off the roadster and bent up his radiator shell and hood side. Destroyed the glass radiator shell, radiator and bent the passenger side frame horn on the coupe. Guy with the coupe was actually pretty calm about the whole thing. Just said "well this is why we have insurance."

Just rolled into home from the Round Up, close to 600 miles for the weekend. Only saw one other P15 (a four door sedan with a belly button under the hood ) , in fact there were not a lot of Mopars at all. However there were a lot of Mopar powered cars in attendance. Here is a link to my photo album from the weekend. http://tornadowarning.smugmug.com/Cars/Lonestar-Round-up-2010/11782427_dzHRb#832124299_QHGAP Just as an FYI for anyone interested, in the swap meet area there was a guy with some mopar flathead intakes. Joes Speed Shop Ponca City, OK 580-268-3704 http://www.joesspeedshop.com/ What he had was; Edmunds intake for the long block Chrysler/Desoto looked to be in decent shape for $500 D&S intake with carbs for the Plymouth/Dodge short blocks for $300 that was also in good shape. I have never seen or heard of D&S before, but it was shaped a lot like the Offenhauser dual intakes without the fins and a large raised D&S between the carbs.

Something you might consider is keeping the flathead and doing something like mine. Or Pete's. That way you get the best of both worlds. You will draw attention among the sea of V8's when surronded by hotrods, and also allows you to unbolt the hop up parts and put the stock parts back on if you ever want to put it back original.