hkestes41

Bob, A quick and easy help if there is possible blockage in the fuel line somewhere is to pull the fuel line from the inlet side of the fuel pump and blow low pressure air back through the line into the tank. If you remove the gas cap before doing so you should be able to hear it bubbling in the tank. If the in-tank filter gets clogged with silt this will clear it for a while. Install a cheap inline filter before the pump and keep an eye on it, it will catch the dislodged silt before it gets to the pump. Had a problem something like yours and finally dropped the tank and cleaned it out good. Went through the above procedure 8 or 9 times and changed the inline filter about 4 times over a several month period until all the silt was cleared out.

I had bias ply on my 48 when I first bought the car and never had much of a problem with them other than one instance. Yes the did wander a bit or follow the seam in the concrete but as long as you were paying attention it was not a big deal except to passengers who did not understand bias ply. The one time that I did have a whoa moment I was in the middle of a right hand curve in the right lane with a new BMW 7 series next to me on the left when we hit a patch that the road crew had ground the concrete for about 50 yards to do a future repair. Thought I was about to buy me a slightly used BMW for a second or two, but managed to stay off of it. He noticed too and signaled that he thought my Plymouth was number 1.

Howard, Mine went through a period of difficulty going into OD and then once in OD would jump out of OD all on its own. Always startled me when it would jump out as the revs shot up and it felt like someone had thrown out the anchor. I replaced my solenoid thinking this was the problem which did not fix the problem. So I totally rewired the system and have had no problems with it since. So hopefully your new harness will do the trick.

I was raised around cars. My dad owned a body shop and did a lot of custom work including my mom's chopped/channeled shoe box Ford. He also built and raced the old dirt modified coupes/sedans and built ran a 41 Willys Gasser for a few years. No matter what he built to race everything was Mopar powered. So, I guess you can say it is in my blood. Mowed yards when I was a kid and when I was 14 I plunked down my entire "life savings" for a 48 Plymouth business coupe. Drove it all the way through my Junior year of HS with the flathead until I spun a bearing. Then bought my Grandfathers 68 Plymouth wagon, pulled the 383/727 and shoved it in the 48 following a very stout .060 over, 10:1 compression rebuild. Used the old Direct Connection catalog that had recipies for parts that worked well together. Then I got the Muscle Car bug, bought a 73 318 Cuda. Yanked the 383 out of the 48 put it in the Cuda and had one of the fastest street cars around Joplin Mo. Traded the Cuda for a 33 Plymouth coupe with another 383. Before I could the coupe completed, my wife and I started a family and cars were way down on the list. Fast forward to a couple years ago, I'm driving a 2000 Camary (yawn) when my youngest turned 16. I gave her the Camary and bought my current 48 Plymouth club coupe which is now my daily driver, and I am a happy man.

Fred, I think he was asking that once the insulation is glued to the roof if then material could be glued to the insulation to form the headliner. Kind of like they do with the newer cars rather than using the bows to hold the headliner as it was done originally with our cars.

Bob, I have done some business with Auntique Auto. Went to his place when I needed a solenoid for my OD. He pulled out two boxes full of solenoids and spent about 30-45 minutes with me going through each of them to make sure I was getting a part that worked with my OD. Solenoid was $75 and I was told that if I went home and installed it and there was a problem to bring it back and I would get a full refund or could go through the boxes to find another no questions asked. There were parts everywhere and while I was there his employees answered 4 or 5 phone calls and asked him if they had a particular part. His response would go something like this "yeah we have one of those it is in building 2 third row about half way down on the second shelf." Was unbelievable he is like a walking computer. I can't remember half the time where I put my keys let alone thousands of parts.

I have the Langdon's headers on my 48 and have never had a problem in Dallas. Made the trip home from the HAMB drags in August and it was 104 degrees when I was about 15 miles from home. Made several stops on that trip to "Cool off" started right up every time. I do have 12 volts and dual carbs.

Found this list on the HAMB 5 on 4-1/2 (114.3 mm) AMC Gremlin, Hornet, Pacer, Javelin, Matator, AMX AMC - most models (exc. Jeep) '40-'89 Chrysler/DeSoto - all full size RWD cars (exc. Imperial) '37-'89 Datsun/Nissan - 1600-2000 '65-'73 - 300ZX, 200SX V6 (some) to '89 Dodge van Dodge 1/2 ton PU Dodge - all full size cars & P.U.'s '37-'89 - Dart, Demon, Swinger '73-'80 Ford 1/2 ton van Ford Granada, Monarch Ford - All full size cars '49-'72; '79-'85 - Fairlane '62-'79 - T-Bird '55-'71; '77-'79 - Mustang (5-bolt) '65-'73 - Maverick 5-bolt all - Mustang SVO '85-'86 - Ranchero '68-'84 - Aerostar, Probe, Bronco II/Ranger to '89 Hudson - all '48-'56 Lincoln - all '70-'72; '80-'89 Mazda - RX7 Turbo, 626, 929, MX6 '86-'89 Mercury - all full size cars '52-'54; '61-'72; '79-'85 - Cougar '67-'79 Mopar '73-up "A" body Plymouth - all full size cars '37-'89 - Barracuda '70-'74 - Duster, Valiant, Volare '73-'80 Pontiac - Tempest, LeMans '61-'63 Studebaker - all '51-'66 Toyota Crown, Hilux PU Toyota - 2WD P.U. '69-'89 - Supra Turbo '86-'89 Volvo 122, 1800 There is also this link which gives some info on wheel dia/width and center hole dia http://www.roadkillcustoms.com/hot-rods-rat-rods/Wheel-Bolt-Pattern-Cross-Reference-Database.asp

Greg, Actually the HEI does operate at a higher voltage than a standard points ignition. The points ignition uses the resistor to reduce the voltage while the HEI does not. That is why the plug gap in a points ignition system is in the 30 to 35 thousands while an HEI with the higher voltage is able to jump across a 65 thousands or so gap. See the into I posted above from the Autozone Car Care Encyclopedia. Below are links to further references to the higher voltages of HEI from various sources. http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/67498_hei_coils_modules/index.html http://www.familycar.com/Classroom/ignition.htm

Maybe that is why she has such a huge collection.

I don't know about MI but in MO the working red light would never pass muster. I was a volunteer fireman for several years in the small town where we lived before moving to Texas. We all had the magnetic "Starsky and Hutch" style of lights you put on your roof or dash when heading to a fire and by law we had to use blue or amber lights. Red lights were only for official government (City, Municipal, State, Federal etc) emergency vehicles. Sirens were no problem but a red light was a big no-no.

The Langdon's Mini-HEI is all S-10 V6 components so parts are readily available at any parts store. There are far fewer parts to wear in the electronic system and there is no need to adjust the points as the block wears on the cam or as the contact surfaces wear. The HEI also produces a hotter spark for more efficient cleaner burning of the lower octane fuels of today. From an AutoZone Car Care Encyclopedia

There are several who run the Mini-HEI from Langdon's Stovebolts. I have htis setup and am perfectly happy with it and the performance. http://stoveboltengineco.com/index.php/catalog/?page_id=89#ecwid:category=361515&mode=product&product=1222043

You should check out Craigslist. I bought a 2.5 Ton lift and 1000 pound stand as a pair for $125. Neither had seen much use before I purchased them. I have a "new" 230 on the stand as of tonight.

FA here you go.

Here is a thread from the HAMB with several guys praising the beads. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=486036&highlight=balance+beads

For those with the rope seal, I would suggest you try seals from these guys. http://bestgasket.com/fanfare.asp I heard some good reports on their rope seals so I installed one myself and have had no more leaks from the rearmain for going on a year now. Now I just need to use their gaskets to stop the rest of the leaks.

Through the second link that Bob posted above the price of a 230 here in N. Texas is $3599.00 purchased through a registered Jasper dealer/installer.

Here is a link to a posting with 3 videos on the Chrysler Airflow from the Jalopy Journal (home of the HAMB). The first video is on safety where they intentionally roll the Airflow then push it off a cliff and drive away in both instances. The second is an endurance record set on the salt traveling 2000 miles in 24 hours. The last is an economy run from LA to New York http://www.jalopyjournal.com/?p=9831

If you take off the front sheet metal it is a piece of cake installing both the engine and trans at the same time. Removing the sheet metal is not that big a deal either and gives you all the room you will need.

I purchased mine from a guy rodding a 53 Suburban with a HEMI / Automatic from a Dodge Ram PU. Brought it home, swapped it with the stock 48 three speed, wired it up and drove it. I even run the 6V Solenoid and Govenor on my 12V system. Had a couple of minor issues with the wiring but that was my fault. Other than correcting the wiring issue and making sure it was full of lubricant I have done nothing to the OD transmission. The OD has been in the car for about 2 years and is a daily driver. Throw it in there and give it a shot. Not that difficult a swap, so if it needs rebuilding you could swap it, test it, and have your standard 3 speed back in the car in one solid day.

Brillman http://www.brillman.com/store/ I have never purchased form them but they have a lot of cool stuff in the catalog.

What carbs are you planning to use? Langdon's sells linkage for the Offy manifold using the Holley/Webbers or Carter/Webbers.

I just purchased a 230 from a 57 model and have some questions. 1) Looking at the front motor mount for the 57 I will need to change to the sadle mount for my 48. Will the sadle mount work with the 57 waterpump? 2) Will have to change the bellhousing to have the rear motor mounts, should the 48 bellhousing bolt to the back of the 57 block? 3) Will the input shaft on my 53 model OD transmission fit with the 57 crank? Last this thing gives me the dual groove pulleys and brackets for the A/C that I have had on the shelf for aobut 2 years.

Just got back from the HAMB Drags last night. It was a great time and had the pleasure of meeting Bob's lovely wife. The only issues were the heat, drove home the 360 miles on Sunday in 100+ degree weather, in fact it was 106 when I got home. The other issue was about 2 1/2 hours into the trip home I heard a loud squeel coming from the left front. Luckily I was in Pryor, OK at the time and found a closed gas station to pull under the canopy for shade. Pulled the front left wheel and found a disentegrated outer front wheel bearing. Walked a couple of blocks to the Autozone and since I had switched to Charlie's disc brake kit, I was able to get a new Volare bearing. About an hour or so later I was back on the road. Anyway here is a link to my photos from the weekend including several Mopars. http://tornadowarning.smugmug.com/Cars/HAMB-Drags-2010/13464041_PJFxr#980237751_AyYUe