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Jims50chrysler

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  • Gender
    Male
  • My Project Cars
    1950 Chrysler Windsor

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  • Location
    Gardner Creek New Brunswick
  • Interests
    Cars and Bikes

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  1. Thanks Dale. It looks good but I have to revisit the design it did not quite fit...the clean lines are because I cut it o the waterjet at work. Jim
  2. Well at least I am moving forward today, I did get the bracket cut out of 3/8" steel today and a friend said he would turn the hubs for me tonight. I expect the rest will go as smooth as it is supposed to. Jim
  3. Hi Dale, I hope you don't mind if I add something here, I just wanted to let you and others know. I mocked up my explorer brakes with used parts from the wrecking yard and all went well, I picked up new rotors, Calipers and Pads and proceded to do the install and wouldn't you know it the rotors inside diameter where the hub fits in is slightly smaller on the new rotors so the hub will not fit inside without a small amount of material removal on the hub. I have contacted my parts guy because the rotors that fit are made by century and the rotors that dont fit are made by certified hopefully he can get me the ones made by century but really I should have the material removed from the hubs so any brand explorer rotor will fit. The good news is the wrecking yard charged me $15.00 for all the parts and I am getting $70.00 back for the cores. I will post the solution when it presents itself. Jim
  4. Thank you very much for starting this thread, I was at the scrap yard today and picked up explorer calipers and rotors to do my 50 Chrysler I have the rotors currently on the car and tomorrow will start designing the bracket as it will be diffrent than yours. Do you remember the part # for the longer flex lines your parts guy found for you? Jim
  5. Good work, I lowered mine the same way 3" blocks and cut 1 coil it will be awhile before I will know how it will ride....how do you like it so far?
  6. Thanks 47 droptop I will check the wiring again next chance I get in case there was a misprint on the instruction sheet, I do agree a dead short is a big streach but it seems like having continuity on those 3 poles can't be right either. the car is far from ready to start right now I am just building the wire harness. I will let you know what I find. Jim
  7. Hi all. I am hoping to figure out if this brain box is no good I am converting a 318 over to this style ignition for my 1950 Chrysler that I am building. I ran all the wires and fortunatly before I applied any power to it I checked for continuity and found with the ignition swich in the run position I had what appeared to be a dead short after some digging it appears to me that this brain box is no good if I check continuity from pins 1,2and 4 to the box itself it indicates that I have continuity....that does not seem right to me, I was hoping that someone might have a box laying around to do a similar check, if the results are different then to me it would confirm that the box is bad. thanks in advance. Jim
  8. I got one here out of a 50 chrysler Windsor got new brake shoes and pinion seal but farther than 100 miles. Jim
  9. Hi everybody: There have been alot of changes in my life over the last year but I have latley been back to working on my 50 (car should have been done 2 times over by now). I have changed direction on the driveline and decided to run a later model 318 with the 904 transmission, I bought a low mile 5th ave doner car and removed everything that I will need. The flathead and fluid drive is out and sold and the 318 with the 904 is sitting in the hole just about where I want it. I know that there are a few of you guys on here that have done this swap and I was wondering what you used for exhaust manifolds? the ideal driver side manifold for me if the engine is where it should be is a center dump manifold found on the trucks but for the passenger side a rear dump manifold would be ideal, is there such a thing? the 5th ave manifold hits the frame on the passenger side. It could be that my engine is not back far enough and I might have to rework the firewall but I was hoping for some imput from the someone who has been here before I start cutting. I know there are threads on this subject somewhere on here but a search did not reveal anything. Thanks Jim
  10. No Johnny I have not got to that yet....way bigger fish to fry first:)
  11. I plan on using a dry clutch......I am supprised at how hard it is for me to find a T5, not that I am in a rush or anything, the fluid drive seems to work good and I have alot of otherthings to do before I start into a job like that.Worst thing is I had a T5 that I kept from my 87 S10 but I sold it to the guy I bought the Chrysler from:eek:....if I had only found this forum before I sold it to him. Jim
  12. In my pursuit of a T5 for my Chrysler I stumbled across this and thought it should be shared. http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Borg-Warner-T5-ID-Tags.htm Jim
  13. I was at home depot today and they don't carry it anymore I will have to get to a local hardware store and see if they can help. I did sandblast all the rust spots that I could see at the time (discovered a few spots later) it won't be too bad to clean up the rest of the rust but I do have to rebuild the bottom of my drivers door. Jim
  14. OK the small spring now has a home but the large spring baffels me as the exploded view only shows the one larger spring in the whole carb I guess it could have been left over from my parts carb. stranger things have happened. thanks to everyone on this forum for your help I am now driving the car in and out of the shop a couple times a week with the first rebuilt carb to sweep up... nothing inspires me more to work on the car more than a clean shop. Jim
  15. wow sounds labour intensive....where do I buy phosphoric acid? a hardware store? Jim
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