Scruffy49

Not that bad, my 318/727 with 3.55 gears only gets 9-11. But it is in a Sweptline, put a chimney brick on a cinder block, set it on a rusted up old roller skate (the kind that takes a key) to get an idea of the aerodynamics or lack there of. Same engine in the 49 would probably get 14-18mpg. The 218 running with bad compression got 12mpg, it is in dire need of a re-ring (or a 230 swap) and better gearing. 3 speed and 4.78s really hold it back.

Well, my favorites are the green 1968 Utiline and the yellow A100 trucks. Some interesting cars in the mix as well, but the trucks do it for me. And right or not, I'd drive the red Suburban mod-rod.

Be careful, because the Frams tend to be a tad shorter than the older filters. I ran a C3 in my truck for awhile, and had it propped up on a ring of wood to match the Texaco T11 insert I took out... sold the canister, mount, lines and a new 1011 or 1010 insert (no sock version) that I made sure fit to another forum member, haven't heard back on it so I assume it works as it did on my truck. Cost at Tractor Supply for a Fram is within a couple dollars of the NAPA/Wix version. The inserts from Fram aren't as bad as their spin on filters, yet.

Jeff, hit the truck stop for some bulb cover sleeves. Reusable when the bulb burns out. They make them in green, blue, red, amber and purple. To fit 1157/1156 and micro bulbs.

If he has the 4.78 rear gears, she's wound up tight enough to pop by 50, and will at 60. That's why my 49 truck has a 48 P15 sedan engine... Easier and cheaper to swap in a Dakota, Ranger or Cherokee rear axle. 3.55 or similar is about as high as you want to go. 4 u-bolts, 2 spring mounts and maybe a u-joint, and it's done. Your factory rims will still work, but may require a thin spacer to get the right offset if you use a Ranger axle.

Too bad you are so far away. My truck came with me from WA to TN a couple years ago, I'd have given you the factory rear end. I'm swapping to a modern rear axle assembly. It is still under the truck, haven't had time/money/ambition to pull my donor axle and do the swap. Maybe Kevin down in Vancouver has a spare he'd let go reasonably...

Put a battery to it and see if she'll start. I got my 230 to crank over that way before deep sixing the starter, generator, transmission, bell housing, flywheel and clutch parts. All I wanted was the core engine... the rest is truck stuff. For $50, if she'll run, you did just fine. And I agree, the car stuff looks funny compared to the big bulky truck parts and the truck stomp starters.

Somebody's unfinished rod project from a long time ago based on the cobble job roof panel and mismatched doors. Have him check the framing around the rear window cut out, most manufacturers back then has some identifying stampings/castings in the metal that the wooden body framing was nailed to. There should also be a body plate somewhere in the cowl or on the firewall, probably rotten zinc by this point in time. Doors. cowl and hood scream 28 Studebaker, body belt line looks like 28 Packard, but the rear side windows are wrong for either make.

When Kmart bought Sears, the tool lines went overseas. It may say Made in USA, but the tooling change is only pennies per item... I've hauled many an import load shipping container of "electronic items" that the outer box showed fans of some kind, labelled Made in China, that when opened said Harley Davidson, Made in USA... ACE Hardware's green ladders labelled Made in USA come in from China with the labels already on them. Trust nothing from the big box stores, they are all "pulling a Walmart" on you... American made tools? Cornwall... And, if your L6 will run okay, keep it, otherwise, find a Mirada or same series similar Mopar from the 70s and 80s, order Tex Smith's book "How to Build Hot Rod Trucks", and follow the first tech story, putting a Mirada front clip, power train, rear axle, seats, column, etc in a Pilot House. Shows just how tricky it is... But, you'll have everything needed (and then some) to swap the running gear into your car.

You're going to have to move if you keep bringing toys home. Nice snag on the wagon .

Block casting date? I know the spare engine for my truck has a 1955 casting date (230), the current engine has a 1948 casting date (218). Both came out of Plymouths...

1915 Henderson motorcycle engine and a 1920 HD Sport Twin engine. Very odd machines. Unfortunately don't have any pics, they went to other homes 20 years ago. Not by my choice either, stolen out of my shop.

I may still have chuck box plans around here... if not, here you go...http://www.chuckbox.org/plan-your-camp-kitchen Scouting is a dirty word these days Jeff... which is too bad, most of the time I found it worthwhile. Was kind of bored after making Eagle at 15 though.

Mine came with this one... Have seen the same exact type in a few other trucks over the years, mostly out in WA. I use a 5-15 inch lift floorjack that shipped in a plastic storage bin. Fits under the axles of my B1B just fine, right now the truck is on a stand and a 12 ton air over hydraulic bottle jack.

Inherited mine, my grandfather traded a Hudson Terraplane in on it brand new in 49 when he needed a truck. I inherited a 92 Ranger parts junker when my brother in law died in 2011. Between the two of them, I'm making one truck. I was going to use the bought as a parts donor 69 D100 as an engine, transmission and rear axle donor, but, the 69 has turned out to be too useful as purchased to justify cutting it up.

Swap the entire transmission. That looks like a 48/49 bent stick, should be a direct bolt in. Any chance you get to go from a fragile column shifter to a nearly bomb proof top loader is money well spent.

Check my sig block, PH and Swepty "pasture pals"...

Definitely keeping the cowl vent, always chuckle at the owners who let the shop "shave" it during the build process. Points are better, all you need is a dime and a matchbook to reset them in a pinch. HEI? Pretty sure it stands for "bad engineering" with fragile connections and a horrible, almost impossible to set attachment method of cap to dizzy. Could just be the V6 on our C10 though...

I'm still trying to find the factory option oil bath air filter for my Sweptline. They work just fine, and the "what the heck is that???" factor is priceless... Car show folks who've never seen a stock engine... Want a good debate? Alternator versus generator -or- 6v versus 12v...I was going to go whole hog 12v with alternator and power everything... Probably going to stay 6v and just replace the cracked door glass and add a screen to the cowl vent. There's another good argument, keep the cowl vent as issued, add a screen to keep out critters, or weld the sucker up solid...

Ranger through end of model year 1998. In 99 or 2000 the lug bolt pattern changed.

Check the Fram C3 and C4 inserts against your current insert. I had a C3 in my Purolator canister that got sent to another forum member, and a NAPA Gold 2011 or 2010 was a perfect fit.

Looks like you had a full trim 68-70 Adventurer to tow it around with...

Hilarious article... I need to put it on one of the motorcycle forums and one of the gun forums and see what kind of ripples it causes... You're a bad influence on me there Don... although, it does sound suspiciously like the screwy ideas the Memphis city council comes up with...

Oh, say it ain't so... somebody else admitting their B series is in fact a truck instead of a showpiece... oh, the horror, oh, the humanity... Thank God... Looks great! I "foo foo canned" my 69 long bed back in early 2005, it's just about due for a touch up. 6 or 8 cans of Rustoleum Dark Hunter Green, which happens to make a pretty good British Racing Green substitute. Painting a 1963 motorcycle to match it, green and white (but the bike has gold metalflake vinyl kneepads, may paint up a matching helmet, trying to get on with the county mounties). There is a door skin warehouse west of I-5 right on the riverbank, you should try and get some of the packing material... luan, mahogany, teak... cheap.

Mine is an early production like yours, floor shifted fromn the factory. Later production 49 had a column shifter 3 speed (gag) and a t-handle parking brake mounted under the dash. Haven't driven mine since 1994, last time I tried to start it (2008 or so) I heard a bunch of rings go tinkiling into the oil pan. I'm building a later 230 to stab into place, running the stock 3 speed and stomp starter, with the current 218's flywheel. Almost at the point of saying to heck with it and stabbing in the 318/727 out of my 69 D100. The 69 is in dire "need" of a big block swap...