Scruffy49

That's how mine is, universal. And I found my original heater hose cast aluminum fitting that bolts on to the top of the pump. Much nicer than a pipe elbow and a couple of pipe plugs. So, guess i have a spare set up, thought I'd lost it so got a heater shut off valve for a big rig, solid brass, and a reducer fitting for the pump top. It's almost impossible to wear out a grease fitting equipped water pump, I only bought a replacement because one got dropped (cracked) and the other one has a bent shaft from loading the engine into my truck (come along up a set of boards). Kinda sucks, the one on the 218 was the original 1949 issue, the one on the 230 I have no idea.

Sept 14-21, right now there are a few bikes coming for the whole week. Not much in the way of responses from either Mopar board I belong to.

Trickle yes, flow rate like a modern vehicle, no. Even if the radiator is recored with a modern fin and tube versus the old style honeycomb core, you won't see a whole lot of coolant flow. Doesn't matter if the engine is an L4, L6, L-V8, or early OHV straight engine. The older blocks don't flow as high a volume of coolant as newer blocks. Like Tim said, the older designs tend to let the coolant heat soak in the block longer. It used to bug me with my V8-60 32 Victoria until I got used to it.

Hmm, how'd you get it titled as a 51? 48-50 cab, 48-50 front panel. Lot's of states would title left overs as the year they sold... Not picking, genuinely curious if you know the backstory on the truck. I had a 65 (build date was Jan 65, so it should have been a 65 model year) Mustang that was titled as a 66 for that reason.

Maybe. Some owners converted from the not always easy to find insert type to a spin on. So you could also have an HD1, HD2, HD3, Fram PH8A, Motorcraft FL-1, etc. Usually attached to the same location, or the frame rail, or the firewall. Merle's second pic could be a Fram -OR- a Purolator. Same basic canister, but the Purolator insert was better than the Fram one. Oh, and if the sock type filter is tight, you need a 1010, not a 1011. 1010 is the same insert without the added bulk of the cotton sock. They work exactly the same, by modern standards, either is a joke. It is not an element fault, the filter system on a bypass block is exceptionally inefficient.

Whatever color of Rustoleum is on clearance, you are going to have carpet or floor mats eventually anyway, right? Who cares what the paint color under them is... get it cheap, prep the metal right and lay it on there thick. Use old junk bolts in the seat hole threads so you don't have to chase them with a tap after you finish the paint work.

Hmm, both flatties died. But before the 218 had some rings break it ran like a well oiled sewing machine. Good oil pressure, great fuel economy for a fossilized P15 engine in a truck. No smoke, no bearing knock, really neat flame pattern coming out of the rotten exhaust pipe (rotted through where it bends under the firewall). I may junk the 230 and just rering the 218.

Starts at noon, ends around 7pm. Going to try to get over there, but, have to do a clutch job on one of the motorcycles today. If I go I'll get some photos. Memphis International Raceway, 1200-1900. Vehicle entry $30, spectators free. None of the fossils are running, let alone licensed, so it's free for me.

Anyone have a shot from the top, looking down on the armrests? I want to make a set in solid hardwood for my 49, need to know the size of the cutout. I can figure the rest w/o issue. The first set (oversized, intentionally) are delaminating, would prefer a stock sized, solid set.

Hmm, according to the 3 speed chart, I know why my truck's original engine grenaded back in the late 50s or early 60s... and why the replacement 218 sounds like it will explode at 50mph. Gotta love gearing that will let a half ton yank a house off its foundation, but not let the truck get out of its own way...

I had purchased a 21 circuit kit for my 49 from EZwiring. The kit is going in my Sweptline (69 half ton), the 49 is getting rewired one strand at a time in 12, 10, 8 and 6 gauge. You can buy everything but the 6 gauge at your local parts stores, but, forget Autozone and similar rip-offs for 8 gauge, they won't have it, hit NAPA or Carquest. I got the stranded 6 gauge as a left over from another project. My truck will be 12v, but I'm sticking with 6v wiring since I do have a perfectly good 6v generator. May go back to 6v since the 2 old transistor radios I have for the truck are factory dual voltage, open them up and trip a switch to go from 12v to 6v operation. Hmm, do I want AM mono, or AM/FM/SW mono...? Nice looking truck you've got there. A rewire, a bit of wax (that paint looks too decent to redo)...

Tim, WA apples are crap because the best of the crop is shipped to Europe and Asia. The domestic market gets grade B, except for WA, which gets grade C or D, anything worse than that goes to China and comes back as juice concentrate, applesauce, etc. Yep, you read that right, China. I've hauled countless reefer containers to the piers in Seattle and Tacoma with top quality apples, cherries and pears in them. And hauled many a dry box of supposed to be shipped refrigerated/frozen (in stainless or plastic drums) juice concentrate unlined mild steel drums from the piers to the various cold storage warehouses that dole them out to the juice makers. I won't touch apple products unless the fruit came from local trees. Oh, Tree Top is THE worst offender when it comes to crappy handling processes...

Drove the V8 69 all the way across from Seattle to Memphis. The PH came here via trailer behind a Uhaul truck. Neither will see the freeway again, 4 wheel manual drums, manual steeering, 4 corner leaf springs and Memphis area roads/traffic do not make a good combination. I don't even get my 4 cylinder Ranger out on the freeway if I can possibly avoid it. Tops out at 70, way too slow for the traffic flow. The 69 tops out at 55 or so, the PH is ready to explode at 50. Both trucks are being reworked to pull dual duty as self propelled farm stands or produce haulers for the farmers markets in the smaller towns around us. If i need to get out on the freeway, hauling pecans to the wholesaler or such, I'll take the 85 short wide C10. It's only a 4.3L V6 with a 3 speed slush-o-matic, but it has 2.?? rear gears. Slow to take off, phenomenal top end, and has knocked down mid to upper 20s mpg on long freeway runs.

Did you have that out and about in Lynden in 2010? At the golf "resort" by the border crossing? I swear I've seen that car before...

Osage oranges under or in the vehicle works sometimes, and other times the mice eat them. I was having a bad infestation with the 69 D100 until I rolled it away from the horse paddock. Seems a snake has taken up residence under it now, no more mice. The 49 has an open floor currently, but with no upholstery and no fresh wiring, I'm not overly concerned with it. Other than the mahogany wasps and baby copperhead that have taken up residence...

On the road I use a small floor jack. On the farm, I cheat, the "jack" will grab the entire bumber and clamp on...

Bumper brackets? Is mine the only one that the frame rails dipped and continued past the rear valance panel? My bumper is welded directly to the frame, hitch shelf is welded to the bumper, ball is welded to the hitch... Has been that way since long before I was born (1972) and the truck was retired before I turned 2 years old. Somewhere at my parents' house are pics of the truck taken in the 1950s with a stock trailer attached to it, so the bumper/hitch combo must have worked alright.

Interesting. I like it. 48-50 dash, later doors. I like the longer "step" the later doors have versus the short early doors. Much better tie in with the front fender crowns. Going to try and get the suspension lowered on mine by the end of June (painting the chassis at the same time adds a lot of hours).

Tire chock. Or better yet a linked together pair of them. You'll already be parking in gear, the chock is just added insurance. Most truck stops and big rig dealerships stock them. I even use them with my 5spd baby Ranger, the parking brakes are a farce and the transmission is more like a "transmissing" if the bed is downslope of the hood.

RV repair shops. Several manufacturers' Class A motorhomes into the 70s used Pilot House era headlight rings. I'm swiping the stainless set off our Ungers Coach to replace the mismatched stainless on one side chrome on the other set on my 49 B1B. If I could just harvest the 413-3/727 with trans mount parking brake at the same time...

Get the parts to run an S10/Camaro or Dakota/150/1500 5 speed. Will save you a lot of aggravation in the end. I seem to recall your truck has the jumbo wheel bolt pattern like a one ton, which pretty much negates a simple rear axle conversion to get the same effect.

One stop shopping for the 12 to 6 drop parts? Chev's of the 40s, Sacramento Vintage Ford, Speedway Motors, etc. Or pull the voltage reducer off the back of any 60s or 70s Ford or Dodge in the nearest junkyard. Take notes on what was hooked to what side of the unit and whether it had an ammeter, a voltmeter, or idiot lights. You need an all gauge version, but, if your engine is a stone stock 40s flattie, the temp and oil pressure are mechanical. I do have an electronic oil pressure sending unit and temperature sending unit in the late 50s 230, no idea if they work, will likely be replacing the gauges/sending units anyway.

12v Chevy truck "1 wire" alternator and the biggest 12v battery Walmart carries excluding trolling motor/RV deep cycle versions. The stock parts are "cute", and they do work, but if you break down in the backside of b.f.e. (or anywhere in Memphis) and you're running stock electrical parts, hope you made sure your AAA membership is paid up...

It will be a while. Has finally slowed down on the rain and gotten tolerably warm (heat index in Memphis is 94*F today, at the farm closer to 100*F). Any PH vehicle work here has come to a screeching halt. If I'm lucky I'll be able to sneak some time for it and rounding up the spare parts from the outbuildings. Sweptline has moved ahead of it on the priority list, since the 69 runs, has cattle racks I can hang produce shelves off and attach tarps to, just needs a simple rewire (have had the kit for 3 years and no time to install it)... And I need to ind an off farm part time job... ugh. I hate driving, I hate going to town, not to fond of the general public...

The nose seam welt looks like a huge panel gap. I had to literally pry the nose panel off my fenders, it was a tarred seam, not a welt. Double sided white walls would look better on it, but only with a lowering job and similar traditional kustom touches (visor, fog lights, spot lights, bumper over riders, etc). Mine has standard single side whites going on the factory rims, I like the look, and couldn't beat the price from a car side forum member. Then again, mine is also getting lowered, skirted, possibly visored, spotlights and foglights, fancy side rails... Something about a basic silver and black engine leaves me cold, especially in a truck with a screaming exterior color. And to cap it off, it has seat belts. Deal breaker for me, I'd have refused the vehicle if I had bid and won.