Scruffy49

Let me check the "junk bins", aka, garage, barn, etc. I know I've seen a couple short arm right side around here, along with a couple left side short and one long arm. We've been moving a lot of stuff around in the outbuildings, they're probably buried again.

My budget precludes a frame swap or 4x4 conversion. I've got a wrecked 92 Ranger long bed I'm harvesting most of my donor parts from. Rear axle, driveshaft will be shortened to fit, possibly ac/heat (may go in my 69 Sweptline with a worn out heater that is stuck on), possibly the seats, master cylinder, dome light, etc. No sense buying stuff when I can repurpose them from a "low" mileage parts junker. I suppose I could just swap the PH body onto my 85 C10 short wide, but... an anemic 4.3L V6 and 3 speed slush-o-matic isn't worth the headaches.

Not too bad. Forget Ranger and S10, the short bed standard cab Ranger has the correct wheelbase, but that's about it. You can harvest the rear axle from one and make it work, but it is a good bit narrower than the stock pre-8.75" rear axle. IFS? You've got 4 corner leaf springs already, throw in a transfer case and a CJ7 or better yet J-10 front/rear axle combo. Simple spring over conversion on the axles and it will be a nice truck. IFS takes all the fun out of it. If I didn't already have all the parts to turn my 49 3 window (standard cab) into a 50s kustom/lowrider, I'd be doing a 4x4 conversion. And may still when I get bored with the lowrider (already have a Cal style Super Beetle low low rotting away in the barn). Welcome to the forum. You and the boys should have a blast with it. And if you really want to run a 318, go wide block. Get a 54-56 frame and it basically drops right in. 1954 was available with a 241 V8, has the correct crossmembers and mounts already.

Bedliner spray, styrofoam board insulation, marine grade vinyl upholstery. If it works on my VW with a rotted out muffler, it will more than suffice in a PH. The floor of my 49 was covered with burlap sacks, cheap little woven rugs (think the loop kits that kids made pot holders out of), a layer of asbestos house siding shingles, and then a horse blanket. Worked pretty good, until it got soggy and the floor rotted.

If you really want to run the late model hot air choke, I'll swap my carb with that for your mechanical (cable) choke one... My hot air choke exhaust manifold is junk, and my 218 has a cable operated choke carb on it, plan is for a dual carb intake and headers (home built), so...

If the tire doesn't require a tube (like my 16" bias ply do), don't run one. Metal valve stems? Piece of cake. The tire and/or towing section at Advanced Auto usually has them, so does your local Harley Davidson dealership. Or any motorcycle shop that has a K&L Supply catalog. Big rig stems are way too long to work. Oh, WALMART has them too, you just need to specify ALL METAL, their house brand tire is USA made, and works pretty well. Run them on old Mopar and Ford rims on my late 50s or sometime in the 60s horse trailer. P215/70R15 on 4.5 or 5 inch wide rims.

Now I really wish I'd kept my 14F and 15R set when I moved... Convert to wheel studs and run them on the 49 with the factory caps. Oh well, I sold them cheap to an older friend for use on his Model A, he died a couple months later, I'm sure somebody got a smoking deal at his estate sale...

So you need a 72-? (whenever the Magnum replaced the LA318) 4x4 318/360 dipstick and tube. Autozone info:http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/1978-Dodge-W150-1-2-ton-P-U-4WD/Dipstick-Engine-Oil/_/N-ivhf7Z93ymx

My truck's steering wheel is far past the crack fill and repaint stage, it has bare metal showing through. 18" steering wheel cover from the local truck stop and it's back in business. Had an RV spec lace on cover, decided it was ugly, so went the tractor trailer route. If it's good enough for a Pete or a Freightshaker, it's good enough for "Grandpa's Old Truck". I think the cover was on sale for $12 or so.

Hmm, your truck is well within the cut off years for the event at my place... Might be the only running PH if you felt up to the drive. Mine is in pieces in the driveway, barn, garage, house... It's the "right" color... Looks like it's even the best cab style (3 window)... I might even kick in a set of patina'd mirrors as your prize. Lisa and I quit going to generic shows years ago. Between the check writers, the billet barges, the overpriced everything, the surf/50s "music", it just wasn't worth the headaches of trying to con one of the vintage cars, trucks or bikes into behaving long enough to get there and back w/o a ride on a tow truck.

If you aren't taking your car to a shop that handles antiques, it is worth the conversion. The tire monkeys generally have no idea that older Mopars have driver side reverse thread wheel fasteners. And you can tell them until you turn blue, they won't listen, until they have broken off several near impossible to replace reverse thread lug bolts. And if you somehow got the drums swapped side for side on one axle, it gets even more "entertaining"... Side benefits of the conversion? A whole lot easier to run an alloy wheel for the days when "stock won't do". Lose a fastener, ANY auto parts store has generic 1/2-20 lug nuts in open end plain steel or closed end chrome. Even Lowes, Home Depot, Tractor Supply and Ace Hardware carry lug nuts locally... Switching them out is cheap insurance.

I've got those same mirrors, but in "patina'd" black and aluminum with black cords. Nice photos.

Is there supposed to be a pad on the starter arm as well as on the stomper arm? And if so, what does it look like... mine is just a plain arm with a hole in it. It works, kinda sorta, but seems like it is missing something... that based on the corrosion/dirt/gunk build up has been gone for decades.

Check the driver side of the firewall, top corner under the "lip". My truck has a small tag there with the cab serial number, held on with 2 small Philips head screws. Same way the door opening tag is held on, screws, not rivets. What is/is not legal on ancient vehicles varies so widely that it is impossible to list. My trucks current engine is out of a 1948 Plymouth car. The replacement for that replacement, while out of a 56 or 57 Plymouth car, has an engine code of DZ (and nothing else)... And here in TN I can just fill out one form and pay my money to get it titled, some sort of affidavit. It's over 30 years old, so, they make it pretty easy. But I'll probably title and register it at my Mississippi address, the antique plate has a whole lot fewer use/modification restrictions... I've got a signed WA title for it, but, it was signed by my father as his father's estate executor. And that title is under the engine serial number (the engine that is being replaced), so... The TN or MS title will be under the truck's serial number. I never bothered to title it in WA in my name, too big a hassle.

Dates are finalized, Sept 14-21. Rosemark TN Open to Dodge/Plymouth trucks through end of model year 1971, plus Warlock, L'il Red Express and Dreamers. Cars through end of model year 1972. No dirt bikes, no modern sport bikes. No site costs to attend.

Correct, riveted. Angle grinder to get rid of the rivet heads, or drill them off and then use a punch to remove the rivet shanks. At least Pilot House trucks the drum is on top of the hub, my Sweptline the hub is over the drum... Convert the hubs to modern lug stud/nut while it is apart. Much more user friendly, especially if you don't run factory rims with locator peg holes. And it gets rid of the driver side being reverse threaded, so the apes on the impact guns won't break off a stud when they don't listen to you...

Fuse box and modern radio are visible, doesn't the glove box door open? And what is all the electrical mess next to the fuse box, a slant six spec electronic ignition or something? It's a decent enough looking truck, but the modern stuff really needed to be hidden a bit better. I plan on gutting the 6v heater and stuffing the 12v heat/ac from the Ranger in the old casing, run the ducting through the defroster outlets. I'm by no means a "it MUST be stone stock" type of owner (stock is boring, sorry), but come on... If you keep the flatty, at least try to make the peripherals look the part (except alternators, fly them proudly).

Cars are welcome too... the more the merrier.

I wish the Advanced nearest to me would handle anything prior to 1995. I've tried, they are too lazy to special order pretty much anything... $37 for something "crappa" (I really don't like NAPA) wants $80 for... Guess I'll switch which location I go to. Same exact parts, less than 1/2 the price... worth the 3 mile difference in travel.

First aid? I've got a .22 and a backhoe... I'm medic trained, my game keeper is a former corrections officer/cop, wife is a former vet tech (Bikers have more fun than people do...). Volunteer fire department is 3 miles up the road... Walmart is the easiest reference to look up on google maps or similar...

Longevity? GL4 or earlier 75W90. Easier shifting? Motor oil. Better fuel economy? ATF (modern light duty manual transmissions have used Dex 3 for the last couple decades... even in 4wd applications). If it was mine and I wanted it to last, I'd stick with gear oil or motor oil. Peeking into my truck top loader 3 speed with a bore scope showed it was pretty much pristine, and it has only ever had whatever gear oil was on sale added to it.

I'm 13 miles from the Walmart in Millington, 12 or so from the one in Covington. Brighton address, but a lot closer to Rosemark or Atoka. The guys from one of the bike boards want it to run for a week or so, one is coming from North Carolina, another from Los Angeles... Tipton Shelby line east of Highway 14.

3/4 ton is 5 on 5 inch wheel bolt spacing and has a longer wheelbase, 116" axle center to axle center. 1/2 ton is 5 on 4.5 inch bolt spacing and 108" from axle center to axle center. 16" wheels 1/2 ton, 15" wheels 3/4 ton. Other than that, pretty much the same truck. If the box has mini tubs over the wheels, it's a 3/4 ton. 1 ton had a different style wheel entirely. 1950 would be a B2C-116 if 3/4 ton, B2B-108 if half ton. T331 sounds like an engine code, lot of these were registered under the engine number over the years.

Haven't been on a pure dirt since leave after Navy Builder "A" School in 1995 before reporting to my battalion. Too many thorn trees for it on our TN place, too many restrictions on where/when and how the bike had to be licensed and set up when I was in WA.

Details? Looks an awful lot like a B1C-116 3/4 ton based on the roof truss spacing above the truck...