Tom Skinner

I know this sounds crazy. Wooden Clothes Pins work! The pincher kind - with the spring. L.O.L. Also when real hot - say upper 90's - floor the gas pedal to clear the carb for real hot starts.

Amen, Don is Right! My fondest memories are re-building Chrysler Flathead's back as far as 1974. Got Manual GO FOR IT! IT IS AN EXPERIENCE TO LIVE FOR! Go slow use good Tools (measuring, etc). You would probably do it for a Third of that quoted cost. Good Luck! Tom

Dodgeb4ya, Beautiful job you have going there! Tom

Gents, My question also is as Lloyd's above. Obviously PB Blaster, days before to remove it, then more PB to loosen it away. When putting back on maybe Teflon Tape on the Threads or Anti Seize compound on the Threads? I think if it is going to break - sometimes it is going to break - in other words - maybe it was just ready to go.

I know our Forum is primarily for repairs, however, Classic Car Magazine has two great article's on this Imperial now, that is why I was sharing it. Sometimes, a little inspiration helps a hobby also.

Here it is after they got it running out of an old garage on Long Island https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=10&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CEwQtwIwCWoVChMI66LtrfHVxgIVyls-Ch3ajwPI&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DCH-LE398Zi0&ei=uYSiVaviLcq3-QHan47ADA&usg=AFQjCNEzw81xZA0dr30BmXgelCFh088trw&sig2=VlY-ZDurBtB8IhpS2fiCLA

Here is the Link for the 1937 Imperial Walter Chrysler had built for Della in 1937. If this doesn't work just google Mrs. Chrysler's Chrysler. Or You Tube it. Cutomized Imperial with lots of fancy extras. Interesting!

Napa on line ships to your address

I used new, but kept the old and cleaned them up. Maybe I'll change them out again some day.

NAPA @ $30

Transmission Selenoid Switch Fuse Good? Connections Clean and Tight? Wires to and from Selenoid Switch to, Transmission Governor, Interuptor Switch, etc. Good Transmission Fluid Full and Clean? (Pressure in Transmission must reach about 40/PSI for shifting to occur) Engine Idle Low? (Around 450-500/RPM) Service Manual Trouble Shoot Guide will uncover the problem. Follow the Directions down the List one by one and Test each Item until you prevail. Sometimes Governor Points are Dirty, slow Shifting as well. Good Luck! Tom

popped, not pooped, or peeped L.O.L.

It looks like an under the dash (brake Light) Left side, or Map Light (right side). It pops straight down and out with the coaxing of a screw driver (Flat) and a little cussing. The bulb will change (slight twist - counterclockwise out) much like a directional bulb or Brake Light Bulb. Sometimes you can just reach up under the dash and pop the socket straight up and out and change the bulb. Also sometimes the unit is screwed in from the top. Changing just the bulb doesn't require removing the housing. Tom

All these Old Flat Heads smoke a little out the Filler Tube when you turn them off - fact of Life. They didn't exactly build engines to real close tolerances back then. Back in the day they did the same thing. Fully aspirated means fully aspirated. They Breathe - Vintage MOPAR

Todd, I meant to say polarize the Generator/Voltage Regulator - Not the battery. L.O.L. Tom

Nick, A great Trouble Shooters Guide (Book) Is called: "Automotive Trouble Shooting For WW2 Wheeled Vehicles Volume 1" edited by Robert Notman, Contact: notmanr7@comcast.net It tells you how to test Coils, Condensers, polarize a battery, problems with battery cables, etc. (Also what I just described - Static Timing). The Dynamic Timing (with a Timing Light while engine is running) etc. I believe I paid @ $33 which included S&H about 7-8 years ago for this little jewel of a book @105 Pages of pure good sense. No Bull _ _ _ _ it was originally released around WW2 when books didn't have "filler" to make their Authors look so damned smart chasing big bucks like today. I once borrowed my brother in Laws Engineering Technical Math Book Copyright 1959 (200 pages) It explained clearly what my Tech Math Book could not Copyright 1990 (950 pages). All the Latter Author's educated smarts couldn't explain clearly in 950 pages what an Author 31 years prior could explain clearly in 200 pages. That's when I noticed some people are so smart they are stupid. Just like today everyone is smarter than me. I rather enjoy being ignorant, it does have it advantages. L.O.L. Tom

Nick, Have you static timed the engine (that is to say timed the Engine while it is not running)? Get Cylinder #1 Piston to T.D.C. (Top Dead Center) turn on the ignition key. Loosen the Distributor Bolt/Clamp. Remove the Coil Wire from the Center of the Distributor Cap/Tower and hold it about 1/4" or so away from a clean ground on the block (Say a Clean Head Bolt). Slowly turn your Distributor in the opposite direction of what the rotation of your Rotor until a spark jumps the gap from the Coil Wire to the ground. Re-Bolt/Clamp your distributor bolt. Turn your ignition off. You should be able to start the engine at this point unless something else is amiss. Tom Skinner Huntersville, North Carolina

Andy Bernbaum, or Gary Roberts prices are much better than even ebay or the $167 set shown above. Ebay is like $124 (same set as above). Andy or Gary have the same set for $100 $109 range It pays to shop around.

Ricky, I looked in my Parts Book 1942-1948 Chryslers and didn't come up with any information. That plug does look like it is for a 1929 Plymouth. I know the Champion J8 is compatible with your 1940 Royal. They sell conversion charts on ebay, and I looked through some of them for you. You can "enlarge the view" with the little magnifying glass at the bottom of the charts. There was even a L designation on one chart but they were for Imperial Eights. Good Luck! Tom

Ron, try: www.acewichita.com They have one for a 1936 Airflow. I have spoken with the man in the past. He really knows his stuff - top flight work - rebuilds Good Luck! Tom

The biggest kick I get out of this hobby is: Setting the Points, and Setting the Timing, Static and then startng the Engine, checking the Dwell with a Tack and Dwell Meter Setting the Dynamic Timing with a Timing Light, and then using a Vacumn Gauge to set the Carburator. You might as well stick to new vehicles if your not able to do these things. Now I realize (as I get older) age, or health may prevent these tasks, however, if that's not the case then QUIT BEING A GIRL and just pull up your panties and tune her up. hei hei hei L.O.L. Now don't get sensitive on me, I am just joking around. Tom Skinner Huntersville, North Carolina

Ralph, I am not sure I would know what to do with all them thar Lectrical tools. We don't even know how to read here in North Carolina. They are sure nice though. Copacohmeter huh? That's a big word like mayonaise We can't even spell W down here. Lets see dubbayou? Thank you for everyone's help. This is sure a Great Forum. I learn something just about everyday on here. Tom Skinner

Ok, Results in. The Ohm Meter/Voltmeter confirmed that not only was my condenser bad, but dead as a door nail. With the new one in the timing mark holds steady with the timing light, and I have much better pick-up/acceleration. I am sort of an idiot for changing the cap and rotor then the plugs, then the condenser. Back in the 70's when I was a poorer youngster I would have automatically replaced the condenser first - it being the cheapest part to try first. Oh well one good thing about getting old is you relearn everything you forgot. L.O.L. I pitched the old one into the round file from my work bench. Tom

OK, I went to Youtube and watched them load one up with voltage using an Ohm setting, then switch to a DC setting and unload it. When it doesn't do this it is no longer working. I will try it tomorrow using my Simpson Tube Ohm/Volt Meter, and then try it again using a cheapo digitial one. I'll post my results tomorrow night.

My Points were not burnt. I tried loading it up and got a tiny spark (Red) from it but no crack or blue flame discharge. I have the old condenser sitting on the bench, wondering whether to just throw it out. They are rather cheap to replace