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About Blaine

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  • Location
    San Antonio, TX
  • Interests
    Automotive, Mevhanics and Electronics
  • My Project Cars
    1949 Plymouth Club Coupe - Flat 6

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  1. Hello Everyone, I have recently put new gaskets on my 218's head and intake/exhaust manifolds. This fixed my vacuum leaks but my Carter W-1 (converted to an electric choke) is now dumping a ton of fuel at idle! I can adjust the idle mixture screw all the way in or out with no help. The throttle plate is set flush with the throttle body and is accurate to the rebuild kit and such. To include the float, accelerator pump and the needle and seat. The idle screw is backed all the way out and no linkage issues are present. The W-1 carb came off a 300 ci ford engine (came with the car) and I believe the carb is just too big in the idle circuit or I'm just missing something. The engine hardly idles correctly and runs extremely rich and dumps fuel out the exhaust with black soot on the ground. I can see the ventury and emulsion tube dripping fuel when giving the throttle and not at idle but when I look down the barrel I can see the idle circuit discharge slot flowing ALOT of fuel. Did I miss something when adjusting the carb? To include I have the old hot air port sealed with a vacuum port cap. The car will overcome the rich mixture at above 4000 rpm but that's not good and way too high for driving or desire to run the engine at. Should I get another carb even though ibrebuilt this one? I'd like to keep the price down below $200 and retain an electric choke setup as I don't have a hot air tube for a stock style choke system. Any help would be greatly appreciated guys! -Blaine
  2. I can also agree with you Blueskull88 about being a diverse car guy, if it moves with an engine I like it! Many on this forum appreciate and have an eye for the heritage and history these cars bring (not saying you don't though). If I was in your shoes and looking to make this a one-of-a-kind project, I'd go the fuel injected route. Especially if the car needs a lot of work. If it doesn't and has many original parts and is a fairly good condition then I'd personally work to get it back to close as stock with your own spin off complementing your budget. In the end it not only showcases you as a car guru, but also brings the heart of many to that era to enjoy what it was to own that era specific vehicle. On the other hand if I'm guessing correctly without any pictures I too would like to find a builder and fuel inject it! Personally I'd go the route of a 5.3 turbo Vortec engine. Many block in the yards and plenty of aftermarket goodies to get you well over the horsepower ($3,000 for 1,200HP) for you try and steer in a straight line. These cars are good platforms to muscle up, but going to a car show and seeing the same engine (SBC or variances there of) in everyone else's ride detracts me to do the same. It's your car, enjoy it!, and post pics of the fun!
  3. I'd suspect a worn rod bearing or wrist pin being that your noise is present a lower RPMs and comes in when off of load. Also the build up of oil pressure from a lower pressure into a normal operating range is suspect of parts out of clearance. I would check with what weight oil your using and add what greater weight of oil you can safely run in your temperature region to assist in taking up the greater clearances. The safest way is to drop the oil pan and break out the feeler gauge and manual. (just my 2 cents to start off on)
  4. Cars are looking good Gents! I'm liking the Desoto's roof rack and "bomber" style hints here and there.
  5. BTW, thank you to everyone who has served in the military to make your/our country a better place. Coming from more of the youthful perspective attending this site, what you've done in deeply respected and gratefully appreciated! RAH!
  6. Politics in the military are still in full effect but people these days are not so blatant to express their devious ways. You only find out after the fact most of the time now-days. I'd rather be in the position of finding out later on than being the man with a secret. People are out trying to make crazy money and do crazy (usually illegal) things to get there. I'll pass and just stay in my garage with my car and plan my next build. The military of today is so competitive it'll drive you to choose family or work and the consequences can be harsh for either side and that's not even including the real military life of deployment. I've unfortunately experienced both and have chosen college and family as the pastime to carry me through to my full 20 and do what it takes to make my leaders mostly happy to get there. Hopefully commission some day and make it worth all the time put in.
  7. Hempster, Here's a few pictures of the overall look. Please let me know what you need in more detail and I'll see what I can get.
  8. I'm 28 my Wife is 27, we have two daughters 6 y/o and 3 y/o. We are happy to have our 49' Club Coupe and I intend on keeping it and eventually getting rid of my 2009 Kia Rio in the next 5 years, bringing on in a 57' Bel-Air as my Wife's daily (outside of her driving the 08' Enclave). I firmly believe we have enough old cars in the museums and the rest on the road are ours (including everyone else) to enjoy, drive and keep on the road. I'd like to keep my 49' fairly unmodified except for creature comforts and eventually after I retire form the Navy in 2029, that I'll hopefully get to grab a 40's to mid 50's Plymouth Business Coupe to make my hot rod daily. It will be in need of restoration as I do not want to tear up something close to excellence like many of us work hard to keep.
  9. Hempster, I'll be adding some pictures downloaded from my phone shortly. If you need any detailed specific pictures please do not hesitate to ask and i'll take pictures of what you need on what I have. The car is mostly stock from what I see and have experienced but I have changed a few things...i.e. stereo, speakers, center console, fuse box, plug wires, carb ect. I'll add that to an individual forum later.
  10. Jersey Herald, My 49' is the one with that weird bumper guard.
  11. Really nice and a great job! I need to do the same for the bottom portion of my rocker panels as well.
  12. It'll stay drum in the rear if it performs well up front. The search for an axle at the correct width and bolt pattern for the original wheels are going to be tough if not just completly one off custom for everything to fit right.
  13. Ooops just researched it! 10 lbs risdual valves are for drum to compensate for the spring.
  14. Is ten in the rear for disc or drum set up? I intend on keeping the drums in the rear until I find an axle that'll have disc or convert easily to one. So will that 10 lb inline for the rear be similar or the same of what the M/C had for lbs internally for the rear drums? Thanks PA so far for the good info.
  15. Greetings Everyone, I'm in the process of building my Scarebird front drum to disc conversion kit. In doing so I'd like to use my original M/C as my 49' just doesn't seem to have room for an aftermarket power booster mounted next to the frame and it has wierd angles at the fire wall for a more modern style power booster to be tough to mount. To keep things simple I'd like to use the manual original style M/C but have concerns about if the original style M/C has residual valves inside it's assymbly. I've heard residual vavles are a no no for disc drums and only good for drum type set ups. I expect to also use rubber style hose fittings at the calipers for the front as this supposidly allows the release of braking pressure from the pads. Does anyone know if the guts of these manual M/C have residual valves?, and if so do I just unscrew the large flat bolt at the brake line out portion of the M/C to get to these? I recieve a comment when emailing the Scarebird LLC team and they stated as long as I remove the gront proportioning valves from the M/C I'd be good to go. I just never heard of the proportioning valves residing inside the M/C and only rarely seen them on cars to which they where installed along the line of the brake line near the drum. Thanks Guys! Blaine
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