Desotodav

The truck looks pretty solid Pete. It appears to be a 53 model as it has the split windscreen and the later dash with Lucas electrics - would have been factory built with 12v system. I don't know what that steering wheel is off, and I have never seen the leaf springs setup like that! Did you happen to get any other parts with the truck as I see that it is missing a few items (running boards, bumper, wiper arm, badges, hood handles, windows etc.)? I have Paul at Vinwire... http://www.vinwire.com.au/ ... do my wiring, but I see that his prices have increased somewhat over the past few years. I'll be seeing him in Toowoomba next weekend and will chat to him about my next wiring harness for my 53 coupe truck (should be the same as the one you need). Drop me a message when you start getting into the build and I'll see if I can point you to some contacts for parts etc here in Oz.

You see them pop up on Ebay from time to time. They are usually not cheap though - stainless steel ones are considerably more expensive than the normal steel ones.

Welcome aboard Dan, and congratulations on the purchase of your nice looking truck! I helped a fella to locate (and buy) a 37 Dodge truck here in Oz recently. The truck needed a bit of work but he's almost finished now. Maybe a picture of his truck can provide you inspiration?...

Good health wishes to you Frank. I had 2 unexplained Afib incidents last year and the specialist can't tell me where they came from. I was a real mess with the first one with a heart rate of 211 and I had to have a paddle shock, but I was a little better on the second one (177 beats per minute) and they quickly brought my beat back with 2 tablets. I passed the stress test on the treadmill with flying colors and have proved "very fit" in all tests and ECG's since then. I found that it took a week or so to build my energy back up, so you may be best to take it easy for a week or two. They joys of getting older hey!

Welcome aboard AussiePete. Always good to see fellow Aussie's here. Utilizing the 'search' function should provide you with advice on adding photos here. Now that you are one of us... be sure to add your name to the Member's map (in the top tool bar towards the center of your screen).

I have removed quite a few engines from trucks and have always found it easier to do it with the transmission detached. You will need to attach the bell housing to the engine as it houses the rear engine mounts, and then the transmission can be easily pushed in from the rear.

Check out this one on Ebay.. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1953-1954-1955-1956-Dodge-truck-clutch-fork-collar-/272092779039?hash=item3f59fe521f:g:lHkAAOSwbqpT3dve ... you might find that he has the half moon key if you ask him?

Well done Tim. You're making good progress. I can see that delivery van is just getting in your way though - better shove it in a container and send it over here to me

Your truck is a earlier model than mine, but I can tell you that the later model trucks had the speedo cable come through the firewall where the floor panel meets the bottom edge firewall panel & towards the centre of the cab. Best not to have any sharp bends in that cable!

So you got it registered Ryan? Looks very clean and tidy. Well done my friend! I'll have to hit you up for a ride next time I'm down that way (maybe late Feb early March 2016 at this stage).

I just had this funny photo emailed to me... Time for another beer!

That's why Doctor Tim (48D) hosts those therapy sessions (he calls it a BBQ) isn't it? I can honestly say that I haven't bought another truck since I was at the BBQ in 2014. Maybe I'm cured?... but I think not!

My initial thought was the same as GTK as to whether you have a sync or crash box. How much free travel do you have in your clutch pedal? Your case could just simply be a matter of adjusting your pedal at the 'collar 6-45-3'.

I use the same method as Merle. Has worked fine for me to date.

Welcome to the forum Daniel. It might be better if you post on the truck side of the forum ('Mopar Flathead Truck Forum') as not all of the truck owners venture over here to the car side. When you do get to the truck side, be sure to post some photos of your truck there - we like photos !! Check out the thread on door seals at the following link as it contains some good information... http://p15-d24.com/topic/38658-door-seal-adhesive/page-2?hl=+door%20+weather%20+strip . There is a search button to the top right of your forum screen - this proves most helpful when looking for information on specific items. You might try Roberts or Steele Rubber for the rubber seals as they seem to be the best suppliers over your way.

We talked about them a while back and I attached a photo to the thread... http://p15-d24.com/topic/25662-square-washers/?hl=%2Bsquare+%2Block+%2Bwasher#entry254377

I think it best that you buy another truck Brent and just install those parts on that truck rather than putting them into storage

I had a shop do mine. They spun it up in a lathe and added the weights where needed..

If you are removing the tailshaft... there should be an arrow on the front end of the shaft which lines the shaft up with the arrow on the yoke. Would be best to re-install it in the right position. Depending how far you want to go... you may want to consider checking the balance of the tailshaft as well (while you have it off).

I've my blue 52 truck with 16 inch wheels and 4.1 diff ratio up to 75 mph. It felt like it still had a little more to go, but that was fast enough for me! I suppose that it will do it a little easier when I change the 4.1 diff center over to the 3.54 center I have in the shed! I've already had a 3.54 diff installed in the 53 coupe truck, so look forward to getting it on the road (next year?).

How cool is that truck... that patina is almost as good as on Paul's 'El-scorcho' truck

Does it look like the one in the attached photo Stan? If so, that's called an 'vent division bar L-shaped fuzzy' and I got mine for the truck from Andy Bernbaum. Try maybe? item A-381 under the 'weatherstripping' tab on the Bernbaum website for your car.

They should lift high enough Ralph. The headlight adjusters have a brass fitting which fits into a slot in the headlight bucket (see photo). I agree with Greg that you should check that the brass fitting (and also the recessed part near the head of the bolt) are sitting in their correct places and are not just spinning when you turn the bolt. Not sure whether you had a manual so I've also attached the relevant pages...

Great videos of the old DD. Sure is good to see her on the road again. Have you tried a spring from the throttle linkage to the inner guard?... that fixed the same issue for me in the52 truck. We have discussed them a few times on the forum - see photo from Hank at post #9 on this thread... http://p15-d24.com/topic/28496-accelerator-return-spring/?hl=%2Bthrottle+%2Blinkage+%2Bspring#entry284580 . I don't think that I have any of those springs left, otherwise I would send you one. I seem to recall reading somewhere that the sticking throttle issue you mention may have had something to do with a sticking plunger, so I suppose that you could try pulling the top of the carby and removing/soaking the plunger in some oil?

what are you saying RKC... that he should send it over here to the 'land down under' ? Good find Earl. Who'd have thought hey!