Ivan_B

I was under impression that those valve stem covers were purely for aesthetic purposes... Unless you use a tube with an incorrect type valve stem ?

I think we all understand your point, here, and thank you for letting us know about this unpleasant occasion. Let's give the TS the benefit of the doubt, and assume that he did not reply for a good reason. If anything, it will make ourselves feel better, wouldn't it? I have a 2-door sedan, a very nice car! As you know: gentleman said - gentleman did. But I am afraid that these are usually two different gentlemen ? I have also been cheated (or it was attempted) several times, and specifically on auto forums (not this one). So anything can happen, you just need to be cautious about the things you do. Hope for the best, but do not expect anything so you don't get disappointed later on.

Do you still have the OEM cloth-insulated wiring? If so, It could still be +ground. If it was rewired, at some point, chances are it could've been switched to -ground. Otherwise, check the ammeter operation and the wiring against the OEM diagram, as Tod suggested. For the dim headlights, you might want to clean and lubricate your switch inside. At least check whether or not the switch or the wiring gets hot during operation, you don't want that.

Bob, this thread is over two month old, Mike probably figured-out everything a long time ago. I just lifted it up to mention that I resolved my fuel gauge issue by reversing the cables in the trunk, in case anyone is also getting incorrect readings and is running out of gas all of a sudden ?

Just discovered that my sending unit was hooked-up the wrong way around. The more I drove, the more full the tank became ?

Lloyd, that would've been my next alternative proposition, as well I am still curious if you can reuse the old sleeve, though. Try to heat it with a household propane torch and then grab it with a glove or something soft. I suspect it will slide right off. That reminds me of a wheel bearing sleeve, on a RWD axle, I once changed. You were supposed to heat it up to glowing red, then quickly drop it over the axle and hammer it down with a 5-feet pipe... Very exciting garage performance, I tell you what ?

Are you able to reuse the old nut and sleeve? If the sleeve would not compress onto a new copper line, you can probably solder it on. A layer of soft fresh solder would probably also help to seal the resulting connection when you put it back into the gauge. I do not believe that a half-done double flare, inverted the wrong way, really qualifies as a bubble flare. Would not use that on my brakes ?

It looks like a standard canister with a cap. Can you pull the cap of the can to confirm? Maybe the pipe channel inside broke off or something... These filters cans are available on e-Bay, if necessary. Here is a sealed one, for reference:

So, the two small terminals on top are button (battery) and ground? I would expect that the solenoid would just be grounded to the engine, but well... In this case, we can now test the solenoid to see whether or not it clicks when the power is supplied. How about the large terminals? The right one goes to battery; how about the left one? Looks like it's grounded and, unless the starter itself is insulated, that's probably not where the solenoid transfers battery power to. How about the farther away one, visible on the left? Is it part of the same terminal? Or is the whole left terminal insulated from the starter/body, and that's where the power is transferred, so by jumping two large terminals we can test the starter? ? ? push buttons are not cool, the pedal is probably more reliable. Besides, I know of at least one story where some hooligans broke into an old car but could not take it for a joy ride because they did not know how to start it ?

I concur, no need to drain antifreeze, it's not like you'll extend its service life if you store it in a jug after being used.

I've read-up on different AF types, a while ago. If I recall correctly, the conclusion was that you can use anything as long as you change it as directed, and as long as it is compatible with your block/radiator/seals material. For example, the pink European G12 will probably work fine, but it is expensive and probably unnecessary if the regular green coolant will work just as well for the specified time period. I have green in the car right now, and am planning to keep it Also, the concentrated coolant + distilled water from the grocery store is usually cheaper than the 50/50 mix.

I believe that the current issue in this thread is that our Canadian fellow mailed a part to TS in UK, a while ago. Then asked for $5 as a compensation for postage and never heard back ?

Actually, to do that, you would need to run it for quite some time. It even says so in the original driver's manual, with illustrations, that if you use it for short trips in cold weather, condensation might form a layer of water at the sump and clog the oil pick-up. I never run stored engines in cold weather, might spin them with the starter to push the oil around, unless it was properly winterized, etc.

Can you, maybe, take a picture of yours, illustrating what wires are connected where for testing? I don't think it is very clear based upon the description (sorry, which one is right in AU?). We don't want the TS to fry anything, at this point ? Based on John's description, the solenoid gets 6 volts to both small contact on the solenoid (I think) and it doesn't do nothing. Which small contact is the button, and what the other one is for? Do you connect the two large nuts together when you want to bypass the solenoid, or is the other large nut for the ground strap? How would you hot-wire the starter to see if it works, on this one?

What are you planning to start it for, just to circulate oil around, or are you planning to do repairs and test the engine? If testing - you should fill it, if running for more than a few seconds. If circulating the oil - you should not run it

I think I've seen that stuff at Home Depot. Did not get it, because it needs to be washed off afterwards; this is not suitable for many applications.

John, I would try to find-out what your starter setup came from (if it is not original to the car) and then look at the wiring diagram first. The solenoid on top of the starter should be similar to what Greg posted. This is just a large relay which connects the battery cable to the starter when you use it. So if you manually connect the two large contacts of the solenoid, the starter should spin (if it is working), I think. Just make sure that the other nut is not a ground. In which case, you definitely do not want to connect it with the first one Are there any part numbers on the solenoid/starter which might help identifying it? My car has manual starter pedal, so I cannot tell you specifically how this one is supposed to work. If there is no click, then I suspect that the solenoid is not working or is not wired correctly. Also, if you can pull the starter off the car, take the solenoid cover off (to see the insides) we can tell you exactly which wires to connect to test both the solenoid and the starter ?

Some of the questions/tips are being asked/offered multiple times, already. The starter with solenoid is visible on the pics in the first message. His solenoid is a tiny bit more complicated with a safety wire, or what not

These are just the usual little car "mysteries", nothing extraordinary about them; usually explained by the laws of physics and thickness of one's fingers ? For example, I dropped a screw into the engine bay, the other day, and could not find where it went. Ordered a flexible magnet but still could not find it. The thing just disappeared. Then, being a practical DIY'er, I dropped an approximately the same screw from an approximately the same location to see where it goes. On the third attempt, it bounced of the engine block and landed inside the frame rail, on the opposite side to where it was dropped from. Found my missing screw in there as well. I like them carbs with a sight-glass in the bowl. I might even put one into the B&B when I have nothing else to do

Unless someone already messed them up, since the car is currently not running and at least one wire is cut ? I'd recommend checking the firing order and correct connection anyway, in this particular case.

What are you talking about? Is it leaking again? ?

Good. You might also want to get a cheap digital multi-meter, for all the electrical stuff, if you don't have one.

I would start with a generic auto-store set, then, something like this. Before visiting the store, measure your existing wires (approximately) to make sure that the new ones are not too short. Or, you can even get a single wire, for a couple of bucks, just for testing. Did you guys get a set of jack-stands, etc.? I do not recall from the previous threads... That would certainly be more important than getting the new wires, if you are on a budget.

Which-ever you can find in your local parts store, that says "fuel resistant", like this.

I was just attempting to post your photo here ? If the button is the same, then we need to undo the nut at the back. Also, you can probably look-up the wiring diagram for 41 Windsor, for your electrical problem.