Ivan_B

You need to take a look... Most likely source of leak at the rear of the engine is the crank seal. But it could also be leaking from elsewhere, and flowing down the metal shields toward the back. Could be a transmission leak as well.

Can you see exactly where it is leaking from? Did you use some pipe tape in the adapter threads? ?

Yes, and make sure not to loose any balls, put things on the right way the first time, and use correct tools (no hammer no epoxy) ?

You sure did, and not so long ago, too:

Okay, since you have the same Carter I do, you either still have the fuel level way to high, so that it is getting into the accelerator lever opening, or you have a crack in the lever channel or the bowl, somewhere. Check both carefully. I am not seeing any other way for the fuel to get up there. For the carb heat insulating spacers - yes, these are available, but mostly for newer cars. I think Sniper found this one: https://scoutparts.com/1BBL_Carburetor_Base_Gasket_with_Heat_Shield_Isolator_860449R1_Scout_80_Scout_800/p13375 Supposedly, it will insulate both the carb base itself and the bowl. I have seen thick plastic insulators for just the carb base, too. You might just get some generic carb insulating material and cut your own. Just make sure that the main channel is exactly inline with the carb and the manifold.

Where is it dripping from, again? If the fuel is coming out of where it is not supposed to - something isn't right. Is it dripping down the manifold after a drive? With the fuel at 1/2 of the bowl capacity, it should not be leaking from anywhere.

Are you overflowing? Check the float, level, seat and needle. I've just had these issues, turned out my seat was full of debris. Are you using a 160 thermostat? I am on the stock 180, and it runs about 190-200 on hot days, while the manual says that "overheating" is specifically 212 and above ?

A bit of an off-topic: I just ran out of fuel myself, yesterday... Exactly the way we discussed in this thread... ? Finally fixed the leaking carb and was driving around the neighborhood for testing. Noticed hesitation while accelerating in 2nd, a couple of times. Then the car died in driveway, while I was parking it, and would not restart. I've done the usual troubleshooting, and figured it was percolated. Waited till this morning - still no go. Then, remembered this thread, knocked on the tank: empty. What a lame problem to have ? I need to check my fuel gauge, it is still showing full tank.

@soth122003 you mean someone tightened the seat too much and damaged the threads in the side of the bowl? That will explain the leaking, even if everything else is working properly. You should be able to re-thread it to a larger size. An alternative would be to use a copper pipe insert. You'll probably need an expensive tap, etc., to do this, though. So it might just be easier/cheaper/faster to get another carb/bowl.

If it was not getting enough fuel, I'd expect the engine to start stuttering. Ever drove on an empty tank? ?

Here is some good brief info on spark heat range: https://us.gsparkplug.com/shop/spark-plug-heat-range? Should not affect the engine temperature, unless your sparks are too hot and you are pre-igniting. I do not believe that mixing different plugs is a good idea; the same is true for using incorrect length, resistor, etc. If the cylinders are running unevenly, as previously mentioned, the ignition system (and then the engine mechanics) should probably be inspected to ensure proper operation.

I think you'll need a re-boring machine for this one ?

Thanks Sniper!

Yep, that's the one. There are some options on eBay, etc. I think the ceramic sponge would be more durable since you can clean it (versus replacing the paper elements, which you can get who knows where, these days).

Don't push your luck, on that one ?

I have a metal line in between, so sourcing a proper OEM-style filter will take some time (I want a carter sponge, with a glass bowl). I just plugged a temporary filter between the body and the fuel pump, hopefully that will help for now. A bit later: what do you know, it ain't leaking anymore ?

Well, I think I've found the source of the leak. No wonder it would not seal properly, the seat is filled with curly-string soft shavings of some sort. Can't believe I did not check that right away and waited a week for the new carb kit to arrive. I am off to the store to get a temporary inline filter, to stick into the rubber hose before the fuel pump. I'll deal with this properly a bit later. Hopefully, these shavings are not from the pump, though ?

I am still using the old one. Yours is also just a rubber gasket, isn't it? You can just cut it out from the regular gasket material of appropriate thickness.

For next time, could be more convenient to slap a set of flippers on it. If they get dirty, you just throw them away ? @andyd I must've seen those coupe pictures in at least ~10 different topics, already. Give it up, you've sold it, it's time to let go ?

If the clutch is slipping, I suspect that the TS would notice it ain't driving right ? He already checked the fluid drive liquid, too. The engine loosing power and not pulling up well in high gear sounds possible. Besides what others suggested, check that your throttle down the carb opens all the way while the pedal is pressed.

It depends. Nothing personal, it is just business. Their point of view is probably something like: "we are in the business of selling tires to make money, so if the potential reputation damage from x unhappy customers is less than the cost of remedying the applicable issues, we are not going to do anything". There are known cases where some auto manufacturers did not tell people about things like a brake cylinder defect, rendering them inoperable, assessing the potential lawsuits settlement damages to be less than the cost of the nation-wide recall. Without knowing their specific policies, the fact that they agreed to warranty these is somewhat unusual, in my opinion. I would've expected that visual imperfections like these are probably treated as acceptable by the manufacturer. I am a consumer myself, don't get me wrong here, but I would probably not be too much upset about something like this. Your opinion could be different, of course, so go for it. I suspect that they will agree to replace these under warranty but, at the same time, kindly advise you that they are very sorry but according to their standard policy you'll be responsible for all the associated expenses. In response, you'll probably decide not to proceed with the warranty claim, because it is not cost-effective from your perspective, since the tires probably still perform as they should. I'll be really surprised if they cover anything else but the tires themselves. Otherwise, I'll definitely buy my next set of tires from them In any event, let me know how it works out.

That looks like molecular diffusion to me. You can try rubbing it, to see if it improves a bit, but do not be too aggressive, it is possible to wipe-off the white wall, as far as I know. Have you already tried some white-wall cleaners from the auto store? When you claim warranty, the customer is usually responsible for all shipping and installation costs. The manufacturer always tries to warrant their liability to the cost of the product itself, especially when the issues are only aesthetic or performance-related.

For the clutch, you can just check if you can rotate the disk by hand when the pedal is pressed down.

Your linkage must be in great shape, then. Otherwise, if you attempt to shift "on the same side" it is easier to miss the right gear as opposed to shifting from the opposite side.

If this is a regular three speed, then I believe that the above advice was meant to shift into reverse through the third. The same goes for the first, shift second then first. The physics behind this is that is is supposed to slow down the transfer shaft, or something like that. You can also try the gear-clutch-neutral-clutch-gear method to see if it works for your box. Both first and reverse gears are not synchronized. How bad it grinds would probably depend upon your gears' shape and driving conditions. If that sounds like too much trouble, the older cars did not have synchros for any gears, so you had to catch-a-tooth with the engine in order to shift at all