Ivan_B

Either new ones, or the old ones. The rubber seal is what does all of the hydraulic work. The piston just keeps it in place and a firm shape, it is not quite the same as the ones in the engine. This thread must've collected a record amount of replies in one day I am not personally familiar with the "subject" matter, but i do "like" those people in the business of making favors so much! They are only rarely surpassed by folks in the business of big favors... Always surprises me how do you stay profitable with this kind of attitude.

It always made me sad to see a car on the yard in better condition than the one I drove in ? Looks like a good place... Did I saw a Minnesota tag in there?

Good story. Should've just replaced the battery before the trip, in the comfort of your home. No need for taking chances and an extra stress later on Did you put in some new bright bulbs into the instruments? Seem a bit unnaturally bright. As for the radio, etc., this sounds like a perfect case to install a battery disconnect, especially if the car is in storage most of the time.

Sorry. Had not see the whole car, of course, but by the look of those floors this car will probably need everything. It is rather unlikely to be a quick fix to drive around. Reminds me of my first truly antique project 58 Cadillac, a while ago. Came from southern MN, you betcha... ? The car was in extremely poor shape, but I did not know how to tell it at the time. Rockers and everything were gone, the frame was flaking, I did manage to get it running, fairly quickly... And then had to sell it for unrelated reasons. And I sure am very glad I did. We live and learn You can fix virtually anything, don't get me wrong here. Whether or not it will be worth your time and effort is for you to decide.

This is extreme ? Minnesota, in general, is probably not a good place to buy classic cars (unless they were garaged 100% of winters, or were originally from a different state). Minnesotans buy their cars from the south... How much is shipping to Hawaii going to be? Are you sure it is going to be worthwhile to fix that, rather than saving some money for one in good condition to begin with? This is a parts donor (maybe). Unless this particular car is rare, or has unique sentimental value to you, I would not touch it

How does it sound at 70-90? I would think this to be more appropriate speed. Take the right lane and take your time. That's what I usually do

There is nothing on the island, this is probably the only 48 Plymouth as well ? $400 for a drum? Is it gold-plated? Shop around, old NOS parts and aftermarket alternatives are still available. Look on Facebook and Craigslist, many sellers will ship if you ask them nicely, or there are people on this very forum who'll probably buy stuff locally and forward it to you. In general, however, the more complete/stock/working the car is, the better off you are (unless you are really into never-ending-projects, that is)

Looks good! You did not oil it yet, did you? ? For the vapor problem, have you already confirmed that it runs well with a little starting fluid?

Lots of interesting points discussed in this thread, here are a couple more: - Ignition temperature of generic gasoline is listed at 495-535F (depending upon the source, and I did not check myself), the temperature of the exhaust manifold is listed way over the place, but several sources say 400-500F, I suspect that we would generally be a few degrees short of igniting spilled fuel (especially with a low compression engine), so I would probably be more concerned about a stray ignition spark, rather than the manifold below the carb. I've also never heard about melting a plastic filter under the hood. It should obviously not be touching the engine, though. - Injector hoses are not necessary for a low pressure carburetor system. If the new hose fits tightly, it will hold even without a clamp (although, you do need one because rubber gets old and looses its useful physical properties). They do not look authentic, the OEM wire clamps don't fit, etc. I prefer to use low pressure hoses (often available at motorcycle stores). If they crack, this probably indicates that the rubber is not good, or not rated for automotive application. - Classic style bowl fuel filter should be sitting vertically, with the bowl pointing down. The bowl collects the dirt, water, and everything else you don't want going up the line. Some older filters with a metal mesh filtering element even had a drain plug at the bottom. Commercial trucks still use them, I believe. You unscrew the plug, and all the dirt, condensed water, rust, comes out. Once you see clear gas, you close the drain and carry on. - @Dodgeb4ya, you should clean your air filter ?

If the mirror is gone, you should generally toss it. It's not like these are not available anymore (are they?). Each cylinder has a specific OEM tolerance range, which you should normally be able to look up. The proper way to check the cylinder is with a bore gauge micrometer.

For the dash indicator, I am pretty sure that you should also be using an LED of appropriate specs. My flasher came with a little diagram indicating how the pilot light should be connected. For the wiring, make sure that the flasher is wired correctly. It might not work if you simply install LED bulbs and plug in the new flasher instead of the old one.

Any brand is fine, as long as it is specifically rated for applications involving contact with gasoline If I remember correctly, there are also some glue/sealants available for gas tank repairs, etc. But I would not use these, because you will eventually need to take the pump off the car, some time in the future. Also, an OEM-style gasket by itself should also do the job just fine, assuming that the contact surfaces on the pump and the block are still true. I do prefer to dress-up all of my gaskets, however, so I understand the concern for extra protection ? Just don't forget to carefully wipe the gasket and both mating surfaces with alcohol beforehand, otherwise, the sealant will be useless.

Just go to the applicable auto store section and get anything that says "fuel resistant" on it I personally prefer the non-hardening ones, I think Permatex gray or black, or something like that, came in a tiny tube at Autozone. later: probably this one.

Just the stock one? eBay. I guess most folks these day do not recognize the hand signals anymore and think you are just friendly (or weird) ?

I also though that a proper flasher is all you need. But integrating LEDs into a stock system could be a challenge. I am just adding flashers in from scratch (the car had none, originally) so all I need is the LEDs, flasher, 3-way toggle switch, 2-4 relays, and that's it, hoping to get to it next week

Hmmm, interesting idea. Do you have any specific points how you would go about this, without cutting the fender, etc.? I just have a small hole for the bulb, and there is not much space available behind the glass either. I could not really think of anything, except gluing a reflective film underneath the glass. ?

Sorry, I am not familiar with this specific carb, and I do not have a 48 manual handy, so let's wait for someone more knowledgeable to chime in. I suspect that this screw might be for the seasonal mixture adjustment (cold versus hot weather) so it might not be readily noticeable to you, while testing. Also, if you have not already done so, check out this thread: This was just resolved, similar symptoms (hesitated in high gear) and it turned-out to be ignition-related.

On a side note: once you get the new filter in there, make sure that the rubber gasket is properly positioned in the cap groove and doesn't get pushed inside the cup when you attempt to tighten the cap nut. Otherwise, you'll have fresh oil all over the place when you start the car. Don't ask me how I know ?

I have 6v LEDs installed, used this one for the tail lights (dual filament). You will also need a 6v LED flasher, as mentioned. Of course, wash the glass while you are in there

I would recommend going over the brakes in the following fashion: 1) Lift one wheel of the ground, ask an assistant to floor the pedal hard then release. Try to rotate the wheel by hand, in both directions, is the wheel properly releasing? There should not be any resistance, the wheel should spin freely once you get it going. Try this several times, to make sure that the brakes do not grab while the pedal is released. 2) Repeat p. 1 with all four wheels individually, to find the bad wheel/wheels. 3) Properly bleed the brakes (all wheels, in the correct order). If the above does not help, take the bad wheel/wheels off, inspect the drum, shoes, check if you can compress the slave cylinder with pliers (etc.). Also, if you have self-adjusting cylinders installed in there, by chance, do not attempt the pliers trick, it will not work

And that's exactly how it is supposed to be, good job. You do not even need to use choke when the weather is warm For the adjustment screw, are you referring to the idle mixer screw or the throttle? Throttle - screw goes in, raises the throttle, idle gets higher. Mixture - can go either way, depending upon the conditions. If the screws are not responding, there could be something wrong with the carb assembly. I once had a carb where the DIY fix of the accelerator pump, by previous owner, prevented the throttle from closing all the way, so the idle screw was not responsive at all because the fuel was already going through the main jet circuit on idle. So, the engine does not have higher RPMs? Both, while in motion and on idle, or only in motion (under load)? Were higher RPMs fine before you fixed the carb? Does your throttle open all the way, when you push the gas pedal to the floor? Happened to me once ?

That's bad news, but that's the risk we take using old parts, etc.

Should not matter, you are probably not using so much fuel at once to empty the bowl, anyway. So, when the car dies, can you quickly pull the carb top to verify that there is gas in the carb? Once it dies, are you able to restart it? By itself or with starting fluid? If you have gas & air, move on to the ignition Also, is it cranking good when hot?

About the synchros: there is also a specified gap range between the syncho and the applicable gear it is sitting on. Make sure that yours is within specs. Some synchros must be grinded down at the base to sit properly, otherwise, the cone will not make the right friction

Did they use different bearing numbers back then? I was under impression that a 209 bearing was a 209 bearing for ever and ever ? I suppose I just haven't yet worked on an older piece of equipment where the bearing number engraved on the side was not available in today's catalog... What numbers do you have in your parts list book? Does Google give you any cross-reference specs?