Ivan_B

That's true, if you are just interested in the original look, you can just buy a broken radio and install a modern player inside.

Did the guy gutted the entire radio and placed a BT player with 2 speakers inside the box? This is barbaric... For me, the point of having an old radio is to actually listen to the old radio. This is why I am specifically suggesting to use an AM transmitter, to transmit what ever you want into your old radio. If you do not actually intend to use the old radio, you can just install whatever into the box, or under the dash/seat at you wish. Do not even need to mess around with the existing radio at all Also, I couldn't help but noticing that the author did not heat-shrink any of his crimp connectors, somehow ?

Could be the case but not necessarily. I've seen some questionable work on my car, after the PO had it serviced by some "classic" mechanic, too. In this case, the mechanic should've done all of the things already suggested in this thread... Taking off the manifold makes no sense, unless there is a dead rat inside and the tail is sticking out of the carb, or something like that... I am afraid that if you want to own an older car, these days, you need to learn to do all the basic maintenance yourself.

In this case, I seriously doubt it's the clutch or anything drive-train-related, because it takes very little force for the engine to rotate just one rear wheel... Does it rew the same with and without load? Are you able to hook-up a tachometer to it, to see what RPMs you are actually getting?

Thanks, I've looked for these but they are wrong color. Mine were supposed to be ivory (I don't get it, by the way, all of the knobs/buttons in the car were ivory but the steering wheel and shifter knob are brown, for some reason ?). There is also a 3D model available for sale, which you can print and polish, but these are a very simple square profile with a metal casing. So I think it will be much easier (and cheaper) to fabricate these myself. I'll show the results once I get around to it. AM is fine, you can just get a small transmitter and have what ever broadcasting right into your radio (even another radio signal, if you wish). These transmitters were selling since the 60s, I believe, once the stations started switching to FM and some older radios were becoming incompatible.

I would go to a different mechanic ? Does it work if you gravity-feed it from a water bottle? That, alone, eliminates any of the fuel-system issues (unless the carb is messed-up, of course). So, the car would rew, but just would not get up to speed under load, right? How about this for a test: if you set it on a dyno (or just lift off the rear) are you able to push the speedometer where you need it?

Yes, that's exactly my plan as well. My radio is working, although the buttons have completely deteriorated. I'll need to get those replaced (just need to find some suitable color plastic, or maybe even use light-colored oiled wood to make it fancy) and give it a general cleaning and check-up. The radio is already sitting on the garage table, waiting for its turn, after I get a couple more important issues off the to-do list

My mounting holes are currently in the middle position, if I recall correctly. I might want to start with moving those. Thanks.

eBay is also a good place to check. By the way, are you sure you need one? Th OEM one is not going to tune into any stations either, unless to install an AM transmitter with it

Are you talking about the shoe return spring (usually one or 2 at each drum)? Have you tried e-bay for a used one?

I am not tall, probably the new average 5'9". The problem, I believe, is that there is not enough room between the seat bottom and the door frame for my 11-size shoe, with a moderately pointy nose to fit through with a reasonable extra space, in the parallel to the car position. So it is all about the shoe size. I watched my feet carefully getting in - they are naturally at an angle, and fit through just fine. When I am exiting, however, i cannot place my feet at the same angle because it does not bent that way into the opposite direction ? So, if I literally back out of the car (turning the body the same way as when I was getting in) it works just fine. But this is weird.

Hi everyone. I am having a constant problem kicking the "kick" panel with my foot, each time I get out of the car. The panel also show sings of wear, to I am definitely not the first driver to do so ? The seat is all the way to the back, right now. And I believe that I've assembled the slides properly, after I took them apart for cleaning. At this time, the distance between the seat bottom and the door frame is about the same (front and back). This is a 2-door P10 sedan; looking at other 2-doors on the internet - the seat appears to be positioned the same. Which makes sense, so that people can get in both ways - front and back. Is anyone experiencing similar issues? I've noticed that this is only happening while I am getting out of the car, but not on the way in. So, I figured that if I get out of the car the same way I get in (back out of it, so to speak) then it works fine. No way that this was expected by the manufacturer, though, was it? ?

Car is located in NH, but is listed in (and is probably priced for) CA ? Don't even get me started on antique car prices and other listing contents. I'll just say that there are plenty of ridiculous things going on. I am very glad I found my Plymouth so that I don't have to deal with all of this anymore. Just a few days ago, I incidentally opened the Marketplace, and it still showed me some of the previously viewed car ads, still for sale, still overpriced, still rusting in someone's yard full of trash...

You know, this is probably not your case but I've recently encountered some issues on acceleration, after fixing my leaking carb (and replacing the air filter). The car would stumble up the hill in 2nd. I spent hours thinking what have I done different since the last time it was running fine, but could not identify the issue. Luckily, I noticed that a crimped cable between the coil and the distributor had a somewhat loose contact at the connector. Soldered the crimp together (the way it should be done - problem solved. So, you might want to check all your ignition-related wiring ?

That is true, however, for "stock" I actually meant not restored. Sorry, should've been more clear

If the car is truly all stock, I would seriously advise to keep it that way. Isn't it funny how mostly everyone is looking for a stock un-customized car, and then wants to customize it? Nothing brings the value of a classic car down like a poor custom mode ?

You need to take a look... Most likely source of leak at the rear of the engine is the crank seal. But it could also be leaking from elsewhere, and flowing down the metal shields toward the back. Could be a transmission leak as well.

Can you see exactly where it is leaking from? Did you use some pipe tape in the adapter threads? ?

Yes, and make sure not to loose any balls, put things on the right way the first time, and use correct tools (no hammer no epoxy) ?

You sure did, and not so long ago, too:

Okay, since you have the same Carter I do, you either still have the fuel level way to high, so that it is getting into the accelerator lever opening, or you have a crack in the lever channel or the bowl, somewhere. Check both carefully. I am not seeing any other way for the fuel to get up there. For the carb heat insulating spacers - yes, these are available, but mostly for newer cars. I think Sniper found this one: https://scoutparts.com/1BBL_Carburetor_Base_Gasket_with_Heat_Shield_Isolator_860449R1_Scout_80_Scout_800/p13375 Supposedly, it will insulate both the carb base itself and the bowl. I have seen thick plastic insulators for just the carb base, too. You might just get some generic carb insulating material and cut your own. Just make sure that the main channel is exactly inline with the carb and the manifold.

Where is it dripping from, again? If the fuel is coming out of where it is not supposed to - something isn't right. Is it dripping down the manifold after a drive? With the fuel at 1/2 of the bowl capacity, it should not be leaking from anywhere.

Are you overflowing? Check the float, level, seat and needle. I've just had these issues, turned out my seat was full of debris. Are you using a 160 thermostat? I am on the stock 180, and it runs about 190-200 on hot days, while the manual says that "overheating" is specifically 212 and above ?

A bit of an off-topic: I just ran out of fuel myself, yesterday... Exactly the way we discussed in this thread... ? Finally fixed the leaking carb and was driving around the neighborhood for testing. Noticed hesitation while accelerating in 2nd, a couple of times. Then the car died in driveway, while I was parking it, and would not restart. I've done the usual troubleshooting, and figured it was percolated. Waited till this morning - still no go. Then, remembered this thread, knocked on the tank: empty. What a lame problem to have ? I need to check my fuel gauge, it is still showing full tank.

@soth122003 you mean someone tightened the seat too much and damaged the threads in the side of the bowl? That will explain the leaking, even if everything else is working properly. You should be able to re-thread it to a larger size. An alternative would be to use a copper pipe insert. You'll probably need an expensive tap, etc., to do this, though. So it might just be easier/cheaper/faster to get another carb/bowl.