Ivan_B

You'll get it, eventually. Just bear with us, here You did not need to order the indicator, unless you work with ignition issues frequently, you could've just done a quick spare plug test. Do not hold it with you bare hands, though, just attach the plug so its base is grounded to the engine, and see how the spark fires. You can even bend the side contact 1/8-2/8 away from the center electrode to see if the spark will go that far.

Oh, it's just this simple thing: https://www.amazon.com/Deal】OriGlam-Adjustable-Ignition-Circuit-Diagnostic/dp/B06X9RC3PF/ref=sr_1_6?hvadid=409940613264&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9011574&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=10617054610227163456&hvtargid=kwd-951276676&hydadcr=24658_11410762&keywords=spark+plug+tester&qid=1689100930&sr=8-6 "Real men" just hold a spare plug next to the block, with their bare hands, you know... ? You connect it instead one of the plugs and ask someone to crank the engine to see how strong and large the spark is. For the modern 12v engines you should see a long and blue spark. Not sure about these older 6v systems, but is is probably the same. If the spark is yellow or does not fly very far - this could indicate an issue. BTW, since we are talking about spark, there are also see-thorough plugs available for the engine itself. It allows you to see inside the combustion chamber and adjust the carb ail/fuel ratio based upon the color of the burning fuel. I need to get myself one of these...

You'll probably get better results (from 10 feet away) cleaning, filling, and wrapping it in chrome film instead

Yes, of course. There could also be a break in one of the wires, which is shorting to your hand when you get too close. As suggested, looking at the operating system in the dark should demonstrate where the problem is. Also, don't recall if you've tested this or not, but the car would not rev in 3-4, right? How about the low gear or idle? Are you able to obtain the maximum driving speed (per the user's manual) in first? Okay, this makes sense. But we've probably already checked the spark quality with an indicator, right??

Don't forget those bumpers and other chrome (on both sides)

Guys, why are we still troubleshooting the ignition if the car runs okay on idle/slow speeds? How much do you think an incorrect ignition timing, etc., will mess things up at higher RPMs? Did you actually take the carb off the car and completely gone over it? Are you able to obtain a spare carb for testing purposes? Does not even have to be the same, just close-enough for this engine... Just put it on and see if it makes a difference. You've also mentioned that you need to use starting fluid, at times. This only further points toward the fuel/air issue, in my opinion. For the hot cable, remove/clean/lubricate the battery/alternator contacts if you have not already done so.

Good job! You didn't replace the tank due to the car not running, did you? ?

What the hell is that... Not going to google it, before bed, sorry ?

I would think that this is mainly useful for 2-cycle engines, etc., to avoid mixing custom gas/oil fuel. Not sure how beneficial this would be for a regular 4 cycle engine. In general, I believe that oil getting into the combustion chamber (like when you get a leaking valve stem) is not good

Oh, this is worse than I though, there is barely any coating to preserve Maybe you can first try to lightly buff it with the same oil, using one of those polishing rubber disks, or what ever these are made from? At least, that will save some remaining paint/primer. I am just afraid that if you start sanding, you'll hit bare metal in the matter of seconds... Also, I would recommend using anti-corrosion oil everywhere on the inside (assuming you'll eventually put some interior in it). I've just used Rust Cure Formula 3000 inside my car, while I had the interior refreshed. Have nothing to compare it with, really, but it seems to work well.

If you are planning to oil it, you probably do not need to sand it. Sanding will remove plenty of old coating and likely make the "patina" look way different from what it is right now. I would just oil everything to stop rust. Reapplying it is easy-enough, just like using quick wax, when needed. Also, do you have some pictures of what you are working with? Those "patina" clear-coat paints you've seen on the internet are not a real patina/rust but a special paint imitating that look (at least when done professionally) ?

This does look like a vacuum line. "Temp. sensor" from eBay is way off, there is no coolant between the carb and the intake. As for the water injection - the hole would be way too large, in my opinion. There were different ways to add water into the ignition chamber, but it must be diffused like the fuel/air mixture. Could this be for a "performance" vacuum gauge? ? Later: found it - https://www.mamotorworks.com/vw/product/vw-1950-1979-top-engine-cylinder-lubricator-oiler-kit-by-ampco-319334 What kind of car did you get, again? ?

Thanks!

Thank you for the clarification. Do you know where it is located? Is it inside the filter canister or somewhere in/next to the bottom line fitting on the engine's side? If the valve blocks the return, then my overflowing filter does not prove it is working so I need to inspect it as well. Yes, the return pipe has just a couple of small holes at ~3/4 up to the top. I suppose I can just let is sit overnight to drain the excess into the block and then remove the lines, hoping that the oil will stay

It sure is! You can also buy/borrow the flaring tool and cut your own lines exactly to OEM specs

+1 for cutting the lines and redoing everything properly. Chances are, these old lines will not seal properly anyway, and you'll have to gorilla-tighten the same nuts trying to make it work when you put it back together. Use some copper/graphite grease on the new nuts, for next time

Oh, that might actually be the issue. I've noticed that the leaking fitting appeared not threaded all the way in. I attempted to undo and redo it, but it did not thread any further. So, if my oil filter overflowed through the cap, that probably means that the bypass valve is working correctly? In this case, I'll have to drain the filter and take a look at those lines. I've repaired poorly sealing brake lines using a soft aluminum or copper washers before

Hello everyone! I have an orange-body-black-cap FRAM bypass oil filter canister installed on my 201'. Finally started driving the car, a couple days ago, and noticed that the bottom (return) line appears to be leaking at the engine side. The leak is so bad that I can see the oil dripping 1.5-2 drips per second after a drive ? I just changed the oil and mismanaged the large rubber filter cap gasket, so the entire cap overflowed all over the engine and it took me a while to realize that it is actually leaking oil on its own, besides the huge spill. I am glad I did not drive very far ? Is this a simple fix of repairing/replacing the line, or a sign of potential issue elsewhere? I've read that there is supposed to be a bypass valve that cuts off the filter somewhere in there. Could it be not functioning properly? The oil pressure stays at a steady ~40 at the gauge. Thanks.

That's a very useful tool. I use a little hand suction pump, though. Or just gravity-bleed it, when time permits and the master is located above the slaves.

I would recommend taping up a piece of appropriately-sized cardboard to the car, to drive around the block and see how you like that. Seriously. Might save some time and money if you decide that this is not right for you

Good job On another down-side, these cars have sort of small windows. With the visor, you will never see the stop lights, overhead signs, and even some traffic in mountain areas.

@Cannuck You are probably right. There was mice in the car (I found hidden acorns all over the place, and a small hole leading into the back of the front seat, indicating a small rodent). There was also plenty of cotton in odd places. I thought this cotton was from the seats, but could not find the source, until I realized that it came from the headliner. There are also small claw marks between the sun visors... I saved all the cotton, maybe I'll put it back one day ? Actually, the car does not smell that bad (after I cleaned and covered mostly everything up) anymore. I am mostly smelling the new carpet now If the naughty smell comes back, I'll try to gas it up with some organic neutralizing chemicals (forget the name of that stuff).

Just curious, how did you do that, wrote a letter to Chrysler? Would you kindly share the contact? I was only potentially able to find-out the original owner's name and town by the radio warranty tag.

Oh, sure! Bring it in, no guarantees as to how it will look, though ? And the interior is 95% done. I am still debating whether or not I should install carpet corners at the back bottom of the seat (how it used to be) or just cover the old one with cloth. Also, had to temporarily put cardboard on the floors while I am looking for appropriate rubber mat material. Drove the car around the neighborhood, yesterday, what a feeling! ?

I've just installed one of these, putting my box together No extra parts, sorry, but just a thought: can't you just put a regular coil spring between the door and the dash, similar to how the hood spring works? I've done this to fix a gas cap flap, on a random car, once. Worked perfectly and took 5 seconds to do. Do you have those little rubber bushings in the corners of the box opening? How about you put a small coil spring on that?