DJ194950

They are only sure that they do Not have or have not had your cat because they now raise their own herd of prime specimens! Enjoy your meal! DJ

https://www.ebay.com/i/191800180184?chn=ps One company that sells 6 volt radiator fans. NOT just on Ebay though. Several models I see 6 volt. This company seems to have a good rep on their products. Recently installed a 16" 2000+ cfm fan of theirs on the front on a 12 volt 1947 Plymouth bus. cpe. A bit noisy when running at idle hot but the fan has a thermostatic adjustable temp switch and only runs for about 15-20 seconds before shutting down when at hot temp idle. Should not even run when at most driving speeds= no HP loss. Just a thought, no other experience with these or the company. DJ

Your choice. Do your own thing -you own it and will drive it. I t is your time and expense so get 'er done! DJ

only 2 pictures I could find. Not sure these will help, but I tried. DJ

Does that not make all the neighbors/stray dogs want to go do the marking there also? Bad deal! DJ

Even here in No. Cal. my friend found out rather quickly- build as big as possible within your max budget- insulate to the max (he did and very glad)- Plumb the stubs into the concrete slabs for bathroom setup( cheap at this point,expensive later if you or next owner wants this) -pour concrete deep enough for a good car/truck lift (not a cheapy!). Looks like a beautiful location! Best to you, DJ

4th-thru 5th. try will seem easier ??. Sorry not trying to have fun at your beautiful engine expense! Love it! It will be worth it in the end! Best to you, you Will get it done. DJ

Sorry I was having issues for some reason for getting the link on the forum reply but I Thought I had figured it out. Search- vintagepowerwagon.com , then go to online catalog-then to engine parts---the filters are on page one under that heading I believe. Sorry bout that, Good luck with the quest! DJ

For a good used oil filter for Mopar flat 6's check this out. $35 for the filter housing and brackets, $12 for the filter elements. Vintage_Power_Wagons_Parts_Catalog-Group_01_Engine.pdf - Google Drive.html

Check this company for car motor and military parts crossover. They specialize in military Mopar vehicle parts-I have read many times how helpful they have been in the past. Many parts are the same but I cannot be totally specific. A free? phone call to see if they will help you out considering the pricing challenges for US parts to Europe. DJ https://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/

Ya need some sand bags in the back. It breaks traction to easily and may be dangerous!! DJ

He may smoke only his self grown -I do not know, but I bet he only smokes the Low emissions type! No smog test needed! DJ

I bought a can of the Dupli-Color Chrysler red motor paint at my local Napa store about 3 years ago. DJ

You may want to pay an independent vin verifier in your area. This is One company that does this. They can also do the complete Ca. DMV process for you and get your title Without ever you going to a dmv office. Last I looked 2-300 bucks but often worth the trouble! One Co.... http://www.asapvehicleverifiers.com/VV2LocationsServed.html Good luck, DJ

This is the filter I used with a add on filter mount (similar to bones44) on a bracket mounted in a position like the early mounts were off the rear motor head bolts, driver side. Lines like stock per arrows on the new mount. This filter as you can see is made for by-pass oil filtration. Many industrial motors used this by the aftermarket machinery with Mopar flat 6's. mopar bypass filter-wix 51050 oic.bmp

Attempting to post frame specs from repair manual I mentioned. DJ Seems that I can still do scans even though the printer to cop[y is not working on my printer, hope this can help some!

Good expensive paint for cars not from a spray can?? Helps to have some experience with these. Merry Christmas Paul, DJ

Anyone have a problem with a spin-on type filter made for by-pass oil filtration type motors?? Using a aftermarket mount in the stock/aftermarket position hooked up the same as stock with a spin-on filter made for that purpose is readily available at Napa and other larger parts sellers. Has been covered in the past forum posts as well, search the same "spin on oil filter" or just "spin on" should get the info you seek with filter #'s. DJ. Merry Christmas to all!!

She wanted jewelry for Christmas? Just explain this is antique jewelry! Worth a try? Merry Christmas to all!! The reason for the season. DJ

There is a reprinted Mopar repair manual for 1946-1950 Plymouth cars (originally printed 1950) that has frame specs done with drawings of all mouthing points for motor and original transmission with measurements for frame straightening etc. of the 1946 thru 1950 per model/years. Your fame appears to be cut up some for a different motor/transmission. Also the driver side rear end kick up of the frame looks to have been replaced and is flattened out. I would post a picture or two of the mentioned frame pictures but my printer/scan machine decided it was tired and not working properly. Pretty sure others on this forum have the same repair manual and can look to the frame section and copy to the forum.for you. DJ

I used a universal rubber cowl seal. I got mine from soffseal.com which is similar to this picture I got from mac's antique auto parts online. The softseal catalog was a bit big and I did want to search it to far, but give you a idea of an automotive type stick on cowl seals out there.

Getting way too deep for me!!

Did he/she bring matches with it?? Feed the cat outside of the garage only! DJ

On my 50 4 dr. Ply. it was a Bit-ch to get the rear motor mounts replaced due the height of the new top rubber mounts. Finally ended up jacking the tranny up as high as I could, separated the washer attached to tubing by putting them in a vice and driving out with a punch the tube portions. Then I squeezed the top (tall) rubber between the bell housing mount and the support, drove the washer portion with punches and centered it all after forcing the replacement-new bolts in. Removed the steel portion washers from the old lower rubbers and installed on the new lowers . Installed lowers with rubbers from the bottom side for the support and torqued down to repair manual specs. They DO NOT get run down tight! Remember some about a washer going Under the left side between the support and bolt and nut? Maybe it was between the rubber mount and the support cross-member? I believe than this correct? Too long ago on that part of the repair (refer to manual) but never forget the install fight! Have fun? DJ

Paul, you talking rattle cans?? DJ